Members GibsonQC Posted February 11, 2006 Members Share Posted February 11, 2006 I know this question comes up a lot, but I'm getting a new nut for my LP. The Corian POS that's on there just doesn't do the trick. I'd like it to retain the "look" (off-white), if possible, and I just stumbled upon these "slip-stone" delrin nuts:http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/String_nuts/Slip-Stone_Nuts.html Has anyone used these? Otherwise, I think I'm going with Graphite. I am sick of tuning issues. I have had my stock nut properly set up, and it did help the tuning problems, but didn't completely fix them. My other guitar with a graphite nut has no problems, which is why I'm leaning in that direction. My other question is--does nut weight/density factor into the sound a lot? The graphite nut my tech handed me (what he's currently planning to install) was extremely light weight. Will this make a huge difference in tone? Or, will it only affect the sound on open strings? Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ramblin Posted February 11, 2006 Members Share Posted February 11, 2006 I know Brian Setzer uses the "delrin" nuts on his Gretches. I've heard good things 'bout them.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ancient Mariner Posted February 11, 2006 Members Share Posted February 11, 2006 I suspect you'll find Delrin and Corian are pretty much the same material with 2 different names. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DonK Posted February 11, 2006 Members Share Posted February 11, 2006 I'm facing the same decision on a parts Strat I'm putting together. I got a graphite nut, but I really don't like the look - black - though I can't find anything wrong with the material. I ordered vintage bone and Tusq nuts and am going to give those a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GibsonQC Posted February 12, 2006 Author Members Share Posted February 12, 2006 Originally posted by Ancient Mariner I suspect you'll find Delrin and Corian are pretty much the same material with 2 different names. The "Slip-Stone" nuts are supposedly made of Delrin and according to Stew-Mac are their most slippery (moreso than Graphite, being the implication). I can definitely say that Corian--the countertop material--has no slippery qualities whatsoever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cousin itt Posted February 12, 2006 Members Share Posted February 12, 2006 It's hard to beat bone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DonK Posted February 12, 2006 Members Share Posted February 12, 2006 Originally posted by GibsonQC The "Slip-Stone" nuts are supposedly made of Delrin and according to Stew-Mac are their most slippery (moreso than Graphite, being the implication). I can definitely say that Corian--the countertop material--has no slippery qualities whatsoever. Delrin is very slippery for sure. I've got tons of Delrin picks, they have an almost waxy feel. If slipper is what you want, then I'd say Delrin or bone - polished bone is very slick as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Brewski Posted February 12, 2006 Members Share Posted February 12, 2006 what's with you black nut haters? unless the neck has a maple fretboard or white/cream binding the black nut looks way better - the bone/white nut detracts from the overall look of the ebony/rosewood fretboard. I never had a black nut until this year and I plan on replacing all my guitars with them - especially since I now use graphite exclusively. However - at less than $4.00 each there's really no reason not to try the Delrin if you want the "classic" look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members _pete_ Posted February 12, 2006 Members Share Posted February 12, 2006 Honestly, I think the nut material has little or no effect on tone. As soon as you fret a note, the nut is taken out of the equation. Properly cut slots are much more important than what it's made of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 70 Cam Guy Posted February 12, 2006 Members Share Posted February 12, 2006 Originally posted by DonK Delrin is very slippery for sure. I've got tons of Delrin picks, they have an almost waxy feel. If slipper is what you want, then I'd say Delrin or bone - polished bone is very slick as well. Delrin is slippery and machines to a nice finish. We make white and black delrin parts for clients all the time If people want some slippery material for nuts, someone should try using PTFE (solid Teflon). That stuff feels like you're handling an oily block but it is completely clean. I just don't know if it's hard enough to be used as a nut. It's also white Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DonK Posted February 12, 2006 Members Share Posted February 12, 2006 Originally posted by Brewski what's with you black nut haters? unless the neck has a maple fretboard or white/cream binding the black nut looks way better - the bone/white nut detracts from the overall look of the ebony/rosewood fretboard. I never had a black nut until this year and I plan on replacing all my guitars with them - especially since I now use graphite exclusively. However - at less than $4.00 each there's really no reason not to try the Delrin if you want the "classic" look. I'm mostly a maple fretboard guy, so that's part of the reason. Plus, there's just something about white for me. On acoustic guitars, I have a tendency to dismiss the ones that have black or tortoise binding, gotta have white or ivoroid. I can't explain it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members pelskens Posted July 23, 2016 Members Share Posted July 23, 2016 I've found some Delrin blocks in my workshop that I used to make into Slip-stone nuts. If anyone is interested:https://reverb.com/item/2591011-delrin-slip-stone-nut-material-black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Grant Harding Posted July 23, 2016 Members Share Posted July 23, 2016 You're thinking of craigslist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members humbuckerstrat Posted July 23, 2016 Members Share Posted July 23, 2016 I like bone, great tone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members *BLEEP* Posted July 24, 2016 Members Share Posted July 24, 2016 GraphTech TUSQ http://www.graphtech.com/products/brands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DeepEnd Posted July 24, 2016 Members Share Posted July 24, 2016 GraphTech TUSQ http://www.graphtech.com/products/brands ^ +1. I'm a TUSQ guy too. I have aftermarket TUSQ nuts on my "good" acoustic (white) and my electric (black). My acoustic had an Ibanez "Ivorex II" nut that had string binding issues with certain types of strings and my electric had the slots too deep when I bought it. A pre-slotted TUSQ nut was a fairly simple DIY solution in each case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted July 24, 2016 Members Share Posted July 24, 2016 I favor brass nuts on my guitars. I've used all the other materials an you cant beat the twang and sustain it gives me.Its not the same as steel either. I've had steel roller nuts that have a cold sterile. They commonly use chrome coated brass for saddles in bridges because its a softer metal that has better tone. Plain brass is self lubricating as it wears too. You do have to cut them properly using nut files so there is no binding. The difference playing open chords is definitely noticeable. I found a vendor who sells brass strips the proper width for Strats/Tele's which I cut to size and grind down to the proper height.Finding brass nuts for an LP is a bit tougher but I've installed them before. My LP has a stock bone nut which sounds fine. I do like having some variety. I have no plans on changing it at this point and probably wont touch it until I need to re-fret that one. My EPI dot originally had some black plastic material, (not graphite). I tried one of those Earvana compensated nuts for a year or two, as I did on several other guitars. It helped put the instrument in tune with itself, but discovered it didn't sound right with guitars that had regular nuts. I eventually removed them all and put brass nuts on and never looked back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 I'm facing the same decision on a parts Strat I'm putting together. I got a graphite nut' date=' but I really don't like the look - black - though I can't find anything wrong with the material. I ordered vintage bone and Tusq nuts and am going to give those a try.[/quote'] I've got a black graphite nut on my Tele, and I don't care for the look either. My Strat has a bone nut and it stays in tune just as well as the Tele does. IMHO, it's less about the material and more about how well the nut is cut and shaped. Poorly cut slots will kill your tuning stability every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 I favor brass nuts on my guitars. I've used all the other materials an you cant beat the twang and sustain it gives me. I really like brass bridge saddles - especially on a Tele - but I've never had good luck with brass nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrbrown49 Posted July 25, 2016 Members Share Posted July 25, 2016 IMHO, it's less about the material and more about how well the nut is cut and shaped. Poorly cut slots will kill your tuning stability every time. I agree 100%. As long as the material is hard enough where the strings don't keep sinking in. I've seen that happen on cheap plastic nuts. Tusq is my go to material for most stuff. It's available in precut for for all the standard shapes, uncut blanks for the standard shapes, and available in large blanks. It also cuts easy and wears well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted July 25, 2016 Members Share Posted July 25, 2016 Like you said, its a matter of how its cut. They are the toughest to cut and get just right. If the cuts aren't rounded at the bottom of the slot or the angle is wrong they can produce buzz or sound thin. Quite forgiving when you cut them because they cut slowly. Once properly set they sound fantastic. If for some reason you cut too deep or need to refret, you can remove it and raise the nut. You don't usually get a plastic or bone nut out in one piece. I've reused brass nuts many times. If anything they do tarnish but a little steel wool and it shines back up nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 I agree 100%. As long as the material is hard enough where the strings don't keep sinking in. I've seen that happen on cheap plastic nuts. Tusq is my go to material for most stuff. It's available in precut for for all the standard shapes, uncut blanks for the standard shapes, and available in large blanks. It also cuts easy and wears well. I have a couple of guitars that came with Tusq nuts from the factory, and I've never had any problems with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted July 26, 2016 Members Share Posted July 26, 2016 Tusq can be cast to shape and cnc milled - that's why people like Taylor use it. I've used bone in everything I've ever built - if you request something else I'll do it for you but plain old cow bone is hard to beat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted July 26, 2016 Members Share Posted July 26, 2016 A couple of things for those of you who can hear the difference in different nut materials to remember - the nut is only in the picture when you play an open string - once you fret it it could be anything. Density and weight might make a difference, but if you want weight then put a c-clamp on your headstock. The function of the nut is to space the strings correctly, make them the correct height off the fretboard for both open and back fretted strings, and to let the string slip smoothly while tuning and possibly bending notes. And obviously, to look just right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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