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How much is a '68 Les Paul Deluxe Goldtop worth?


Norton666

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I negotiate for a living. Three fundamental rules:

 

1. Try not to make the first offer. Ask him for a number. If he gives you a range, you're not paying more than the bottom.

 

2. Aim reasonably high (or low in this case). If $2,000 seems to be the consensus, offer $1300. Not so low to insult, but now you have established a nice low floor for negotiations.

 

3. Don't accept his first offer too quickly. Even if he throws a really sweet number out (like say, $1400). If you leap across the table to shake on it, he will know he's "losing". But if you kick back, even for a few seconds to think it over, maybe even countering at $1350...then he feels like a master negotiator.

 

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

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It has been routered to accept humbuckers and it has Bartolini pups in it. Plays amazing, has a few bumps and bruises. There is a guy here in town looking to get rid of it , and I want it BAD. How much do you think I should offer him?

 

 

'68? Are you sure?

 

A '68 wouldn't say Deluxe. It would have a narrow headstock, one piece neck, no neck volute, solid-back, and no "made in USA" stamp. They would generally pull $4K-5K in good, stock condition because they lack most of the aesthetics of Norlin-era Gibsons normally considered negative. The regular Deluxe features all started in '69.

 

Serial numbers are really sketchy back then. To know a year, you really have to check out the features of the guitar, pot date codes, etc.

 

I ask because the value of a '68 is different than a '70 and much different than a '75-.

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an all original 68 is worth close to 6-7k from what i've seen. the routing definitely kills that.


offer him 2 grand - either he knows what it should be worth and says no or has no idea and you get a probably 4k LP for 2k.
:)

 

I agree, if it's a '68. If it's a '78 (for instance), he'll have overpaid by a grand.

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'68? Are you sure?


A '68 wouldn't say Deluxe. It would have a narrow headstock, one piece neck, no neck volute, solid-back, and no "made in USA" stamp. They would generally pull $4K-5K in good, stock condition because they lack most of the aesthetics of Norlin-era Gibsons normally considered negative. The regular Deluxe features all started in '69.


Serial numbers are really sketchy back then. To know a year, you really have to check out the features of the guitar, pot date codes, etc.


I ask because the value of a '68 is different than a '70 and much different than a '75-.

 

 

It has to be newer than a 68 then, because it definately has large headstock and all of the features of a deluxe. It has lots of finish wear, and the two things that jumped out at me were that the previous owner before him replace the stock tuners with $20 gold Ping tuners. The mounting screw holes didnt match up, so there are a bunch of holes on the back of the headstock, and the pickups are Bartolini pups, not the stock Gibbies. He does not have the original case. It is a very cool guitar , but it needs a new nut and a setup. Nothing major, but definately not a collectors piece. It has been played hard, so condition wise, it is probably a 5/10. I am going to talk to him tomorrow and figure something out. He is a really nice guy and I dont want him to feel like he got screwed over on the deal a year from now. Ill let you know what happens.

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It has to be newer than a 68 then, because it definately has large headstock and all of the features of a deluxe. It has lots of finish wear, and the two things that jumped out at me were that the previous owner before him replace the stock tuners with $20 gold Ping tuners. The mounting screw holes didnt match up, so there are a bunch of holes on the back of the headstock, and the pickups are Bartolini pups, not the stock Gibbies. He does not have the original case. It is a very cool guitar , but it needs a new nut and a setup. Nothing major, but definately not a collectors piece. It has been played hard, so condition wise, it is probably a 5/10. I am going to talk to him tomorrow and figure something out. He is a really nice guy and I dont want him to feel like he got screwed over on the deal a year from now. Ill let you know what happens.

 

 

I wouldn't pay more than $1200 for it, and would prefer to pay less. I still find stock, nice condition early '70's Deluxes for $1200-1400, though most I see are asking $1800-2000 these days (but they are sitting at those prices).

 

Someone had a nice '72 sunburst with a better than average top (looked 2-piece which isn't common) for sell on The Gear Page. It had a professional neck repair; that's a big repair but was otherwise in good shape and he wanted a very reasonable $1150 shipped for it.

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I negotiate for a living. Three fundamental rules:


1. Try not to make the first offer. Ask him for a number. If he gives you a range, you're not paying more than the bottom.


2. Aim reasonably high (or low in this case). If $2,000 seems to be the consensus, offer $1300. Not so low to insult, but now you have established a nice low floor for negotiations.


3. Don't accept his first offer too quickly. Even if he throws a really sweet number out (like say, $1400). If you leap across the table to shake on it, he will know he's "losing". But if you kick back, even for a few seconds to think it over, maybe even countering at $1350...then he feels like a master negotiator.


Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

 

I like these rules....any suggestions for getting the opponent to through a number out there first? Some people just won't give you anything to work with.....

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Actually, a nice 68 GT is worth $15k, sometimes more. Try to find out what year it is, because an actual 68 brings a premium even over a 69. If it's some 70's Norlin, then it's a $1500 guitar maybe. If it's a routed 68 (which it won't be), it would be worth 4, 5, maybe $6K+ especially if it has the original finish. Read the info in this Ebay ad for 69 info..

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140167583408&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=004

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I like these rules....any suggestions for getting the opponent to through a number out there first? Some people just won't give you anything to work with.....

 

 

One way to get the other side to make the first offer is to appeal to their ego - "You probably know more about these things than I do, what do you think its worth?"

 

Or you can make a "range" offer - but make sure the range is so wide it doesn't stick - "You know, I've seen these guitars go anywhere from $500 - $5000 dollars depending on condition, mods, feel, etc..."

 

Usually, these tactics get the other side to put a number out there.

 

Good luck!

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i have a mid-70s Deluxe - wine red that is original except the tuners, and been in my possession for the past 30 years. IF it checks out to be a '68 - that's one thing, and if you want a player, that's okay too.

 

If you are collecting - this is a bum deal at any price - collecting is about having original matching parts and routed out for normal size humbuckers KILLS that deal.

 

If it plays nice and you want it with the idea that it IS your main tool, go for it ... otherwise, pass. Moeny loser here for resale, period.

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