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  • a little help please, tru oil questions

    I am building a tele with a beautiful mohognoy body thats capped with a very nice piece of maple. the red top was tru oiled by the ebay seller who said it was ready for a clear coat. the problem is that it seems to have some small brush/rag places where it almost looks like "drip" marks.
    1. can I just add more tru oil then polish it smooth, then just leave it well sorta bare, or
    2. fine sand it smooth then put on a coat of clear, or
    3. just put the clear on it, and smooth finish the clear?

    thanks


    yes I know I haven't been around for a while but school is killing my time.
    BTW; I got "A"'s in my class, and I have till tomarrow when I start a new class. I do miss you all though
    5 STAR GENERAL OF THE SG ARMY
    http://acapella.harmony-central.com/....php?t=1232460
    "WE ROCK THE WORLD"

    great dealings with: jj pistols, Mr. goodbomb +1, splendor, puckman, mike fiasco +1, johnny z, minitruth, alley trash, teamodave, sxyryan, GUITAR HEEL, twisty571

    definition of expert= an "ex" is something that once was. a "spurt" is a drip under pressure


    the work begins again, the hope rise's a new,The dream lives on. E.M.Kennedy

  • #2
    no idea about the true oil but we miss you too LS!!!
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    • #3
      I've never used it - but tru-oil is not really an oil, it's more of a varnish.

      I researched this a bit, and I used Minwax wipe-on poly. It was easy to control, and I think you can avoid drips. Minwax also makes spray on Poly for a glossier finish.

      Good luck and hi to Aslan.

      - w
      __________________
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      Originally Posted by Bob411


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      Comment


      • #4
        I've never used it - but tru-oil is not really an oil, it's more of a varnish.

        I researched this a bit, and I used Minwax wipe-on poly. It was easy to control, and I think you can avoid drips. Minwax also makes spray on Poly for a glossier finish.

        Good luck and hi to Aslan.

        - w

        Uhm, no, Tru-oil IS an oil.

        it is a blend of linseed and "other" oils, but that is ALL it is, according to the ingredients on the bottle.

        It forms polymers when it cures and dries hard as a rock if you put it on in thin layers enabling it to cure properly, but it IS made up of oils. REAL oils. It IS oil.

        "You people keep on raining. I'll still be the parade." - Diamond Dave.



        TO HEAR MY COUNTRY BAND: ADRIAN RAY, click THIS or this


        Official endorsee of:Breedlove Guitars

        http://www.ghsstrings.com

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        http://www.monsterenergy.com/

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        Comment


        • #5
          I am building a tele with a beautiful mohognoy body thats capped with a very nice piece of maple. the red top was tru oiled by the ebay seller who said it was ready for a clear coat. the problem is that it seems to have some small brush/rag places where it almost looks like "drip" marks.
          1. can I just add more tru oil then polish it smooth, then just leave it well sorta bare, or
          2. fine sand it smooth then put on a coat of clear, or
          3. just put the clear on it, and smooth finish the clear?

          thanks


          yes I know I haven't been around for a while but school is killing my time.
          BTW; I got "A"'s in my class, and I have till tomarrow when I start a new class. I do miss you all though
          If the Tru oil finish is pure tru oil and has nothing on top of it, you can wet sand the drips or blemishes out of it as long as they are protrusions and not gouges. If they are gouges, you may not be able to sand deep enough before you cause a trench or a depression, ar sand through to wood, but you certaily could always lay more layers over any depressions and then sand that out.

          I would knock off any high spost with some fine grit sand paper, fill any low spots with the appropriate amount of THIN layes of truoil, allowing each layer to cure before adding the next, you MAY want to lightly sand with fine grit between layers, but personally I have never done that and never had a problem with one layer sticking to the next, and once you get enough layers built up to where everything is relatively smooyth and even, give a final sanding with finer and finer grit wet/dry paper to about 1500 grit, and then contnue on with something like Meguires scratch remover and then final polishing with some descent automotive polish, and continue till you get to your desired level of glossiness.

          Because Tru-oil dries hard, you can pretty much polish it as glossy as you want all the way up to a mirror finish.

          Alot of people like to wipe it on with rags or even their fingers, but I find the best way to get the smoothest finish without making a mess is to use cheap foam brushes you get in the piant department at places like Home Depot.

          It can also be thinned and sprayed on.

          "You people keep on raining. I'll still be the parade." - Diamond Dave.



          TO HEAR MY COUNTRY BAND: ADRIAN RAY, click THIS or this


          Official endorsee of:Breedlove Guitars

          http://www.ghsstrings.com

          http://www.rocktron.com

          http://www.monsterenergy.com/

          Myspace.com-Dave Aronow

          Comment


          • #6
            I think I'll go with daves idea, and just rub the hell out of it. no gouges, just some very minor overlap spots. aslan say mmmeeeow, which means she we will be here for her guitar of the year awards. peace
            5 STAR GENERAL OF THE SG ARMY
            http://acapella.harmony-central.com/....php?t=1232460
            "WE ROCK THE WORLD"

            great dealings with: jj pistols, Mr. goodbomb +1, splendor, puckman, mike fiasco +1, johnny z, minitruth, alley trash, teamodave, sxyryan, GUITAR HEEL, twisty571

            definition of expert= an "ex" is something that once was. a "spurt" is a drip under pressure


            the work begins again, the hope rise's a new,The dream lives on. E.M.Kennedy

            Comment


            • #7
              You can sand it out and reapply as many times as you like. I've done it. I like to use mineral spirits instead of water when sanding, BTW.
              I make hand painted vintage style fuzzes: http://www.lowbroweffects.com

              Comment


              • #8
                it IS made up of oils. REAL oils. It IS oil.

                That's not TRU!
                1 Jay Turser JTLT standard
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                No job, 3 kids, a wife, and a mountain of debt.

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                • #9
                  Uhm, no, Tru-oil IS an oil.

                  it is a blend of linseed and "other" oils, but that is ALL it is, according to the ingredients on the bottle.

                  It forms polymers when it cures and dries hard as a rock if you put it on in thin layers enabling it to cure properly, but it IS made up of oils. REAL oils. It IS oil.


                  Well yes. I should have said it does not behave like an oil in the way say lemon oil behaves. As you say it forms cures to a hard finish.

                  I think there are better options out there, but that is just IMHO.

                  - w
                  __________________
                  To See My Current Gear List => Click Here


                  GOOD DEALS WITH: ae3753, Buckethead99, CBH5150, DCinDC, Dogfish, Drawdeep, Drivelikejoewho, Duderanimous, Jelloman, Marc758, Newbuilder, Orion23, PunkKitty, Scottd23, tomh777, Weather.at.8, Xupernaut, Zemmy

                  SPAM: HOHNER TB1 - $225

                  MY MUSIC:
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                  Originator of the "can I get free picks with that " phrase TM 2011







                  Originally Posted by Bob411


                  Nice ass Mrs. Woody.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey LS. Good to see you.
                    Looks like your question is answered, but

                    EG
                    We're not in Kansas anymore.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Tru Oil is made from polymerized linseed and other natural oils and technically would be categorized as a wipe on varnish.

                      I use a combo of applying with a cotton swatch when building film thickness and wet sanding with 1000 grit and a spritz of mineral spirits between every 2 - 3 coats. Once a good level body is achieved, I spray the last 2 - 3 coats and wet sand with 1500 through 2000 after the last.
                      For a more satin / silky gloss, I'll spray one last coat, wait a week, then rub out with some stock and sheen product, its a fine pumice type substance in a liquid vehicle.
                      For a little shinier look, I'll do a thinned out wiped on glaze coat after the 2000 grit session, then buff the next day by hand with a micro fiber cloth.
                      I like Daves idea of a foam brush, I'll have to give that one a try.
                      Here is one I just finished up

                      .
                      My Name is Tom Pettingill ... I build Hand Crafted Custom Lap Steel Guitars
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                      • #12
                        Good to see ya Leopard. Congrats on the A in your class.
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                        • #13
                          Well yes. I should have said it does not behave like an oil in the way say lemon oil behaves. As you say it forms cures to a hard finish.

                          I think there are better options out there, but that is just IMHO.

                          - w


                          You think there are better options out there than Tru-oil? .... to fix a blemish on a guitar already finished with tru-oil ?

                          For Example?

                          "You people keep on raining. I'll still be the parade." - Diamond Dave.



                          TO HEAR MY COUNTRY BAND: ADRIAN RAY, click THIS or this


                          Official endorsee of:Breedlove Guitars

                          http://www.ghsstrings.com

                          http://www.rocktron.com

                          http://www.monsterenergy.com/

                          Myspace.com-Dave Aronow

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Tru Oil is made from polymerized linseed and other natural oils and technically would be categorized as a wipe on varnish.

                            I use a combo of applying with a cotton swatch when building film thickness and wet sanding with 1000 grit and a spritz of mineral spirits between every 2 - 3 coats. Once a good level body is achieved, I spray the last 2 - 3 coats and wet sand with 1500 through 2000 after the last.
                            For a more satin / silky gloss, I'll spray one last coat, wait a week, then rub out with some stock and sheen product, its a fine pumice type substance in a liquid vehicle.
                            For a little shinier look, I'll do a thinned out wiped on glaze coat after the 2000 grit session, then buff the next day by hand with a micro fiber cloth.
                            I like Daves idea of a foam brush, I'll have to give that one a try.
                            Here is one I just finished up

                            .


                            Amazing shine.

                            I have had nothing but good experiences working with tru-oil and gotten fairly good at applying it.

                            I'd say you pretty much have mastered it.

                            "You people keep on raining. I'll still be the parade." - Diamond Dave.



                            TO HEAR MY COUNTRY BAND: ADRIAN RAY, click THIS or this


                            Official endorsee of:Breedlove Guitars

                            http://www.ghsstrings.com

                            http://www.rocktron.com

                            http://www.monsterenergy.com/

                            Myspace.com-Dave Aronow

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              You think there are better options out there than Tru-oil? .... to fix a blemish on a guitar already finished with tru-oil ?

                              For Example?


                              Oh shoot. I missed that part. Then yeah - either sand and go another route - or the easier way is tru-oil. I agree.

                              - w
                              __________________
                              To See My Current Gear List => Click Here


                              GOOD DEALS WITH: ae3753, Buckethead99, CBH5150, DCinDC, Dogfish, Drawdeep, Drivelikejoewho, Duderanimous, Jelloman, Marc758, Newbuilder, Orion23, PunkKitty, Scottd23, tomh777, Weather.at.8, Xupernaut, Zemmy

                              SPAM: HOHNER TB1 - $225

                              MY MUSIC:
                              My Music Sampler

                              Originator of the "can I get free picks with that " phrase TM 2011







                              Originally Posted by Bob411


                              Nice ass Mrs. Woody.

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