Harmony Central Forums
Announcement Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.

Guitar repair ??? Stripped hole in neck heel...

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse







X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Guitar repair ??? Stripped hole in neck heel...

    Yeah oooooo-kkkkk

    I took the neck off my RG550 to shim it, and one of the 4 holes in the neck used to attach it to the body was stripped.

    Wood glue and tooth-pic in the hole for repair or...???

    Any experience or advice?
    <div class="signaturecontainer"><u><b>Gear:</b></u><br />
    <font color="Red">Caparison </font> TAT<br />
    <font color="Red">Hamer</font> Californian<br />
    <br />
    <b><u>Amp:</u></b> <br />
    <font color="Red">Peavey </font>XXX<br />
    <font color="Red">Engl</font> Screamer<br />
    <br />
    <b><u>Cabinets:</u></b><br />
    <font color="Red">VHT </font>Fat Bottom 4x12 <br />
    <br />
    <b><u>Effects:</u></b> <br />
    <font color="red">Ibanez</font> &quot;Bodenhamer&quot; TS-9<br />
    <font color="Red">ISP</font> Decimator<br />
    <font color="Red">MXR</font> 10 band EQ</div>

  • #2
    Don't waste your time and effort with toothpicks. Get a length of hardwood dowel rod. Do all four holes while you're at it.

    Comment


    • #3
      depending on how badly it's stripped, the wood glue and toothpick method should work. However, the better long term fix is what El Glom-o suggested above with the dowels.
      <div class="signaturecontainer">SPAM:<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      Custom Wired Strat Pickguard Assemblies - PM me to discuss specs &amp; pricing<br />
      <br />
      Good Trades: PunkKitty, mfergel, Norcal_GIT_r, Chuck1016, Elias Graves, hrcnsfan, ugameus, RosePickups, jelloman, Hookandcanman, Danocoustic</div>

      Comment


      • #4
        Don't waste your time and effort with toothpicks. Get a length of hardwood dowel rod. Do all four holes while you're at it.


        You mean insert dowel...sand flush...re-drill holes?
        <div class="signaturecontainer"><u><b>Gear:</b></u><br />
        <font color="Red">Caparison </font> TAT<br />
        <font color="Red">Hamer</font> Californian<br />
        <br />
        <b><u>Amp:</u></b> <br />
        <font color="Red">Peavey </font>XXX<br />
        <font color="Red">Engl</font> Screamer<br />
        <br />
        <b><u>Cabinets:</u></b><br />
        <font color="Red">VHT </font>Fat Bottom 4x12 <br />
        <br />
        <b><u>Effects:</u></b> <br />
        <font color="red">Ibanez</font> &quot;Bodenhamer&quot; TS-9<br />
        <font color="Red">ISP</font> Decimator<br />
        <font color="Red">MXR</font> 10 band EQ</div>

        Comment


        • #5
          You mean insert dowel...sand flush...re-drill holes?


          There's somewhat more to it than that, but you've got the basic idea.

          Comment


          • #6
            There's somewhat more to it than that, but you've got the basic idea.

            They way I fix these, and I see quite a few belonging to kids that that just gotta tighten the phuck out of 'em, is to use 1/4" hardwood dowel plugs available at good hardware or wood store. Measure the approximate depth needed by putting a neck screw thru the body with the neck plate in place. Put your 1/4" drill bit next to it and use a piece of masking tape to mark the depth on your bit. Drill out the holes, glue up your plugs and gently tap them in place. Let dry over nite and cut the excess off with a hacksaw blade. Don't use the whole hacksaw, just the blade. I finally got a Japanese flush cut saw to do these, but the hacksaw blade works fine.
            It's 4am woman make up your mind. EITHER SPIT IT OUT OR SWALLOW IT!!!

            Comment


            • #7
              Yeah, drill and dowel works great.

              Or you could just go to the hardware store and get you something like this:



              I did my N4 with them and it worked great. You have to make absolutely certain that you get the right screw length and the right size drill bit when you drill the holes for the inserts but the guitar's body will snap in half long before these give out.

              As you can see I didn't have much option since the previous dowel job was a mess:

              <div class="signaturecontainer"><font color="black"><font size="1"><font color="gray">AxeFXII with these: </font></font><font size="1"><a href="http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z4/ashasha3/CP/1.jpg" target="_blank">Axis</a></font><font size="1"> | <a href="http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z4/ashasha3/CP/2.jpg" target="_blank">BMG RS</a> | <a href="http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z4/ashasha3/CP/3.jpg" target="_blank">Strat</a> |<a href="http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z4/ashasha3/CP/9.jpg" target="_blank">N4</a>| <a href="http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z4/ashasha3/CP/5.jpg" target="_blank">LP Classic</a> | <a href="http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z4/ashasha3/CP/6.jpg" target="_blank">SG Classic</a> | <a href="http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z4/ashasha3/CP/7.jpg" target="_blank">Sheraton</a> | <a href="http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z4/ashasha3/CP/9-1.jpg" target="_blank">Tele</a></font></font></div>

              Comment


              • #8
                Ok, wait a minute, are you saying that one of the holes through the neck itself is stripped?? you really dont want the neck holes threaded anyways, that could give you the false impression that the neck screws are tightened up. you want free movement of the neck screws in the neck itself, doesnt look like anyone else caught that little piece of information. Some guitars may "seem" to have threaded neck holes, not really the case though, just tight tolerances. Not sure if I understand you correctly or not.
                <div class="signaturecontainer">Fiddles: Gibson Les Paul Classic<br />
                Warmoth homebuilt Strat<br />
                Xaviere XV-550<br />
                <br />
                Amps: Splawn Quick Rod and matching 2x12<br />
                Laney VC-30112<br />
                <br />
                <br />
                good dealings with/trade references: MRAAJR, SMASHINGTIME, STRATOSLACKER, MASTERBURRFOOT, BLUPLIRST</div>

                Comment


                • #9
                  Ok, wait a minute, are you saying that one of the holes through the neck itself is stripped?? you really dont want the neck holes threaded anyways, that could give you the false impression that the neck screws are tightened up. you want free movement of the neck screws in the neck itself, doesnt look like anyone else caught that little piece of information. Some guitars may "seem" to have threaded neck holes, not really the case though, just tight tolerances. Not sure if I understand you correctly or not.


                  Holes in BODY should be free-running. Holes in NECK should be small enough for the screws to cut threads.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ok, wait a minute, are you saying that one of the holes through the neck itself is stripped?? you really dont want the neck holes threaded anyways, that could give you the false impression that the neck screws are tightened up. you want free movement of the neck screws in the neck itself, doesnt look like anyone else caught that little piece of information. Some guitars may "seem" to have threaded neck holes, not really the case though, just tight tolerances. Not sure if I understand you correctly or not.


                    Sounds to me like YOU are talking about the holes in the body? I, for one, very much DO want threads in my bolt-on necks.

                    AND I put threaded inserts in one of my basses (my test bass) and they are really good for a good tight joint! It improved the sound on that bass.
                    <div class="signaturecontainer"><font size="1">SX SEG1STD,KY1 (CUS22,ASH22,STD24),STL50,SST (57,Ash,SE,LTD2),GG1LTD2,GG6CUS,GG7CUS,SJB75C4+1 (fretted,fretless),SJB (2-57,2-62),SPJ62,2-SB301 (fretted,fretless)<br />
                    Douglas Shadow,WRL590,TL100,WOB826,WPB955,2-WPB980<br />
                    Brice Z6 (fretted,fretless)<br />
                    Agile AL2000 (minihum,prail),AL2500 (Albino,12) ,AL3000 (reg,neck-thru)<br />
                    Squier Affinity Tele,Deluxe Jazz V<br />
                    Oscar Schmidt OE40<br />
                    Raven RP450,Yamaha BB404,Switch Signature Wild IV<br />
                    First Act VE591,semi-hollow; PRS SE (Custom, Soapbar II,semi-hollow)<br />
                    </font></div>

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Ok, wait a minute, are you saying that one of the holes through the neck itself is stripped?? you really dont want the neck holes threaded anyways, that could give you the false impression that the neck screws are tightened up. you want free movement of the neck screws in the neck itself, doesnt look like anyone else caught that little piece of information. Some guitars may "seem" to have threaded neck holes, not really the case though, just tight tolerances. Not sure if I understand you correctly or not.


                      The hole in the neck is stripped. When i went to tighten up the screws on the neck plate...3 went nice and tight...one spun with little resistance.
                      <div class="signaturecontainer"><u><b>Gear:</b></u><br />
                      <font color="Red">Caparison </font> TAT<br />
                      <font color="Red">Hamer</font> Californian<br />
                      <br />
                      <b><u>Amp:</u></b> <br />
                      <font color="Red">Peavey </font>XXX<br />
                      <font color="Red">Engl</font> Screamer<br />
                      <br />
                      <b><u>Cabinets:</u></b><br />
                      <font color="Red">VHT </font>Fat Bottom 4x12 <br />
                      <br />
                      <b><u>Effects:</u></b> <br />
                      <font color="red">Ibanez</font> &quot;Bodenhamer&quot; TS-9<br />
                      <font color="Red">ISP</font> Decimator<br />
                      <font color="Red">MXR</font> 10 band EQ</div>

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I think since you have three good connections, the easy way of using toothpicks should be just fine for the fourth.

                        The others make great suggestions, and if you remove the neck a lot having the thread inserts installed is a great idea. But save the dowel rods and/or inserts for when the next problem surfaces, if the problem persists or another arises, then I would definitely go for a more thorough repair.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks for everyone's help!!
                          <div class="signaturecontainer"><u><b>Gear:</b></u><br />
                          <font color="Red">Caparison </font> TAT<br />
                          <font color="Red">Hamer</font> Californian<br />
                          <br />
                          <b><u>Amp:</u></b> <br />
                          <font color="Red">Peavey </font>XXX<br />
                          <font color="Red">Engl</font> Screamer<br />
                          <br />
                          <b><u>Cabinets:</u></b><br />
                          <font color="Red">VHT </font>Fat Bottom 4x12 <br />
                          <br />
                          <b><u>Effects:</u></b> <br />
                          <font color="red">Ibanez</font> &quot;Bodenhamer&quot; TS-9<br />
                          <font color="Red">ISP</font> Decimator<br />
                          <font color="Red">MXR</font> 10 band EQ</div>

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            But save the dowel rods and/or inserts for when the next problem surfaces, if the problem persists or another arises, then I would definitely go for a more thorough repair.



                            If one hole is stripped, the other three probably aren't far from it. May as well go ahead and do the proper repair (dowel or threaded insert) to all four holes as long as the neck is detached anyway.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The hole in the neck is stripped. When i went to tighten up the screws on the neck plate...3 went nice and tight...one spun with little resistance.
                              Another quick and good method is to make mixture of wood glue and sawdust and force it down into the hole . . . I would let it set for at least an hour before I then drilled a pilot hole into the gemisch. Probably wouldn't be good to put the screw into wet glue.

                              Greg

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X