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Who plays Floyd equipped guitars in non-metal contexts? Talk me outta this one.


zer0psi

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Who here plays Floyd-equipped axes outside of metal? I ask as I'm EXTREMELY tempted by the Charvel SoCal. It has everything I want: Strat body, HH (DiMarzios to boot!), black hardware, MIJ, satin maple neck/board (the neck from hell!); and has one thing I don't: the Floyd. I've never used a trem if I had it, and don't plan on it. While I like the tuning stability and all, in my opinion I'm losing sustain, and not sure about the 80's metal image. But can I let that ruin my almost perfect guitar?

 

Anyone else know what I'm saying?

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I went on a cruise, and one of the guitarists in one of the bands had a Super Strat with a Floyd. They played a lot of music form the 40s through the 80s. No metal at all, and not much rock. So yeah, it could work... but I agree with jelloman. If you don't like Floyds, you won't like it on that guitar either.

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You won't lose sustain with a Floyd, and it's mere presence isn't going to require you to play metal. I like Floyds a lot, but if you're not planning on ever using it, I wouldn't get a guitar that had one.

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The Downsides to a Floyd Rose:

1) It'll be a little bit more of a pain in the ass when it comes time to change strings. Actually, it'll be a pretty big pain in the ass if you've never owned a Floyd Rose before.

2) If you perform live, you have to keep the Allen wrench with you at all times...woe be it to the man that forgets an Allen wrench and breaks a string while playing live.

3) If you gig with it, you'll absolutely want to bring a backup. Changing a string and re-tuning with one during the middle of a song is very impractical.

 

The Upsides:

1) Once Floyd Roses are in tune, they stay that way. It's hands-down the most stable tuning system after it's in tune and locked. You've also got fine tuners to account for the slight pitch changes caused by humidity and climate. Until you break a string, or decide to change them, you probably won't need to unlock the locking nut at all.

2) A Tremel-No can convert it into a hardtail, and they work well. This leaves open the option of using it in the future with a minimum of fuss.

 

 

I use one to play Hendrixy-stuff live, all the time. In fact, if you read about it, Floyd Rose designed the original prototype while he was the guitar tech for a Hendrix impersonator. There's nothing that mandates you have to be a metal player to use one...far from it.

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I say go for it too. If you do use it, just imagine it as a super functional strat trem.

 

If you don't ever plan on using it, get a Tremel-no and leave it blocked.

 

Either way, don't let the Floyd convice you to not get the guitar, especially if you've playing it an enjoy playing it. In that case, it seems like it's nothing but a cosmetic thing.

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I don't find changing strings to be that big a deal. You have to loosen the nut clamps, loosen the screw holding the string to the bridge and cut the end off the strings, but that adds a total of about 47 seconds to string changes. I changed strings at a leisurely pace yesterday. It took about 25 minutes from start to having everything done and the guitar back in tune.

 

Tuning is more of a hassle because adjusting one string will throw the others out, but once you get it in tune, you'd good to go for a while.

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Any trem is a pain in the ass if you never use it, as compared with a hardtail. I have four trem-equipped guitars, one of which is a Floyd, but I use the trems. If I never used them, I wouldn't buy a guitar that has one. It's just not worth the hassle.

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Get it.

 

The Floyd may be associated with "Metal" but in the end, it's still a trem, just with the ability to lock down the string on both ends for maximum tunning stability.

 

There will be a learning curve to string changing etc., but as mentioned, you can get the Tremlo-no added to it if it becomes a pain to you.

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One other floyd trick is to leave multiple wraps on the B and E pegs (the skinny strings that often break). After you take the broken bit out of the saddle, just unwrap enough of the string to insert in the saddle and tighten tune and reclamp.

 

I usually have a gut feeling when I have played on a set long enough and just pre emptively clip off the stressed ends of the skinny strings and re clamp them and get twice the play out of the strings rather than putting on brand new strings when they break.

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One other floyd trick is to leave multiple wraps on the B and E pegs (the skinny strings that often break). After you take the broken bit out of the saddle, just unwrap enough of the string to insert in the saddle and tighten tune and reclamp.


I usually have a gut feeling when I have played on a set long enough and just pre emptively clip off the stressed ends of the skinny strings and re clamp them and get twice the play out of the strings rather than putting on brand new strings when they break.

 

 

I used to do the same thing, but it's only a temporary solution. The string should still be replaced as quickly as possible, for one important reason.

 

Once the locking nut is clamped down, it puts a nice crimp in the string. That crimp is now in play between the locking nut and the tremolo, and a crimp is a weak point. That string is destined to break on a heavy bend, and when it does? It'll break right at the crimp, every time.

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I love Ibanez guitars, but unfortunately it's hard to find one without a trem. I've learned to live with it; I would just block it (either a small block of wood, or a tremol-no) and enjoy it
:D

 

Mine has no trem. Chunky neck and thick body.

 

Olympic010.jpg

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One other floyd trick is to leave multiple wraps on the B and E pegs (the skinny strings that often break). After you take the broken bit out of the saddle, just unwrap enough of the string to insert in the saddle and tighten tune and reclamp.


I usually have a gut feeling when I have played on a set long enough and just pre emptively clip off the stressed ends of the skinny strings and re clamp them and get twice the play out of the strings rather than putting on brand new strings when they break.

 

 

Yep. Been doing this for as long as I can remember.

 

Just wind on 4 or 5 too many turns of string on B and high E (compared to normal non-locking nut re-stringings). It doesn't matter how many windings exist on the tuning machine pegs once the locking nut is locked. Over time, clip off a little of the tremolo end of the B and high E strings and re-tune B and high E. You'll beat the string reaper by a mile this way.

 

Also, when it comes time to change strings, change one string at a time and tune it to pitch before proceeding to the next string. You won't have to go through recalibrating everything this way -- unless you decide to go with a different string gauge... then your fucked. :D

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