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  • #46
    Yes I've done this on both Ash guitar bodies and Walnut gunstocks. I used the Tru-oil for ease of final finish and the fact that I could get a glass-like finish or knock it down to semi-gloss with 0000 steel wool. You could stick with the polyurethane for a final finish, wiping it on just like the Tru-Oil, but I liked the Tru-Oil better for finishing. The Poly tends to look much thicker while the Tru-oil appears like there is no finish at all. Another nice thing about the Tru-Oil is it touches up very easily. If you get a scratch, you can lightly steel wool or sand it out, apply a few drops of Tru-Oil to the palm of your hand and rub it in. It blends right in with the surrounding finish seamlessly.
    "I've got a briefcase of thin air. I can play some tricks on you, pretend that I don't care." The Contrast

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    • #47
      Killer
      1 Jay Turser JTLT standard
      1 Vox AD30VT
      1 Alvarez Koa Acoustic
      No job, 3 kids, a wife, and a mountain of debt.

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      • #48
        That looks really good. Can you still feel the grain.


        Thank you.

        Yes, I can feel the grain and i really like that.
        __________________________________________________ ___________________

        Yamaholic --- PpP --- Old geezer with a grey beard

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        • #49
          Relevent to my interests. My USA Tele needs doing, and I'm determined to get it done in Jan when I have no shows.

          I bought it with the top and sides pealed to the clear undercoat (it was black from factory), it's not the prettiest, but I think getting all of the finish off and oiling it would be badly wicked!
          Gibson LP Custom, Std, Studio, Jr (x2), SG Std (x2)
          PRS Cu24, Cu22
          Fender US Strat & Tele, Baja Tele, Hw1 P-Bass
          Ibanez RG548, RG550, EX170
          Epiphone LP Custom BB
          Antoria Custom Agent
          ----------
          Mesa Roadking, Recto Trd "A" cab, Recto Std "S" cab (x2), P.H. 8x10
          Marshall JCM800 2204 (x2), TSL, 1960A
          Ampeg V-4
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          Orange PPC112
          Laney B1, LC15
          -------------------------
          www.reverbnation.com/lastunderthesun
          www.reverbnation.com/policebastard
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          • #50
            For you Tru oil fans: want something cheaper? Get a quart of boiled linseed oil and a quart of spar varnish. Mix 50/50. That's what tru oil is. Before Tru oil came along, old school gun stock makers used this stuff. Now you don't have to worry about spending 20 bucks total for enough tru oil to do one project. You'll have a half gallon of the **************** for about the same price. If you can find it in pints, go that way. You'll have more than enough to do a geetar. Where did I learn this? My father.
            When I was 18 years old, he didn't know ****************. By the time I was 25, he had learned a whole lot!

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            • #51
              I was talking with a member via PM about how Tru Oil on maple necks compare to tinted and non-tinted Fender necks.

              I finally took some pics, but I'd deleted your PMs.

              Hopefully he'll check this thread.

              From left to right and top to bottom:

              Highway One neck (similar to an American Standard... perhaps a bit more tinted looking with ~8 years of aging)
              Robert Cray sig neck (similar to AVRI necks)
              Warmoth that came with zero finish. I put some brown shoe polish on it, wiped that off, handled it with intentionally greasy hands, wiped that off then hit it with 5 coats of Tru Oil.
              Warmoth that originally had a clear poly finish, I scuffed it up everywhere and hit it with 5 coats of Tru Oil.



              Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius:

              "When it comes to gear vs talent I'll be the first to admit that I sit in the Mayor's seat in Poserville."

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              • #52
                Still working omn this one. Color FX amber dye. I think I have 3 coats tru-oil.

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                • #53
                  Opinions on joint compound as grain filler? This looks like a great solution.
                  1 Jay Turser JTLT standard
                  1 Vox AD30VT
                  1 Alvarez Koa Acoustic
                  No job, 3 kids, a wife, and a mountain of debt.

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                  • #54
                    Opinions on joint compound as grain filler? This looks like a great solution.


                    As in drywall joint compound?
                    "I've got a briefcase of thin air. I can play some tricks on you, pretend that I don't care." The Contrast

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                    • #55
                      As in drywall joint compound?


                      yep

                      2x4 Telecaster build - | - killer HC search

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                      • #56
                        no you don't...sanding sealer will prevent the tru-oil from penetrating the wood...it'll never cure properly and will just peel off...

                        Tru-Oil is a penetrating polymerized oil that is produced by heating tung oil and linseed oil rtogether at 500 degrees in an oxygen-free environment...the resulting mixture is a deep-penetrating oil that seals the wood against weathering...which is why it is used on gunstocks...it penetrates into the wood pores and cures quite rapidly, so there is very little time to get each coat applied...

                        if you apply a sanding sealer (shellac) you will seal the wood and the tru-oil can't penetrate the pores...

                        Grain filler will make the finished product absolutely smooth...a glass type finish...not using it will allow the grain to be felt through the oil...

                        it's a matter of personal choice whether to use grain filler or not...


                        I could be wrong... but I think that this is incorrect. I'm pretty sure that using sanding sealer (as long as it's wax-free) is fine as a base under Tru-oil. Maybe Tom (Quarter) can weigh in on this here. There is also a very informative thread on this subject over at TDPRI:

                        http://www.tdpri.com/forum/finely-finished/281396-what-if-i-put-tru-oil-right-over-shellac.html

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                        • #57
                          I could be wrong... but I think that this is incorrect. I'm pretty sure that using sanding sealer (as long as it's wax-free) is fine as a base under Tru-oil. Maybe Tom (Quarter) can weigh in on this here. There is also a very informative thread on this subject over at TDPRI:

                          http://www.tdpri.com/forum/finely-finished/281396-what-if-i-put-tru-oil-right-over-shellac.html


                          Wipe on poly works great also. Just wipe it on sand it down smooth and your ready for the tru ioil.

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                          • #58
                            Since this is a resurrected thread that's turned into a Tru Oil discussion, I'll post my request for advice...though I may end up posting in meandi's shop thread. I have a Warmoth neck on order: Goncalo Alves with a Pau Ferro board. According to Warmoth no finish is required on these woods. However, I would like to finish the Goncalo in Tru Oil anyway.

                            For anyone who has finished a neck with a rosewood board, do you Tru Oil the playing surface? If not do you somehow protect it?
                            Originally Posted by wedgehed II


                            Instead of searching for intelligent life in the universe, NASA should send a probe to this thread.

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                            • #59
                              For anyone who has finished a neck with a rosewood board, do you Tru Oil the playing surface? If not do you somehow protect it?


                              Do you mean 'protect it from the elements' or 'protect it from getting Tru Oil on it'?

                              I don't know anything about Pau Ferro, but Indian Rosewood doesn't need protecting... it's pretty oil on it's own. I've never had a Warmoth neck straight from Warmoth with a rosewood fretboard, but from some of the other suppliers, the rosewood came un-polished and looked pretty dry, but it's still oily if that makes sense. I've used a Dremel and a large felt polishing wheel to buff the rosewood a bit to make it look more vibrant and more shiny... basically like finished rosewood rather than just something that was found laying around somewhere which is how a neck from Allparts looked.
                              Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius:

                              "When it comes to gear vs talent I'll be the first to admit that I sit in the Mayor's seat in Poserville."

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                              • #60
                                Yeah I meant protecting it from getting Tru Oil on it inadvertantly. [My question would apply to a maple neck with rosewood too. I am treating the Pau Ferro as I would rosewood.] I imagine the Tru Oil would show as shiney splotches that contrast with the raw wood. I do "oil" my rosewood boards from time to time, but since Tru Oil hardens I thought maybe I should avoid the fretboard surface. Alternatively I could just apply Tru Oil between the frets too, but I don't know what to expect compared to unoiled wood. It sounds like I could clean the T.O. with mineral spirits...maybe?
                                Originally Posted by wedgehed II


                                Instead of searching for intelligent life in the universe, NASA should send a probe to this thread.

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