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Tru-Oil question...

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  • #16
    I use Birchwood Casey Tru-oil on all are guitar necks...Love it...But there are a zillion ways to finish it...Try it on some scrap wood you have around
    Durango Guitar WorksDGWShort Scale Guitars

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    • #17
      Here are a few examples of how you can accent the ash grain with a darker grain filler (whatever you choose to use).

      A couple of drops of black added to filler


      With color coat over...


      Dark brown tinted filler...

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      • #18
        if you like millions of holes then dont fill them, if you dont like millions of holes fill them.
        _________________________________________________

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        The REAL Angry

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        • #19
          Thanks for all the help guys! This is sweet having advice so quickly available

          Quarter, what exactly do you mean by straight TO for the for the wet sanding? Do you still do a coat after that as well then each day?
          Squier Standard Telealvarez PD80-SC

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          • #20
            Thanks for all the help guys! This is sweet having advice so quickly available

            Quarter, what exactly do you mean by straight TO for the for the wet sanding? Do you still do a coat after that as well then each day?


            I'm sure he will clarify but I believe he means use tru-oil instead of water for the "wet" in wet sanding.

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            • #21
              That would seem to be a lot of tru-oil to buy. Its only available around here in the 3 oz. bottles for $7 each.
              Squier Standard Telealvarez PD80-SC

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              • #22
                That would seem to be a lot of tru-oil to buy. Its only available around here in the 3 oz. bottles for $7 each.


                Suck it up man. Do a nice job and you won't regret the price of a couple of bottles.
                Listen...

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                • #23
                  Haha I would but I am a broke, jobless, highschool kid!
                  Squier Standard Telealvarez PD80-SC

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                  • #24
                    Tru Oil drys very fast you have to work small areas. Don't see how you could wet sand with it.
                    I just steelwooled between coats on this neck.

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                    • #25
                      That would seem to be a lot of tru-oil to buy. Its only available around here in the 3 oz. bottles for $7 each.

                      It actually takes very little, one bottle goes a lot farther than you might think.. Work small areas at a time, like 4" x 4", and just a few drops of TO, enough that its wet but not drenched, you will get a feel for it. A handy tip is don't peal the foil off the top of the bottle, but just poke a small hole in it. This helps with evaporation and also makes it easy to control the flow. Also, if you have a Walmart around, some carry True Oil for about $5 a bottle.
                      My Name is Tom Pettingill ... I build Hand Crafted Custom Lap Steel Guitars
                      https://www.facebook.com/Pettingill-...3236265069214/
                      http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn87/tompettingill

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                      • #26
                        Haha I would but I am a broke, jobless, highschool kid!


                        You can buy 8 oz. bottles of Tru Oil from an Amazon dealer for $12.61 (free shipping, no tax). No spray booth needed, no compressor, no spray gun, no anti-explosion exhaust fan. Just Tru Oil, sandpaper and applicators.

                        A pro finish job on a body will cost you $300+. If you want to do it on the cheap, there is always aerosol cans of poly at the auto store.oke:

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                        • #27
                          So, I put one heavy coat of TO on and let it sit over night. Then I put a little bit of TO on the sand paper to wet sand. Then I use my fingers to push the slurry into the grain. Then I put another heavy coat on?

                          Sorry for the many questions. I like visualize stuff in my head before I do it so I want to make sure I get it right.
                          Squier Standard Telealvarez PD80-SC

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                          • #28
                            pics.
                            2x4 Telecaster build - | - killer HC search

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                            • #29
                              I think it dependes on the wood but I think if you're finishing a non-figured hardwood with a clear finish, the guitar looks better without filling. Makes the guitar look more interesting...and why coat it with a clear coat to see the grain and then fill the pores so you're hiding it?


                              I can see the usefulness in pore filling over an opaque color or tint...or if you want some flame to pop better...but for something like ash or alder I'd probably just go for not filling...It also seems to hide scratches better and at the same time enhancing how the guitar looks as it ages.
                              "I don't want to be immortalized through my work. I want to be immortalized by not dying." Woody Allen

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                              • #30
                                So, I put one heavy coat of TO on and let it sit over night. Then I put a little bit of TO on the sand paper to wet sand. Then I use my fingers to push the slurry into the grain. Then I put another heavy coat on?

                                Sorry for the many questions. I like visualize stuff in my head before I do it so I want to make sure I get it right.

                                No last heavy coat, let it dry overnight and do it all again one more time.
                                My Name is Tom Pettingill ... I build Hand Crafted Custom Lap Steel Guitars
                                https://www.facebook.com/Pettingill-...3236265069214/
                                http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn87/tompettingill

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