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Hey Gretsch guys (or other classic styled archtops)


sxyryan

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After some experimenting, I've finally found a setup that works for my Tennesee Rose. I run 11's on everything, but on this one, I have to run a wound G, otherwise the slightest bend throws the G out of tune. I've checked the nut, and tuner, so I assume the bridge is the culprit.

Anyone have any luck with other bridges on their Gretsch? For now, mine is working well and I can deal with the wound G, but I prefer the plain one. This is my main standard tuning guit, so I don't mind pricier options, I want to get the best thing I can.

Thanks all.

Here's a picture, as I don't know what this bridge is called.
422891_10150557711532911_1413338227_n.jp

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Nice Tenny! My first gretsch was one.

For my current lineup.

My 6120AM came with an ABR-1 tuneomatic. I had to add a bit of nail polish to quiet the rattles, but it's fine.

My 6128TCG came with the Melita, which I hated. Too much lateral movement, even hand bending the little pieces. It's now got a brass TruArc, and I play it more than anything. I'll probably get one for the 6120 too.

I play a 10-46 set, plain G. No issues. I use the bigsby a lot.

Oh, and roller bridges are tone suckers for the same reason as the Melita. They might make sense if you had a lot of bridge break angle, like with a tension roller bigsby, but even Neil Young and Billy Zoom don't bother with them either.

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Nice Tenny! My first gretsch was one.

For my current lineup.

My 6120AM came with an ABR-1 tuneomatic. I had to add a bit of nail polish to quiet the rattles, but it's fine.

My 6128TCG came with the Melita, which I hated. Too much lateral movement, even hand bending the little pieces. It's now got a brass TruArc, and I play it more than anything. I'll probably get one for the 6120 too.

I play a 10-46 set, plain G. No issues. I use the bigsby a lot.

Oh, and roller bridges are tone suckers for the same reason as the Melita. They might make sense if you had a lot of bridge break angle, like with a tension roller bigsby, but even Neil Young and Billy Zoom don't bother with them either.

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Quote Originally Posted by Kap'n View Post
Nice Tenny! My first gretsch was one.

Oh, and roller bridges are tone suckers for the same reason as the Melita. They might make sense if you had a lot of bridge break angle, like with a tension roller bigsby, but even Neil Young and Billy Zoom don't bother with them either.
Thanks! I wanted a Tenny forever but the price new was a bit much for me, and Gretsches in general seem tough to come by around here used. My tax return last year came it, and one showed up used at the local Guitar Center. I had to jump, it was like fate.

I've tried rollers before, with other Bigsby guits. I've had better luck with properly cut nuts, with a bit of graphite thrown in for good measure, along with minor spring mods on the Bigsby.

Quote Originally Posted by Kap'n View Post
Oh, your bridge is what Gretsch calls a "Rocking Bar Bridge." They're OK, but the radius is flatter than your fingerboard. TruArcs take care of that.
That would explain the setup issues I had when I first got it. I never measured the radius, I just assumed it would be right due to it all being factory.
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Quote Originally Posted by Kap'n View Post
Nice Tenny! My first gretsch was one.

Oh, and roller bridges are tone suckers for the same reason as the Melita. They might make sense if you had a lot of bridge break angle, like with a tension roller bigsby, but even Neil Young and Billy Zoom don't bother with them either.
Thanks! I wanted a Tenny forever but the price new was a bit much for me, and Gretsches in general seem tough to come by around here used. My tax return last year came it, and one showed up used at the local Guitar Center. I had to jump, it was like fate.

I've tried rollers before, with other Bigsby guits. I've had better luck with properly cut nuts, with a bit of graphite thrown in for good measure, along with minor spring mods on the Bigsby.

Quote Originally Posted by Kap'n View Post
Oh, your bridge is what Gretsch calls a "Rocking Bar Bridge." They're OK, but the radius is flatter than your fingerboard. TruArcs take care of that.
That would explain the setup issues I had when I first got it. I never measured the radius, I just assumed it would be right due to it all being factory.
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And thanks to the bridge suggestions guys. I'll read up on them. I did some research but it seems like a lot of mod parts for these (or any other vintage style instrument) tend to hover in the "snake oil" realm. I needed some trustworthy accounts before I threw the money down.

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And thanks to the bridge suggestions guys. I'll read up on them. I did some research but it seems like a lot of mod parts for these (or any other vintage style instrument) tend to hover in the "snake oil" realm. I needed some trustworthy accounts before I threw the money down.

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Quote Originally Posted by jw10 View Post
Comptons do look slick. However, make sure you get some pencil in that nut before concluding that its automatically the bridge.
That's my standard practice when I restring. I even dealt with the nut slots, as this guitar came from it's previous owner with 9's and I run 11's.

Quote Originally Posted by Pine Apple Slim View Post
True. But the Compton is still worth it for the tone, over a tunomatic anyway.
I wanted something different from a tuneomatic anyways. It looks kind of odd to me on a Gretsch. I'm used to guitars that don't precise ways to intonate, so I don't really need a bridge with adjustable saddles. At least eh Compton looks like it should be there.

Quote Originally Posted by D Carroll View Post
rolleyes.gif
Can't be perfect all the time, haha.
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All things considered, the Gretsch Rocking Bar bridge, like most bridges on hollowbody archtops, is a floating bridge. And a replacement will most likely be a floating bridge. Floating bridges need tension to help keep them in place. Heavier strings provide that tension. The extra tension also works well with a Bigsby. Your best bet is to just keep using heavier strings. You might want to try some 12s with a wound third and/or flatwounds. Or if you don't want a wound third you could try a heavier 11 set such as Ernie Ball Beefy Slinkys.

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^

I'm pretty sure the issue is the bridge only working with wound G's. A lot of Gibson wrap arounds are like that too, but there isn't motion on those so it has more to do with intonation. A wound G was a norm when these were designed.

I've been doing setups for years, so it wasn't too hard to figure out. It has rock solid tuning with 11's and wound G. I bought a single wound G and swap them, and the problem fixed itself.

You're right about tension being a big part of stability and stuff especially with vintage trems. That's one of the reasons I don't like the Vibramate kits. It puts the Bigbsy too close to the bridge and break angle is a bit sharp for my liking.

This post isn't so much about how to set up the guitar, but a reputable upgrade for the bridge. I'd hate to spend 40+ bucks on a bridge to find it doesn't work the way the maker says it does, so I came here to find some first hand accounts.

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I've tried several on my 6120. The roller bridge killed sustain. An ABR style bridge made the Bigsby hard to work smoothly. I went back to the original rocking bar and widened the nut slots--mine has a zero fret, so the nut just keeps the strings in line. I like the sound and feel of the rocking bar best. Tuning stability is good with Pyramid round wound 10's.

6120.jpg

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