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The trouble with Tru-Oil ...

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  • The trouble with Tru-Oil ...

    ... is the 24h waiting period between the coats.

    This stuff is unbelieveable, I just sanded the neck and applied one coat and already the result is amazing. Nice color, increased depth. It's a maple/maple neck, so it gets the full treatment - I want it to become golden and shiny. It will be fitted into a dark green Jazzmaster-style body, already the contrast is stunning.

    beginning tomorrow there will be pics.
    <div class="signaturecontainer"><b><div align="center">Axe-Fx Ultra <img src="http://img3.harmony-central.com/acapella/ubb/love.gif" border="0" alt="" title="love" class="inlineimg" /><img src="http://img3.harmony-central.com/acapella/ubb/love.gif" border="0" alt="" title="love" class="inlineimg" /><img src="http://img3.harmony-central.com/acapella/ubb/love.gif" border="0" alt="" title="love" class="inlineimg" /></div></b></div>

  • #2
    Been using it for years. While I do wait 24 hours for 2 of the 10 or so coats I give it (10 for bodies, 6 for necks), you only really need 2 hours between coats (or until it's not tacky anymore). I usually do 2 coats a day or 3 if I'm up late. Before the 5th coat, I wait 24 hours, buff with 0000 steel wool, then do it all again. Then tae it to my buffer which evens everything out nicely. Take like 3 days to for me to get 10 coats of solid, even finish.


    <div class="signaturecontainer"><a href="http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681716" target="_blank">My various guitar build • repair • maintenance threads</a><br />
    <br />
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    <br />
    <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3730950/videos/sortldest" target="_blank">Some of my motion graphics ****************</a><br />
    <br />
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    <a href="http://handshakeinc.bandcamp.com/album/sulaco-build-and-burn" target="_blank"><b>Download Sulaco, &quot;Build and Burn&quot; for free or pay in any format you want</b></a><br />
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    1981 Marshall 2203<br />
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    Comment


    • #3
      Been using it for years. While I do wait 24 hours for 2 of the 10 or so coats I give it (10 for bodies, 6 for necks), you only really need 2 hours between coats (or until it's not tacky anymore). I usually do 2 coats a day or 3 if I'm up late. Before the 5th coat, I wait 24 hours, buff with 0000 steel wool, then do it all again. Then tae it to my buffer which evens everything out nicely. Take like 3 days to for me to get 10 coats of solid, even finish.




      gorgeous!
      <div class="signaturecontainer"><b><div align="center">Axe-Fx Ultra <img src="http://img3.harmony-central.com/acapella/ubb/love.gif" border="0" alt="" title="love" class="inlineimg" /><img src="http://img3.harmony-central.com/acapella/ubb/love.gif" border="0" alt="" title="love" class="inlineimg" /><img src="http://img3.harmony-central.com/acapella/ubb/love.gif" border="0" alt="" title="love" class="inlineimg" /></div></b></div>

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      • #4
        I have been thinking of trying this for a project, where do you guys usually buy tru oil? Anything special to look for?

        Comment


        • #5
          I have been thinking of trying this for a project, where do you guys usually buy tru oil? Anything special to look for?


          Most Walmart's have it in the gun section. i use it so much though, that I order giant bottles from the manufacturer
          <div class="signaturecontainer"><a href="http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681716" target="_blank">My various guitar build • repair • maintenance threads</a><br />
          <br />
          <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Mason-Custom-Guitars/156618887748457" target="_blank">My Custom Guitar page</a><br />
          <br />
          <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3730950/videos/sortldest" target="_blank">Some of my motion graphics ****************</a><br />
          <br />
          <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sulaco/46444309708?sk=app_178091127385" target="_blank">My metal band, <b>Sulaco</b></a><br />
          <a href="http://handshakeinc.bandcamp.com/album/sulaco-build-and-burn" target="_blank"><b>Download Sulaco, &quot;Build and Burn&quot; for free or pay in any format you want</b></a><br />
          <br />
          <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/BML/61073698552" target="_blank">My instrumental Prog band, <b>BML</b></a><br />
          <br />
          1981 Marshall 2203<br />
          Marshall DSL50</div>

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks, I'll have to check it out today.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks, I'll have to check it out today.


              your sig,.... so great
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              • #8
                A question. Do you use grain filler if finishing with Tru oil?

                Surfy
                <div class="signaturecontainer">HC Geezer Brigade #71<br />
                <br />
                &quot;There's a little green man in my head&quot;</div>

                Comment


                • #9
                  your sig,.... so great


                  Thanks!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Do you apply it like stain with a rag or do you use a brush?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Do you apply it like stain with a rag or do you use a brush?


                      depends on who you ask. some people use their fingers, some use rags, and some use brushes.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I think the "Tru oil revolution" is a phenomenon that reflects what I've been discovering for years: That rub-on shellac/drying oil finishes make fantastic finishes for musical instruments. Back from the days of Stradivarius who used oil finishes with adjuncts dried in the sun, through the 1800's when furniture and musical instruments were all finished with French polish and shellac...these finishes have a long history of durability and quality sound.

                        People clamor for nitrocellulose finishes over polyester these days....but both of those type finishes were created for reasons of economy and mass production rather than for their superiority in protecting and enhancing the looks and sound of a quality musical instrument. Nitro came along in the late 1920's when factories first discovered that spray finishing was faster/cheaper than the older French polish shellac finish. Martin guitars built before 1928 are all shellac finished, for example.

                        Nitro does age better than poly, but it's a volatile compound that isn't stable.
                        You can see this in old guitars because it hardens, crystalizes, yellows and shatters (finish checks) over time. Oil and shellac finished guitars don't do this. Oil and shellac encorporates and bonds into the wood over time in a way that enhances an old musical instrument, instead of separating and flaking away.

                        People who "relic" guitars know that you just can't "relic" convincingly a modern poly finished "dipped in plastic" guitar. It never looks right. Well all I have to say is that those aging qualities that vintage guitar buffs prefer in nitro...it's all the more so with shellac and oil based rub on finishes.
                        Originally Posted by DToad:

                        Lets face it- today's GOP is all about the richest one percent exploiting the dumbest fifty percent.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          A question. Do you use grain filler if finishing with Tru oil?

                          Surfy


                          This interests me a lot. I got tru oil + tru oil sealer. I read somewhere that some people think that applying tru oil straight on wood allows the oil to soak into the wood and make it sound more dead.
                          <div class="signaturecontainer">One, two, five!<br />
                          <a href="http://acapella.harmony-central.com/showthread.php?t=2002564" target="_blank">Rangemaster build thread</a><br />
                          <a href="http://acapella.harmony-central.com/showthread.php?t=2585178" target="_blank">Telecaster build thread</a></div>

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I think the "Tru oil revolution" is a phenomenon that reflects what I've been discovering for years: That rub-on shellac/drying oil finishes make fantastic finishes for musical instruments. Back from the days of Stradivarius who used oil finishes with adjuncts dried in the sun, through the 1800's when furniture and musical instruments were all finished with French polish and shellac...these finishes have a long history of durability and quality sound.

                            People clamor for nitrocellulose finishes over polyester these days....but both of those type finishes were created for reasons of economy and mass production rather than for their superiority in protecting and enhancing the looks and sound of a quality musical instrument. Nitro came along in the late 1920's when factories first discovered that spray finishing was faster/cheaper than the older French polish shellac finish. Martin guitars built before 1928 are all shellac finished, for example.

                            Nitro does age better than poly, but it's a volatile compound that isn't stable.
                            You can see this in old guitars because it hardens, crystalizes, yellows and shatters (finish checks) over time. Oil and shellac finished guitars don't do this. Oil and shellac encorporates and bonds into the wood over time in a way that enhances an old musical instrument, instead of separating and flaking away.

                            People who "relic" guitars know that you just can't "relic" convincingly a modern poly finished "dipped in plastic" guitar. It never looks right. Well all I have to say is that those aging qualities that vintage guitar buffs prefer in nitro...it's all the more so with shellac and oil based rub on finishes.


                            All though I don't have an oil finish, I agree completely with your post. I believe resonance is important therefore thickness of finish is important so as to not choke the guitar as much as possible. It's just simply logical that an oil finish would be the best for this. But between nitro and poly I'd take the thinner one..which 98% of the time will be nitro.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Anyone else has any idea whether it is better to seal the wood (swamp ash) or not to seal it?
                              <div class="signaturecontainer">One, two, five!<br />
                              <a href="http://acapella.harmony-central.com/showthread.php?t=2002564" target="_blank">Rangemaster build thread</a><br />
                              <a href="http://acapella.harmony-central.com/showthread.php?t=2585178" target="_blank">Telecaster build thread</a></div>

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