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  • Steinberger Spirit R-Trem

    I just bought a used Steinberger spirit guitar to see what I thought of it, and I really like the guitar, but the R Trem leaves much to be desired.

    In order to set it up so that you can use the locking feature, when you unlock it, it is so stiff it is almost unusable. I played around with it a bit and if you back off on the master tune knob and let the trem

  • #2
    they aren't the greatest. I just don't use mine much, leave it locked most of the time.

    the posts for the knife edges will wear out soon.....don't worry about the angle, they'll wear out anyway.

    I think the 'real' steinie trem drops right in, but they're really expensive.
    Les Paul's & Strats, Fender Super & Blues Junior, Fulltone pedals & a whole lot of stuff that I don't use and can't seem to let go....

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    • #3
      I can

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      • kingjimmy
        kingjimmy commented
        Editing a comment

        thank 4 your post.

        i am trying to set up action on my spirit steiny,  did u have pdf of instructions??

        thanks to reply...

         

        jimmy


    • #4

      I think the 'real' steinie trem drops right in, but they're really expensive.


      Yes, they are expensive (see above) and no, they won't drop in. They use a different routing. There are only two things you could build into a Spirit: another R-Trem, or a Fixed Bridge.

      Bernd

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      • #5
        It looks to me like the OP understands this, but many people seem to believe that the spring-knob is to adjust the spring-tension/action of the tremolo.

        Of course that knob's real purpose it to allow the player to bring the tremolo back to a floating position that is the same was the locked position. Locked is where the guitar should be tuned--the the lock is released, and the knob is adjusted to bring the trem back to "Zero".

        As far as the spring-rate (feel) is concerned, I imagine someone out there must have found replacements springs with different rates that will fit, but I don't know about them.

        I keep mine locked.
        There's only two things I'm afraid of---women, and the the C7+9+11 Chord.

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        • #6
          The trem on mine seems pretty good.

          Having trouble finding a hex key that'll let me sort the intonation though.

          Punk as f**k since 1976

          Endorser and player of "Vintage" guitars:

          http://www.jhs.co.uk/vintageelectric.html








          Originally Posted by Ratae Coritanorum


          Marc man, I think you possibly rock TOO MUCH



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          • #7
            The trem on mine seems pretty good.

            Having trouble finding a hex key that'll let me sort the intonation though.



            I knew that in the UK there was a bit of resistance to full integration with the EU, but don't you have metric Allen (hex) wrenches over there?

            If my memory is correct it's a .5 mm wrench (FYI: my memory is rarely correct)
            There's only two things I'm afraid of---women, and the the C7+9+11 Chord.

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            • #8
              I knew that in the UK there was a bit of resistance to full integration with the EU, but don't you have metric Allen (hex) wrenches over there?

              If my memory is correct it's a .5 mm wrench (FYI: my memory is rarely correct)


              Yeah...I dunno if the actual hex bolt is knackered...I've got metric and imperial keys here, but nothing seems a good fit....

              Punk as f**k since 1976

              Endorser and player of "Vintage" guitars:

              http://www.jhs.co.uk/vintageelectric.html








              Originally Posted by Ratae Coritanorum


              Marc man, I think you possibly rock TOO MUCH



              The Plague on Myspace:
              http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...ndid=247093832

              Westway on myspace:http://www.myspace.com/westwaytotheclash

              My Soundclick page:http://www.soundclick.com/bands/page...?bandID=484650

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              • #9
                If my memory is correct it's a .5 mm wrench (FYI: my memory is rarely correct)



                Everything behind the "." is correct ;-)

                It's 1.5 mm for saddle height adjustment and the locking screw on the side.

                Bernd

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                • #10
                  To add to what Be.eM has already said, you should also check both the posts and knife edge for wear as the metal used in the construction of the R-trem isn't the greatest, which can result in damaged/ worn contact points & therefore a trem that won't float properly.

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                  • #11
                    Yeah, I'll rip it apart and check the knife edges and posts, but that can't address the main stiffness problem, and I have googled this problem and others with the R Trem have had the same problem with too stiff, unuseable trem action. I have also read somewhere online that this trem is for dives only, and you can't pull up.

                    Funny thing is with the master knob backed off a bit to where the angle of the float of the trem is leaning forward a bit, it operates much smoother and stays in tune like my floyd equipped guitars. With it locked and adjusted in both unlocked as well as locked positions, there is no back play at all, is really stiff and won't stay in tune.

                    Wierd.

                    Any of you change the posts and knife edges, and have a link to anywhere that tells how?

                    Thanks!

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                    • #12
                      Any of you change the posts and knife edges, and have a link to anywhere that tells how?


                      Your best chance is to find a Hohner dealer who also does service. As I said, they still use this trem, and they should have spare parts. If this fails, I still have a couple of old (but not bent) posts, but no knife edges.

                      Bernd

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                      • #13
                        This part isn't a surprise. Loosening the spring tension has the same effect as doing the same (or removing a spring) in a FR system. Of course you get a balance(d position) again, and of course it works also this way. You just can't lock it now.




                        This is a possible indicator for one of the problems I've mentioned above, and to understand this you must know the principle of the trem. I suspect bent posts:

                        From the (moving) top of the bridge, there's a lever that goes vertically down into the base plate. The spring presses against this lever from the back of the base. If you bend down, the lever moves towards the back of the trem, compressing the spring. If you bend up, the lever moves into the other direction. Now if the posts are bent, the whole upper part (including the lever) moves towards the bridge pickup, and there's no space left for the lever to move forwards. If you're interested, you could download an article I wrote about fixing the KB trem, which has a similar working principle. Too bad the posts I've developed for the KB trem won't work on an R-Trem, but the story will help you to understand the principles. Don't miss to download the PDF file linked in the KB trem story.




                        Your best chance is to find a Hohner dealer who also does service. As I said, they still use this trem, and they should have spare parts. If this fails, I still have a couple of old (but not bent) posts, but no knife edges.

                        Bernd


                        Thanks Bernd. I will check it out and look for a dealer, though I'm a kind of hands on guy.

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                        • #14
                          I gave up on mine also because I couldn't get it to stay in tune. It stays locked down. However, I didn't have any instructions and I didn't try all that hard.
                          "In a time of universal deceit - telling the truth is a revolutionary act."- George Orwell

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                          • #15
                            Just a thought, but if the post/knife edges are OK, then perhaps it'd be possible to create new notch in the locking-arm, which would be placed in the spot that you find the spring to have the best "feel".

                            But (assuming the above mentioned parts are OK), I like the idea of exchanging the stock-spring for one with a different rate. (still haven't found any info for this type of swap).
                            There's only two things I'm afraid of---women, and the the C7+9+11 Chord.

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