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  • Deluxe Reverb Reissue Bright Cap mod...

    So I purchased this today...

    And it is lovely after playing with it some, and the guy at the guitar shop telling me about the bright cap that's always on the Vibrato input, I have decided that I want to do away with it. Have any of you done this mod to your Deluxe Reverb RI? How easy was it? Also, does anyone know of any sites that has some info on this mod and how to do it? If it's not too difficult I will try it myself, if it is though I'll just take it back to the shop.
    Thanks guys...I'm loving this amp btw!
    <div class="signaturecontainer"><font face="Verdana"><font size="1"><b>GREAT DEALS WITH</b>: fellsilver | washuffitze3 | Verence | numbcomfortably | comfortablynumb | drasp | curehardy | NaylorStrat | sam.gans | theweight | arcarsenal72 | hivedestruction | rabott13 | angelhair0 | duderanimous<br />
    <br />
    <b>GEAR:</b><br />
    American Vintage 52 Tele | Epiphone Les Paul<br />
    Boss FV-500H | TU-2 | Timmy | Screwdriver | Monsterpiece MkIII | TimeBender<br />
    JTM-45<br />
    </font></font><br />
    <font size="3"><b><font color="Purple">GO LSU</font></b></font></div>

  • #2
    I think you just plug into input 2.
    <div class="signaturecontainer"><font size="1"><br />
    Anyway, I enjoy Hbar a great deal, and would have continued to do so had Phil not intervened.<br />
    </font></div>

    Comment


    • #3
      I think you just plug into input 2.


      I tried it, that's not what that input is for though. You have to get in there and mod something I think...
      <div class="signaturecontainer"><font face="Verdana"><font size="1"><b>GREAT DEALS WITH</b>: fellsilver | washuffitze3 | Verence | numbcomfortably | comfortablynumb | drasp | curehardy | NaylorStrat | sam.gans | theweight | arcarsenal72 | hivedestruction | rabott13 | angelhair0 | duderanimous<br />
      <br />
      <b>GEAR:</b><br />
      American Vintage 52 Tele | Epiphone Les Paul<br />
      Boss FV-500H | TU-2 | Timmy | Screwdriver | Monsterpiece MkIII | TimeBender<br />
      JTM-45<br />
      </font></font><br />
      <font size="3"><b><font color="Purple">GO LSU</font></b></font></div>

      Comment


      • #4
        I think bright cap might be the wrong term...any suggestions?
        <div class="signaturecontainer"><font face="Verdana"><font size="1"><b>GREAT DEALS WITH</b>: fellsilver | washuffitze3 | Verence | numbcomfortably | comfortablynumb | drasp | curehardy | NaylorStrat | sam.gans | theweight | arcarsenal72 | hivedestruction | rabott13 | angelhair0 | duderanimous<br />
        <br />
        <b>GEAR:</b><br />
        American Vintage 52 Tele | Epiphone Les Paul<br />
        Boss FV-500H | TU-2 | Timmy | Screwdriver | Monsterpiece MkIII | TimeBender<br />
        JTM-45<br />
        </font></font><br />
        <font size="3"><b><font color="Purple">GO LSU</font></b></font></div>

        Comment


        • #5
          It's been a while but I seem to remember reading that many people simply snip the bright cap (C10 I think) out of the circuit. I'd hold out for more expert advice, though, or check over at FDP.

          Comment


          • #6
            It's been a while but I seem to remember reading that many people simply snip the bright cap (C10 I think) out of the circuit. I'd hold out for more expert advice, though, or check over at FDP.


            Yeah I remember hearing it was something like that...not too complicated. I just went and played it some more and when clean it sounds ok but the real problem comes when I turn on my fulldrive or TS-9 while plugged into the vibrato input. The normal input sounds ok though...it's mostly the vibrato input.

            oh and what's FDP?

            Thanks.
            <div class="signaturecontainer"><font face="Verdana"><font size="1"><b>GREAT DEALS WITH</b>: fellsilver | washuffitze3 | Verence | numbcomfortably | comfortablynumb | drasp | curehardy | NaylorStrat | sam.gans | theweight | arcarsenal72 | hivedestruction | rabott13 | angelhair0 | duderanimous<br />
            <br />
            <b>GEAR:</b><br />
            American Vintage 52 Tele | Epiphone Les Paul<br />
            Boss FV-500H | TU-2 | Timmy | Screwdriver | Monsterpiece MkIII | TimeBender<br />
            JTM-45<br />
            </font></font><br />
            <font size="3"><b><font color="Purple">GO LSU</font></b></font></div>

            Comment


            • #7
              Anyone know what FDP is? (or have any advice towards my original post?)

              EDIT: I figured out what FDP is. Still haven't found an answer to my question though....
              <div class="signaturecontainer"><font face="Verdana"><font size="1"><b>GREAT DEALS WITH</b>: fellsilver | washuffitze3 | Verence | numbcomfortably | comfortablynumb | drasp | curehardy | NaylorStrat | sam.gans | theweight | arcarsenal72 | hivedestruction | rabott13 | angelhair0 | duderanimous<br />
              <br />
              <b>GEAR:</b><br />
              American Vintage 52 Tele | Epiphone Les Paul<br />
              Boss FV-500H | TU-2 | Timmy | Screwdriver | Monsterpiece MkIII | TimeBender<br />
              JTM-45<br />
              </font></font><br />
              <font size="3"><b><font color="Purple">GO LSU</font></b></font></div>

              Comment


              • #8
                I did it on mine. If i remember right its a resistor, not a cap. Basically the amp comes stock in a permanent bright always on state...really annoying and makes it more Silverface sounding than Blackface. Simply remove it and it will be a little bit warmer, getting rid of that high end nastyness. Either remove it or wire it to a toggle if you still want to be able to use the other setting (dont know why one would tho=)

                Now, its tricky to get to as its on the PCB that allthe pots are mounted to. You have to remove all the pots and then remove the PCB from the panel. Was a bit of a pain but worth it.

                You should be able to find info on the web...google it.

                BTW, congrats on the purchase and make sure not to plug in to a original Deluxe Reverb....you'll go WTF, and now you need $3000

                Comment


                • #9
                  I did it on mine. If i remember right its a resistor, not a cap. Basically the amp comes stock in a permanent bright always on state...really annoying and makes it more Silverface sounding than Blackface. Simply remove it and it will be a little bit warmer, getting rid of that high end nastyness. Either remove it or wire it to a toggle if you still want to be able to use the other setting (dont know why one would tho=)

                  Now, its tricky to get to as its on the PCB that allthe pots are mounted to. You have to remove all the pots and then remove the PCB from the panel. Was a bit of a pain but worth it.

                  You should be able to find info on the web...google it.

                  Yeah I've been googling it for the past 3 or 4 hours (off and on) and all I can find is people sparatically talking about doing it, nothing with actual info on doing. I guess I'm just going to have to take it to the tech.
                  <div class="signaturecontainer"><font face="Verdana"><font size="1"><b>GREAT DEALS WITH</b>: fellsilver | washuffitze3 | Verence | numbcomfortably | comfortablynumb | drasp | curehardy | NaylorStrat | sam.gans | theweight | arcarsenal72 | hivedestruction | rabott13 | angelhair0 | duderanimous<br />
                  <br />
                  <b>GEAR:</b><br />
                  American Vintage 52 Tele | Epiphone Les Paul<br />
                  Boss FV-500H | TU-2 | Timmy | Screwdriver | Monsterpiece MkIII | TimeBender<br />
                  JTM-45<br />
                  </font></font><br />
                  <font size="3"><b><font color="Purple">GO LSU</font></b></font></div>

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yeah I've been googling it for the past 3 or 4 hours (off and on) and all I can find is people sparatically talking about doing it, nothing with actual info on doing. I guess I'm just going to have to take it to the tech.

                    ask what he'll charge tho cause it really is only cutting off one leg of a component! I'll see if I can find the info again!

                    Comment


                    • #11

                      BTW, congrats on the purchase and make sure not to plug in to a original Deluxe Reverb....you'll go WTF, and now you need $3000

                      I laughed when I first read it, but then I cried...I will just have to avoid all Vintage DR's...honestly though I've been so happy with my Hot Rod (Deluxe), especially after I replaced the tubes. I may still play it more than my new Deluxe Reverb RI...If I could only get the Vibrato input on the DR a little warmer...
                      <div class="signaturecontainer"><font face="Verdana"><font size="1"><b>GREAT DEALS WITH</b>: fellsilver | washuffitze3 | Verence | numbcomfortably | comfortablynumb | drasp | curehardy | NaylorStrat | sam.gans | theweight | arcarsenal72 | hivedestruction | rabott13 | angelhair0 | duderanimous<br />
                      <br />
                      <b>GEAR:</b><br />
                      American Vintage 52 Tele | Epiphone Les Paul<br />
                      Boss FV-500H | TU-2 | Timmy | Screwdriver | Monsterpiece MkIII | TimeBender<br />
                      JTM-45<br />
                      </font></font><br />
                      <font size="3"><b><font color="Purple">GO LSU</font></b></font></div>

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        ask what he'll charge tho cause it really is only cutting off one leg of a component! I'll see if I can find the info again!


                        thanks man, when he mentioned it when I bought the amp it kinda sounded like he might do it for free.
                        Thanks again for your help, I feel like I've been going in circles trying to find info on this thing.
                        <div class="signaturecontainer"><font face="Verdana"><font size="1"><b>GREAT DEALS WITH</b>: fellsilver | washuffitze3 | Verence | numbcomfortably | comfortablynumb | drasp | curehardy | NaylorStrat | sam.gans | theweight | arcarsenal72 | hivedestruction | rabott13 | angelhair0 | duderanimous<br />
                        <br />
                        <b>GEAR:</b><br />
                        American Vintage 52 Tele | Epiphone Les Paul<br />
                        Boss FV-500H | TU-2 | Timmy | Screwdriver | Monsterpiece MkIII | TimeBender<br />
                        JTM-45<br />
                        </font></font><br />
                        <font size="3"><b><font color="Purple">GO LSU</font></b></font></div>

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Here it is:

                          The circuit board that all the pots are mounted to holds the 'bright cap' and a
                          few other goodies. The bright cap is designated C10 on the circuit board and it is found between the #2 jack on the Vibrato channel and the volume control. You can take it out (or disconnect 1 leg) but I prefer putting in a smaller value like 43 pf or 39 pf. But what will really help this channel is changing the 'slope' resistor, which is R18 and located around the treble pot. Change it from the stock 100K to 82K (if it makes the amp too dark for your taste, try a 91K). That will solve most of your problem.

                          Here is the link http://www.blueguitar.org/new/schem/fender/modnotes/drri_mod.txt

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Great, thanks...now this is going to sound weird but...what do I need to unscrew to get a look at the circuit board? I honestly probably won't do this mod, but I at least wanna have a look at everything
                            <div class="signaturecontainer"><font face="Verdana"><font size="1"><b>GREAT DEALS WITH</b>: fellsilver | washuffitze3 | Verence | numbcomfortably | comfortablynumb | drasp | curehardy | NaylorStrat | sam.gans | theweight | arcarsenal72 | hivedestruction | rabott13 | angelhair0 | duderanimous<br />
                            <br />
                            <b>GEAR:</b><br />
                            American Vintage 52 Tele | Epiphone Les Paul<br />
                            Boss FV-500H | TU-2 | Timmy | Screwdriver | Monsterpiece MkIII | TimeBender<br />
                            JTM-45<br />
                            </font></font><br />
                            <font size="3"><b><font color="Purple">GO LSU</font></b></font></div>

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              pull out the chassis first...then unscrew all the knobs from the panel.
                              can't recall what needs to be removed after that to get to the cap but the board wont come lose from unscrewing the knobs...if i recall!

                              Unplug the amp first and dont poke around the big caps etc.

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