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Taking graphics off a pedal?


p0lymath

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Has anyone done it before? My friend's aunt wants to paint my Vexter Box of Rock but I'm not really sure how to go about removing the current graphics without damaging the enclosure (then again I don't know how easy/hard it'd be to damage the enclosure :lol:).

As far as I can tell it's just a screen-printed graphic. Someone suggested delicately using a razor blade but I want to hear some other options before I try anything related to sharp objects.

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it might come off with a solvent, but you'd probably need to know what kind of ink it is.


lacquer thinner works on a lot of stuff.



Yeah, I was thinking I could use something like that, but I'd definitely have to know more about it before I'd be okay with messing with chemicals.

I've had some mishaps with acetone in the past. :facepalm:

Although I could always try something in small spots to see first. Same with the sandpaper.

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Yeah, I was thinking I could use something like that, but I'd definitely have to know more about it before I'd be okay with messing with chemicals.


I've had some mishaps with acetone in the past.
:facepalm:

Although I could always try something in small spots to see first. Same with the sandpaper.



for short term exposure i don't think lacquer thinner is as bad as acetone.... it's still not good for you. it takes longer to evaporate. best work out doors and wear gloves.

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This is an old car modeling trick I remember people using, but to remove paint on a plastic car model, you spray it with oven cleaner. This should take off the paint but not damage the plastic itself. I would imagine it would work on a pedal too, but I haven't tried it myself.

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Do NOT SAND IT OFF!.

Try to remove all the guts form the pedal so you are left with the enclosure only. Use some fine / extra fine steel wool and wet sand the screen print off of the pedal. You could use something stronger then water if you like. Laquer Thinner or Paint thinner will do nicely.

Steel wool will not scratch the pedal enclosure to all hell like sand paper will. Once the new artwork is completed you will need to clear coat it so it doesnt chip right off by looking at it. There are a bazillion options in the clear coat world.

In regards to clear coat technique one thing you should do is wait a liberal amount of time in between coats and lightly "sand" with afore mentioned steel wool. Do not use a lot of pressure. You are just creating a surface for the layers to bond. This will give you a chalky look. Dust the pedal off and reapply second coat. Baking the paint at very low temperature will strengthen the coating. For a small pedal like a Zvex even placing it under a desk lamp ("about 12") over night will help strengthen the coating.

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Do NOT SAND IT OFF!.


Try to remove all the guts form the pedal so you are left with the enclosure only. Use some fine / extra fine steel wool and wet sand the screen print off of the pedal. You could use something stronger then water if you like. Laquer Thinner or Paint thinner will do nicely.


Steel wool will not scratch the pedal enclosure to all hell like sand paper will. Once the new artwork is completed you will need to clear coat it so it doesnt chip right off by looking at it. There are a bazillion options in the clear coat world.


In regards to clear coat technique one thing you should do is wait a liberal amount of time in between coats and lightly "sand" with afore mentioned steel wool. Do not use a lot of pressure. You are just creating a surface for the layers to bond. This will give you a chalky look. Dust the pedal off and reapply second coat. Baking the paint at very low temperature will strengthen the coating. For a small pedal like a Zvex even placing it under a desk lamp ("about 12") over night will help strengthen the coating.



I'd say this is generally good advice unless you can find out what type of paint or screening ZVex uses and use the appropriate stripper / solvent to remove it.

A couple of minor points: Technically, sanding with steel wool is still sanding, and depending on what grade of SW you use, it can still scratch. :poke: And if you're going to use steel wool, I'd recommend opting for the synthetic kind - it tends to not leave small pieces of metal particles behind. If you DO use steel wool, make sure you clear those off completely before doing the next coat of paint as SAL suggested. And use a fine grade (000-0000) to help prevent scratches.

Personally, I'd try hitting it with lacquer thinner and (synthetic) steel wool (or Scotchbrite pads) as Brian and SAL suggested. Do it with gloves on, outdoors (good ventilation is important - don't be breathing that stuff) and DON'T SMOKE while doing it. Follow a few common sense safety precautions and there's no reason why you can't use solvents safely. I can't imagine it would take more than 15-30 minutes to get it completely cleaned off. :idk:

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And if you're going to use steel wool, I'd recommend opting for the synthetic kind - it tends to not leave small pieces of metal particles behind. If you DO use steel wool, make sure you clear those off completely before doing the next coat of paint as SAL suggested. And use a fine grade (000-0000) to help prevent scratches.


Personally, I'd try hitting it with lacquer thinner and (synthetic) steel wool (or Scotchbrite pads) as Brian and SAL suggested. Do it with gloves on, outdoors (good ventilation is important - don't be breathing that stuff) and DON'T SMOKE while doing it. Follow a few common sense safety precautions and there's no reason why you can't use solvents safely. I can't imagine it would take more than 15-30 minutes to get it completely cleaned off.
:idk:



Aside form doing custom car / motorcycle finishes in my day and countless projects like this at work I just did this to a pedal of mine...

Stripped like your 17 year old mom at the *dance* club.

86b7ef20.jpg

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