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Noob soldering questions.


Pedaltones

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Ok, so I've decided that since I'm a big boy now and by golly jeepers it's time to learn how to tie my own shoelaces and pack my own lunches.

I've bought a 50w temp-controllable station, patch cabling and have ordered Hicon plugs. I don't want to use the lead-free solder as I've read it has a higher melting point and is more difficult to work with.

I've watched many resources on Soldering for Dummies 101 but I can't find any recommendations on what size solder wire is best for patch cables.

26AWG is recommended for finer work on guitar electronics so would this mean 24 AWG or 22 AWG for guitar patch cables which are less delicate or just get 26 AWG for both eventualities ?

I've read 62/36/2 Sn/Pb/Ag is the best stuff for audio. What is the special juju/mojo/what-have-you of the 2% Silver solder? Does it improve signal conductivity or just lower melting temperature? Or is the Eutectic solder just as good conductivity-wise and in fact better for noobs because you are less likely to make a cold joint?

Finally, after everything is hopefully soldered and working, when putting away my iron should I store the iron with the tip tinned or just wiped clean?

Let the hazing begin.


Thanks

A greatful noob.








tldr - what size solder wire is most appropriate to use for soldering patch cables?
Should I leave the iron tip tinned when finished soldering and putting away the iron for a long time?




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inb4 gtfo/stfu noob redface.gif

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Don't make it complex... just solder it. Whatever you are talking about won't affect the sound in any way if its soldered properly. Not reading all that {censored}.

If these are 'patch' cables and not 'instrument' cables then the different wire gauges will make no difference. In the mathematical world, wire impedance is a function of length where wires are modeled as basically a modified r/c/l circuit where distance is the independent variable. So it won't make a difference unless your cable is long as {censored}. The only other reason to use a thicker wire would be if there was so much current that heat would be an issue. That's generally only an issue with speakers.


okay i read some of that {censored}. tl;dr version:

Your amp, speakers, pedals, guitar, pickups will make 99.99% of the difference. This will make up the remaining percentage.

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Don't make it complex... just solder it. Whatever you are talking about won't affect the sound in any way if its soldered properly. Not reading all that {censored}.

If these are 'patch' cables and not 'instrument' cables then the different wire gauges will make no difference. In the mathematical world, wire impedance is a function of length where wires are modeled as basically a modified r/c/l circuit where distance is the independent variable. So it won't make a difference unless your cable is long as {censored}. The only other reason to use a thicker wire would be if there was so much current that heat would be an issue. That's generally only an issue with speakers.


okay i read some of that {censored}. tl;dr version:

Your amp, speakers, pedals, guitar, pickups will make 99.99% of the difference. This will make up the remaining percentage.

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Quote Originally Posted by Krallum View Post
Don't make it complex... just solder it. Whatever you are talking about won't affect the sound in any way if its soldered properly. Not reading all that {censored}.

If these are 'patch' cables and not 'instrument' cables then the different wire gauges will make no difference. In the mathematical world, wire impedance is a function of length where wires are modeled as basically a modified r/c/l circuit where distance is the independent variable. The only other reason to use a thicker wire would be if there was so much current that heat would be an issue. That's generally only an issue with speakers.


okay i read some of that {censored}
Thanks for taking the time to read some but I am wondering about the solder wire gauge that's easiest to work with, not cable wire gauge.

I will do a tldr edit.
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Quote Originally Posted by Krallum View Post
Don't make it complex... just solder it. Whatever you are talking about won't affect the sound in any way if its soldered properly. Not reading all that {censored}.

If these are 'patch' cables and not 'instrument' cables then the different wire gauges will make no difference. In the mathematical world, wire impedance is a function of length where wires are modeled as basically a modified r/c/l circuit where distance is the independent variable. The only other reason to use a thicker wire would be if there was so much current that heat would be an issue. That's generally only an issue with speakers.


okay i read some of that {censored}
Thanks for taking the time to read some but I am wondering about the solder wire gauge that's easiest to work with, not cable wire gauge.

I will do a tldr edit.
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Quote Originally Posted by 1001gear View Post
The skinny one. Tin all the contacts and you won't need much more to make a good joint. Those crab things with the clamps and magnifying glass will come in handy too.

So that's the 26 AWG solder for guitar cables. Thanks.

What about after I've finished with the iron- should I tin the iron tip before putting it away or just wipe it clean if you don't mind my prying?
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Quote Originally Posted by 1001gear View Post
The skinny one. Tin all the contacts and you won't need much more to make a good joint. Those crab things with the clamps and magnifying glass will come in handy too.

So that's the 26 AWG solder for guitar cables. Thanks.

What about after I've finished with the iron- should I tin the iron tip before putting it away or just wipe it clean if you don't mind my prying?
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Personally, I like to 18 or 20awg solder for those types of connectors, probably because the flux flows out of it a little better and I can work faster -- but really, it doesn't matter. 26awg will be fine. The biggest mistake noobs make is using too much solder.

99% of the stuff in the world was soldered with straight 60/40 Sn/Pb. 63/37 is a super tiny bit easier to work with because you don't have to worry as much about cold-solder joints. Anything else - i.e. 2% Ag - frankly, I wouldn't bother.

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Personally, I like to 18 or 20awg solder for those types of connectors, probably because the flux flows out of it a little better and I can work faster -- but really, it doesn't matter. 26awg will be fine. The biggest mistake noobs make is using too much solder.

99% of the stuff in the world was soldered with straight 60/40 Sn/Pb. 63/37 is a super tiny bit easier to work with because you don't have to worry as much about cold-solder joints. Anything else - i.e. 2% Ag - frankly, I wouldn't bother.

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Quote Originally Posted by Pedaltones View Post
So that's the 26 AWG solder for guitar cables. Thanks.

What about after I've finished with the iron- should I tin the iron tip before putting it away or just wipe it clean if you don't mind my prying?
I have a roll of Radio Shack 60/40 .062 which is roughly the diameter of uncooked Spaghetti and a roll of 60/40 .032 which is half that diameter. The only time I'd go bigger than that is to make a ground puddle on the back of a pot and it's been years since I needed to do that.
As to tinning the iron after use, I do. I think I read it somewhere. Wipe clean, tin, wipe to a shine and hang it up.

Oh and one thing I remember about silver solder is it refuses to melt for removal.
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Quote Originally Posted by Pedaltones View Post
So that's the 26 AWG solder for guitar cables. Thanks.

What about after I've finished with the iron- should I tin the iron tip before putting it away or just wipe it clean if you don't mind my prying?
I have a roll of Radio Shack 60/40 .062 which is roughly the diameter of uncooked Spaghetti and a roll of 60/40 .032 which is half that diameter. The only time I'd go bigger than that is to make a ground puddle on the back of a pot and it's been years since I needed to do that.
As to tinning the iron after use, I do. I think I read it somewhere. Wipe clean, tin, wipe to a shine and hang it up.

Oh and one thing I remember about silver solder is it refuses to melt for removal.
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I always focused on the type of wire rather than the size... I mean, you're melting it. Thicker will just last longer.

My advice is tin the {censored} out of what you're about to solder. Don't slop it all over, but if you put enough, you won'e even need to hold solder while you're soldering. You can hold the iron in one hand and one of the contacts in the other which makes is waaaaaaay easier.

However, cables are easier than guitar innards. The back of pots are particularly troublesome. However, it can be done with some ease once you get the steps down. Sand the back a bit, drip some solder on there, tin the wire, re-liquify the puddle on the pot, stick the wire in, boom.

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I always focused on the type of wire rather than the size... I mean, you're melting it. Thicker will just last longer.

My advice is tin the {censored} out of what you're about to solder. Don't slop it all over, but if you put enough, you won'e even need to hold solder while you're soldering. You can hold the iron in one hand and one of the contacts in the other which makes is waaaaaaay easier.

However, cables are easier than guitar innards. The back of pots are particularly troublesome. However, it can be done with some ease once you get the steps down. Sand the back a bit, drip some solder on there, tin the wire, re-liquify the puddle on the pot, stick the wire in, boom.

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For working on pedal stuff, I prefer smaller gauge solder. Everything else doesn't seem to matter. There's some good how-to videos on youtube for soldering. Proper technique makes a world of difference (i.e. applying the solder to a heated component not the tip of the iron, etc.)

For patch cables, some heat shrink tubing is a good line of defense against shorts.

Good luck.

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For working on pedal stuff, I prefer smaller gauge solder. Everything else doesn't seem to matter. There's some good how-to videos on youtube for soldering. Proper technique makes a world of difference (i.e. applying the solder to a heated component not the tip of the iron, etc.)

For patch cables, some heat shrink tubing is a good line of defense against shorts.

Good luck.

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I just use the thin solder for everything. Just make sure it's rosin core solder so your join doesn't get oxidized internally. I've never heard any appreciable difference with silver solder. Just make sure you heat the material you're soldering and don't put the solder directly on the iron except initially to get it to conduct heat to the joint. Also try to make as good of a mechanical connection between the parts as possible to prevent it moving and disturbing the joint (and also freeing up your hands).

But as for the size, you can always apply more with thinner solder. You can't apply less with thicker solder.

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I just use the thin solder for everything. Just make sure it's rosin core solder so your join doesn't get oxidized internally. I've never heard any appreciable difference with silver solder. Just make sure you heat the material you're soldering and don't put the solder directly on the iron except initially to get it to conduct heat to the joint. Also try to make as good of a mechanical connection between the parts as possible to prevent it moving and disturbing the joint (and also freeing up your hands).

But as for the size, you can always apply more with thinner solder. You can't apply less with thicker solder.

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