Members briansr Posted January 23, 2013 Members Share Posted January 23, 2013 hi there.. though this might help/encourage some folks out there to pop the hood on your unit if its giving you trouble, since i haven't found any good tutorial/ pic guide on how to correct faulty switches on these i was actually surprised how crappy the switching mechanism really is, its definitely not made to be gigged (unless you are EXTREMELY careful and step on it with silk socks)... less take the common beatings of the road.. as expected, it crapped out a couple of days before a show.. so this is more of a quick/temporal fix ... i plan on replacing all the switches with metal heavy duty SPST momentaries my unit had 2 non responsive switches (record /tap) both totally dead, one of them was even coming loose, i found that the nut that holds the switch in place (from inside) came loose on both cases, and the spring in one switch was stuck, and on the other was totally missing (never found it) first these were the tools i used not pictured (allen wrech for the switch base) unscrewing the botom plate removing the bottom plate is kinda tricky, you have to push it to the side first and work it. then you need you deatach the PCB of the row of the switches youll be working on (make sure you do this on a flat/stable surface since there are some small moving parts that can fall and easily get lost) be gentle, you dont want to snap any of the holders, or worst the board itself below a couple more shots/angles of the switching mechanism here a pic of the switches (bottom and up) ..dont mess with this unless you are de-soldering and replacing them with new switches.. also.. dont try to remove the PCB unless you know what your doing.. the plug/connector seems to be glued-in/sealed tightly i found that even though the mounted switches are not the best for job, they were still responsive and working.. and the issues (at least mine) came from these fuckers (pictured below) the spring and the actioner that makes contact with the mounted switch so.. anyways, hope this helps here goes a large gut pics for you geeks : guts PD: for replacement instructions, ive found little specific info, maybe someone else can chime in here with more experience, the first thing to consider is the limited space betwen the chasis and the PCB, ive seen most DIY'ers using these for DL4, .. specs: Rated 4 Amps / 125 Vac. anybody have actual experience with these on M13/M9? find it here: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-142/MOMENTARY-PUSHBUTTON-SPST-N.O.-4-AMP/1.html secondly diagram instructions on the wiring, again this one is for the DL4.. i dont see how it could be much different for the new M-series, but any input is appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WAWBanks Posted January 23, 2013 Members Share Posted January 23, 2013 Thanks for this. Useful info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members goodhonk Posted January 23, 2013 Members Share Posted January 23, 2013 WAWBanks wrote: Thanks for this. Useful info! worth at least one kudos, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members chrisjnyc Posted January 24, 2013 Members Share Posted January 24, 2013 How did you wire up the new switches? Remove the PCBs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members macadood Posted January 24, 2013 Members Share Posted January 24, 2013 awesome brian sr. any ideas on how to fix a faulty output socket? my mono out just died on me for no reason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members briansr Posted January 24, 2013 Author Members Share Posted January 24, 2013 i havent replace the switches yet... i just got them working as they come... but ill get on that later.. hopefully by then someone will shed some light on that i assume you would need first: remove the current switches ( removing the nut that tightens the allen-screw that holds the chrome base in place)unsolder with care the mounted PCB switches.. with a soldering iron install the new SPST metal swiches through the chrome base that holds the LED,solder the new SPST end connections to the PCB( not 100% sure about the diagram on the original post.. since its not for the Mseries, but its likely to work)get it all together again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members goodhonk Posted January 24, 2013 Members Share Posted January 24, 2013 Line6, only as good as the warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members chrisjnyc Posted January 24, 2013 Members Share Posted January 24, 2013 I have used my M9 for about 3 years without a problem. Yea, Line 6 has some issues with bad switchesDOA pedals, but I don't think its a high percentage. Look how many DL4 pedals are out there at any time. Next to the Boss DD pedal its one of the most popular delay pedals in the last 10+ years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members chrisjnyc Posted January 29, 2013 Members Share Posted January 29, 2013 briansr wrote: hi there.. though this might help/encourage some folks out there to pop the hood on your unit if its giving you trouble, since i haven't found any good tutorial/ pic guide on how to correct faulty switches on these i was actually surprised how crappy the switching mechanism really is, its definitely not made to be gigged (unless you are EXTREMELY careful and step on it with silk socks)... less take the common beatings of the road.. as expected, it crapped out a couple of days before a show.. so this is more of a quick/temporal fix ... i plan on replacing all the switches with metal heavy duty SPST momentaries my unit had 2 non responsive switches (record /tap) both totally dead, one of them was even coming loose, i found that the nut that holds the switch in place (from inside) came loose on both cases, and the spring in one switch was stuck, and on the other was totally missing (never found it) first these were the tools i used not pictured (allen wrech for the switch base) unscrewing the botom plate removing the bottom plate is kinda tricky, you have to push it to the side first and work it. then you need you deatach the PCB of the row of the switches youll be working on (make sure you do this on a flat/stable surface since there are some small moving parts that can fall and easily get lost) be gentle, you dont want to snap any of the holders, or worst the board itself below a couple more shots/angles of the switching mechanism here a pic of the switches (bottom and up) ..dont mess with this unless you are de-soldering and replacing them with new switches.. also.. dont try to remove the PCB unless you know what your doing.. the plug/connector seems to be glued-in/sealed tightly i found that even though the mounted switches are not the best for job, they were still responsive and working.. and the issues (at least mine) came from these {censored}ers (pictured below) the spring and the actioner that makes contact with the mounted switch so.. anyways, hope this helps here goes a large gut pics for you geeks : guts PD: for replacement instructions, ive found little specific info, maybe someone else can chime in here with more experience, the first thing to consider is the limited space betwen the chasis and the PCB, ive seen most DIY'ers using these for DL4, .. specs: Rated 4 Amps / 125 Vac. anybody have actual experience with these on M13/M9? find it here: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-142/MOMENTARY-PUSHBUTTON-SPST-N.O.-4-AMP/1.html secondly diagram instructions on the wiring, again this one is for the DL4.. i dont see how it could be much different for the new M-series, but any input is appreciated! How is the switch repair going? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members chrisjnyc Posted February 1, 2013 Members Share Posted February 1, 2013 No updates? Anyone have an issue with a volume drop when they use any of the FX on the M9? Mine just started acting up... damn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BooRadlee Posted September 24, 2017 Members Share Posted September 24, 2017 So, I started having the same issue with my M5 and an old MM4 recently, so I decided to take the dive and try to replace the switches. I watched a tutorial on the DL4 on Youtube and it worked perfect for the MM4. I was super pumped. Then I opened up the M5 and realized it was a completely different set up. Basically what you guys described up top. I decided since it was fucked anyways that I would try it. So I took the old switches out and in the process ended up breaking one of them, so I figured I definitely have nothing to lose. I tried using the red wire to A and black wire to D as described in the picture above. Didn't work. I tried a few different combinations and nothing worked. Finally I remembered a tutorial I found on adding a scene select mod and it showed the following solder job in the top pic. So I tried that... still didn't work, but since the A's were switched compared to the MM4, I decided to switch the black wires around and it turns out the correct combo is what you see in the bottom pic. I am so relieved!! Also, I realized that you can't use the switch casing that the old switch was in. Unless you maybe drill out the hole, which I may attempt. It also looks like you will have to hot glue the pcb board to the bottom of the footswitches in order to get the lights aligned. Aside from that, it works and I could care less how it looks. Anyways, there is your answer! You're welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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