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  • M13/M9/M5 DIY switch repair (images)

    hi there.. though this might help/encourage some folks out there to pop the hood on your unit if its giving you trouble, since i haven't found any good tutorial/ pic guide on how to correct faulty switches on these

    i was actually surprised how crappy the switching mechanism really is, its definitely not made to be gigged (unless you are EXTREMELY careful and step on it with silk socks)... less take the common beatings of the road.. as expected, it crapped out a couple of days before a show.. so this is more of a quick/temporal fix ... i plan on replacing all the switches with metal heavy duty SPST momentaries

    my unit had 2 non responsive switches (record /tap) both totally dead, one of them was even coming loose, i found that the nut that holds the switch in place (from inside) came loose on both cases, and the spring in one switch was stuck, and on the other was totally missing (never found it)

    first these were the tools i used
    tools
    not pictured (allen wrech for the switch base)

     

    unscrewing the botom plate

    screws

    removing the bottom plate is kinda tricky, you have to push it to the side first and work it.

    then you need you deatach the PCB of the row of the switches youll be working on
    (make sure you do this on a flat/stable surface since there are some small moving parts that can fall and easily get lost)
    pcb 

     be gentle, you dont want to snap any of the holders, or worst the board itself

    below a couple more shots/angles of the switching mechanism
    angle

    angle2

    here a pic of the switches (bottom and up) ..
    dont mess with this unless you are de-soldering and replacing them with new switches.. also.. dont try to remove the PCB unless you know what your doing.. the plug/connector seems to be glued-in/sealed tightly

    mounted switches

    i found that even though the mounted switches are not the best for job, they were still responsive and working.. and the issues (at least mine) came from these ****************ers (pictured below) the spring and the actioner that makes contact with the mounted switch
    ****************ers

    so.. anyways, hope this helps
    here goes a large gut pics for you geeks : guts


    PD:
    for replacement instructions, ive found little specific info, maybe someone else can chime in here with more experience, 

    the first thing to consider is the limited space betwen the chasis and the PCB, ive seen most DIY'ers using these for DL4, .. specs: Rated 4 Amps / 125 Vac.  anybody have actual experience with these on M13/M9? 

    switch

    find it here:
    http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-142/MOMENTARY-PUSHBUTTON-SPST-N.O.-4-AMP/1.html


    secondly diagram instructions on the wiring, again this one is for the DL4.. i dont see how it could be much different for the new M-series, but any input is appreciated!

    howto

    Attached Files

  • #2
    Thanks for this. Useful info!
    <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Glocks/606476279369567?fref=ts"><img alt="Glocks" src="http://i.imgur.com/HTh24Oh.png"></a>

    Comment


    • goodhonk
      goodhonk commented
      Editing a comment

      WAWBanks wrote:
      Thanks for this. Useful info!

      worth at least one kudos, no?


  • #3

    How did you wire up the new switches? Remove the PCBs?

    ******For Sale*******<br><br>ZVEX SHO<br>Danelctro Cool Cat Chorus<br><br><br>http://www.harmonycentral.com/t5/Effects/ZVEX-EQD-Tremolo-midi-pedal-etc/m-p/35322845#U35322845

    Comment


    • macadood
      macadood commented
      Editing a comment

      awesome brian sr.

       

      any ideas on how to fix a faulty output socket? my mono out just died on me for no reason


    • briansr
      briansr commented
      Editing a comment

      i havent replace the switches yet...  i just got them working as they come...  
      but ill get on that later.. hopefully by then someone will shed some light on that

      i assume you would need first:

      • remove the current switches ( removing the nut that tightens the allen-screw  that holds the chrome base in place)
      • unsolder with care the mounted PCB switches..  with a soldering iron 
      • install the new SPST metal swiches through the chrome base that holds the LED,
      • solder the new SPST end connections to the PCB( not 100% sure about the diagram on the original post.. since its not for the Mseries, but its likely to work)
      • get it all together again

       


  • #4
    Line6, only as good as the warranty.

    Comment


    • chrisjnyc
      chrisjnyc commented
      Editing a comment

      I have used my M9 for about 3 years without a problem.

       

      Yea, Line 6 has some issues with bad switchesDOA pedals, but I don't think its a high percentage. Look how many DL4 pedals are out there at any time. Next to the Boss DD pedal its one of the most popular delay pedals in the last 10+ years.


  • #5

    briansr wrote:

    hi there.. though this might help/encourage some folks out there to pop the hood on your unit if its giving you trouble, since i haven't found any good tutorial/ pic guide on how to correct faulty switches on these

    i was actually surprised how crappy the switching mechanism really is, its definitely not made to be gigged (unless you are EXTREMELY careful and step on it with silk socks)... less take the common beatings of the road.. as expected, it crapped out a couple of days before a show.. so this is more of a quick/temporal fix ... i plan on replacing all the switches with metal heavy duty SPST momentaries

    my unit had 2 non responsive switches (record /tap) both totally dead, one of them was even coming loose, i found that the nut that holds the switch in place (from inside) came loose on both cases, and the spring in one switch was stuck, and on the other was totally missing (never found it)

    first these were the tools i used

    not pictured (allen wrech for the switch base)

     

    unscrewing the botom plate

     

    removing the bottom plate is kinda tricky, you have to push it to the side first and work it.

    then you need you deatach the PCB of the row of the switches youll be working on
    (make sure you do this on a flat/stable surface since there are some small moving parts that can fall and easily get lost)
     

     be gentle, you dont want to snap any of the holders, or worst the board itself

    below a couple more shots/angles of the switching mechanism



    here a pic of the switches (bottom and up) ..
    dont mess with this unless you are de-soldering and replacing them with new switches.. also.. dont try to remove the PCB unless you know what your doing.. the plug/connector seems to be glued-in/sealed tightly

     

    i found that even though the mounted switches are not the best for job, they were still responsive and working.. and the issues (at least mine) came from these ****************ers (pictured below) the spring and the actioner that makes contact with the mounted switch


    so.. anyways, hope this helps
    here goes a large gut pics for you geeks : guts


    PD:
    for replacement instructions, ive found little specific info, maybe someone else can chime in here with more experience, 

    the first thing to consider is the limited space betwen the chasis and the PCB, ive seen most DIY'ers using these for DL4, .. specs: Rated 4 Amps / 125 Vac.  anybody have actual experience with these on M13/M9? 

     

    find it here:
    http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-142/MOMENTARY-PUSHBUTTON-SPST-N.O.-4-AMP/1.html


    secondly diagram instructions on the wiring, again this one is for the DL4.. i dont see how it could be much different for the new M-series, but any input is appreciated!

     



    How is the switch repair going?

    ******For Sale*******<br><br>ZVEX SHO<br>Danelctro Cool Cat Chorus<br><br><br>http://www.harmonycentral.com/t5/Effects/ZVEX-EQD-Tremolo-midi-pedal-etc/m-p/35322845#U35322845

    Comment


    • chrisjnyc
      chrisjnyc commented
      Editing a comment

      No updates?.png" alt=":smileyfrustrated:" title="Smiley Frustrated" />

       

      Anyone have an issue with a volume drop when they use any of the FX on the M9? Mine just started acting up... damn!

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