hi there.. though this might help/encourage some folks out there to pop the hood on your unit if its giving you trouble, since i haven't found any good tutorial/ pic guide on how to correct faulty switches on these
i was actually surprised how crappy the switching mechanism really is, its definitely not made to be gigged (unless you are EXTREMELY careful and step on it with silk socks)... less take the common beatings of the road.. as expected, it crapped out a couple of days before a show.. so this is more of a quick/temporal fix ... i plan on replacing all the switches with metal heavy duty SPST momentaries
my unit had 2 non responsive switches (record /tap) both totally dead, one of them was even coming loose, i found that the nut that holds the switch in place (from inside) came loose on both cases, and the spring in one switch was stuck, and on the other was totally missing (never found it)
first these were the tools i used
not pictured (allen wrech for the switch base)
unscrewing the botom plate
removing the bottom plate is kinda tricky, you have to push it to the side first and work it.
then you need you deatach the PCB of the row of the switches youll be working on
(make sure you do this on a flat/stable surface since there are some small moving parts that can fall and easily get lost)
be gentle, you dont want to snap any of the holders, or worst the board itself
below a couple more shots/angles of the switching mechanism
here a pic of the switches (bottom and up) ..dont mess with this unless you are de-soldering and replacing them with new switches.. also.. dont try to remove the PCB unless you know what your doing.. the plug/connector seems to be glued-in/sealed tightly
i found that even though the mounted switches are not the best for job, they were still responsive and working.. and the issues (at least mine) came from these ****************ers (pictured below) the spring and the actioner that makes contact with the mounted switch
so.. anyways, hope this helps
here goes a large gut pics for you geeks : guts
for replacement instructions, ive found little specific info, maybe someone else can chime in here with more experience,
the first thing to consider is the limited space betwen the chasis and the PCB, ive seen most DIY'ers using these for DL4, .. specs: Rated 4 Amps / 125 Vac. anybody have actual experience with these on M13/M9?
secondly diagram instructions on the wiring, again this one is for the DL4.. i dont see how it could be much different for the new M-series, but any input is appreciated!