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tell me about celestion speakers


mbengs1

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this is the little i know.

 

25 watt - bright but sounds great with distortion

30 watt - rich not that clear sounding

75 watt - tight bass, clear mids and treble.

 

i'm not even sure if that's accurate. lol. i think i'd settle for 75 watters.

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Look up wattage in the dictionary.

 

1. power, as measured in watts. 2. the amount of power required to operate an electrical appliance or device.

 

Wattage has absolutely "nothing" to do with loudness or sound quality. Its simple a power/energy consumption rating.

 

You want to know about speakers you have to learn about the other rating speakers are given. The main two are

 

SPL efficiency ratings - determine loudness.

Frequency Response curve - are created by the materials used in the speaker piston that vibrate the air.

The Electromagnet - is the engine consisting of a permanent magnet and coil affixed to the cone which attracts and repels to move the cone.

 

 

Coil, Cone Thickness, Material Type, Material Composition, Spider, Frame all contribute to the tonal colorations the cone produces when it pushes against the air. For example, an acoustic guitar with a cedar top will have different tonal qualities then an acoustic with a cedar top.

 

The only real difference is the strings vibrate an acoustic guitars top and the electromagnet in a speaker vibrates the speaker cone.

 

Beyond that the speaker cab is equally essential to producing sound the same way as the chamber of an acoustic guitar is essential to making a loud rich tone. If you only had the neck and acoustic top you'd have no resonance. Add the sides and back and you have a chamber which resonates. Same thing is essential for a speaker to produce maximum tone. The acoustic chamber must be there to resonate, otherwise the speaker sounds thin.

 

Put a rich sounding speaker in an undersized cab and it will sound thin, put a Thin sounding speaker in an oversized cab and it will sound full.

This is acoustics 101 stuff you should study. You'll need to know it if you're going to be a musician who uses electronics to express his instruments tones. Knowing what and how your strings tones are influenced lets you target changes to that tone so take control over that sound production.

 

 

Distortion and frequency response are really two different categories. Its better if you separate the two and understand each independently and avoid mixing the two up.

 

Distortion comes in many categories and combinations of these categories.

 

The main categories are

 

Linear Distortion,

Bandwidth Distortion

Harmonic Distortion (Symmetrical (even) and Asymmetrical (odd))

Intermodulation Distortion

Dynamic Distortion

Temporal Distortion

Noise Distortion

Acoustic Distortion

Deliberate Distortion

Mental (psycho acoustic) Distortion

 

If you want to understand each this article isn't too tough to understand.http://www.parallelhomeaudio.net/TypesAudioDistortion.html

 

I break them down to four simple causes.

 

Electronic distortion

1. the signal is electronically distorted before it gets to the speaker.

2. The signal is electronically compressed by the speakers electromagnet.

 

Physical distortion

1. the piston physically maxes out sucking in or pushing out.

2. the cone physically produces both harmonic/inharmonic distortions that don't match the signal.

 

Its important to understand each because we associate good distortion with a combination of electronic and physical distortion.

 

For example, if we push an alnico speaker with a strong signal, the electromagnet flattens the signal in a pleasing way. If we push the cone beyond its physical limitations with too much bass it farts out and sounds awful. If we push more treble then the cone is capable of producing, the cone physically rolls off those frequencies. If we feed the cone specific frequencies that match the cones resonance it can magnify frequencies beyond what the signal is providing.

 

There's allot more to it including feeding a partially distorted signal from the amp combined with the dynamic distortions a speaker produces. Some of it can get very complex and you'd need a degree in acoustics and electronics to understand it all.

 

Knowing these complexities exist isn't necessary to play well or produce good tones. You can rely heavily on the ears and navigate your gear to produce good tones, but it can be helpful to know there are multiple ways of producing distortion and with trained ears you can decipher exactly where those distortions are originating from. As they say, you cant bake a cake without a recipe or the ingredients properly measured. Dialing up the right amounts of drive in several places in the chain from string to speaker cone is what makes a colorful sound to the ears.

 

 

 

 

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I bought Carvin BR 12s. I only have 20 watts on either of 'em so cone distortion isn't even a factor. They do clean well and do a great job with any signal distortion. With that generic but authentic sound, I can focus more on the music and zero on "awesome sound " (actually I get awesome enough sound) and facial content.

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this is the little i know.

 

25 watt - bright but sounds great with distortion

30 watt - rich not that clear sounding

75 watt - tight bass, clear mids and treble.

 

i'm not even sure if that's accurate. lol. i think i'd settle for 75 watters.

 

I have 25 watt greenbacks .... love'em !!!!!

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I had a pair of 25's back in the 70's/80's I put them in a 4X12 cab with my two Altecs. They were 1/2 as loud as the Altecs in comparison and produced mostly midrange tones. All the highs the amp could produce were lost.

 

I also put them in a 2X12 cab for awhile and while they sounded OK with a bright head like a Marshall, I lost allot of amp tone using them. The reason why allot of people like them is because they roll off the highs and convert that treble to drive. There are much better speakers out there today however, especially for the ridiculous price they're charging for those speakers now. It seems like anything old, no matter how inferior sells for 10X the price they are actually worth. I paid $30 each for them new back in the day and even then I was disappointed with them. This site is wanting $1300 dollars for speakers that sold for $120 for four back in the day. https://reverb.com/item/440681-celestion-g12m-speakers-4-matching-date-codes-pulsonic-75hz-cones?_aid=pla&pla=1&gclid=CIC-hcD3qscCFQqDfgod4FcHig Speakers have a limited lifespan and when they get this old the paper winds up drying out and start ripping up. You'd be better off buying them new and breaking them in yourself.

 

If you want British sound I'd likely choose some eminence speakers. You can easily double the amps response and have the same tones.

I have 4 of these Creambacks that came in my Marshall slant 1960 cab. http://celestion.com/product/141/g12h75_creamback/ They have an SPL of 100 which makes them very loud and I paid $400 for the cab and the speakers used at Guitar center. The only thing I had to do was replace the Grill cloth on the cab. It had that old brown burlap grill cloth that was all sagged out and faded. I put the Marshall Checker type cloth on there and it looked much better. I had some left over so I did the head to match.

 

 

 

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