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Repairing a rubbing voice coil on a speaker?


blackba

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I recently got a mesa halfback cab with the 2 EV's on the bottom and 2 C90's on the top.

 

The speakers weren't retained during shipping and while I was checking it out, I noticed that one of the speakers had a voice coil rubbing. Is there any way to adjust/repair this issue?

 

Also I was thinking of adding bolts and nuts to EV's to retain them. Is this a good idea, I might be able to find bolts where I won't have to drill out the wood?

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Originally posted by blackba

I recently got a mesa halfback cab with the 2 EV's on the bottom and 2 C90's on the top.


The speakers weren't retained during shipping and while I was checking it out, I noticed that one of the speakers had a voice coil rubbing. Is there any way to adjust/repair this issue?


Also I was thinking of adding bolts and nuts to EV's to retain them. Is this a good idea, I might be able to find bolts where I won't have to drill out the wood?

 

 

 

Is it one of the EV's rubbing? I hope not! You can't really do much about it these days because a recone will generally cost more than a new speaker. Have you ever seen T nuts? It's basically a nut you hammer into the wood and put a bolt through so you don't have to worry about it. Why are you concerned about that anyway?

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Originally posted by ss454




Is it one of the EV's rubbing? I hope not! You can't really do much about it these days because a recone will generally cost more than a new speaker. Have you ever seen T nuts? It's basically a nut you hammer into the wood and put a bolt through so you don't have to worry about it. Why are you concerned about that anyway?

 

 

Yea its an EV that is rubbing. I thought you could take the speaker apart and adjust the VC a bit.

 

I have seen the T-Nuts, but they will require drilling. Pretty much all the screws worked their way out of the EV's during shipping, so I figured the holes were pretty stripped.

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Sometimes if the screws are torqued down to hard or unevenly it can warp the frame causing coil rub.

 

Sometimes the suspension gets old & weak & sags causing coil rub. Sometimes one can rotate the speaker 180 deg & relieve rub.

 

There are several other reasons but those are the only ones I know have a possible "quick fix". Hope that helps... ;)

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Originally posted by blackba



Yea its an EV that is rubbing. I thought you could take the speaker apart and adjust the VC a bit.


I have seen the T-Nuts, but they will require drilling. Pretty much all the screws worked their way out of the EV's during shipping, so I figured the holes were pretty stripped.

No,there's certainly no way to physically adjust a VC.

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Originally posted by Dramius

Sometimes if the screws are torqued down to hard or unevenly it can warp the frame causing coil rub.


Sometimes the suspension gets old & weak & sags causing coil rub. Sometimes one can rotate the speaker 180 deg & relieve rub.


There are several other reasons but those are the only ones I know have a possible "quick fix". Hope that helps...
;)

 

I have the cab on its back right now and most of the screws are stripped. I will try standing the speaker up and rotating it and see what happens to the cone rubbing.

 

I checked into another EV speaker and they appear to be about $200 on ebay :eek:

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Originally posted by blackba



I have the cab on its back right now and most of the screws are stripped. I will try standing the speaker up and rotating it and see what happens to the cone rubbing.


I checked into another EV speaker and they appear to be about $200 on ebay
:eek:

Geez,you can get one reconed easily for under $100. Decent used 12L's usually go for $75-90.

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Originally posted by tlbonehead

Geez,you can get one reconed easily for under $100. Decent used 12L's usually go for $75-90.

 

 

I figured the reconing was about $100. If you find a used one for $75-90, let me know....

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That's why I said "I hope it isn't one of the EV's!" It might be worth it to recone one of them but the others would have been better suited for the trash bin. I LOVE EV's and I almost bought a used Mesa 4x10 guitar cab from my local GC because it had EV's in it. It was an open back and the guy said "This is one of the old Mesa's with the Jensen's in it so it's worth a lot." I looked in teh back and all 4 10's were EV's...they are worth much more than the Jensens and they only wanted $400 and it was very mint.

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Originally posted by ss454

That's why I said "I hope it isn't one of the EV's!" It might be worth it to recone one of them but the others would have been better suited for the trash bin. I LOVE EV's and I almost bought a used Mesa 4x10 guitar cab from my local GC because it had EV's in it. It was an open back and the guy said "This is one of the old Mesa's with the Jensen's in it so it's worth a lot." I looked in teh back and all 4 10's were EV's...they are worth much more than the Jensens and they only wanted $400 and it was very mint.

 

 

I found one for $120 plus shipping, so I may go with that one.

 

My only experience with EV's is the one that came stock in a marshall 30th anniversary 6101 LE. I didn't really like the EV to be honest in that combo, I thought it sounded better through my 1936 with classic lead 80's. But I am willing to give the EV's another shot, especially since the mesa halfback cab is suppose to sound killer with a mark IV, which I own.

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Originally posted by blackba



I found one for $120 plus shipping, so I may go with that one.


My only experience with EV's is the one that came stock in a marshall 30th anniversary 6101 LE. I didn't really like the EV to be honest in that combo, I thought it sounded better through my 1936 with classic lead 80's. But I am willing to give the EV's another shot, especially since the mesa halfback cab is suppose to sound killer with a mark IV, which I own.

I can see if I have any lying around . I had a deadbeat buyer one one a while back. I can't remember if I ever re-sold it.

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Originally posted by tlbonehead

I can see if I have any lying around . I had a deadbeat buyer one one a while back. I can't remember if I ever re-sold it.

 

 

That would be great. I got the cab all put back together and the speaker cone doesn't even move when power is applied. The VC is not open and still reading about 5.5ohms DC like the other good EV speaker.

 

I found a wire not soldered too, but I got that fixed. The cab doesn't sound bad with 3 speakers, but I would like to get the EV moving. The cab still measures about 7.0ohms with all the speakers installed.

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Dont those EV's have field replacable baskets? Also im sure u know this, but if u use the cab with that coil rubbing, it might make it unrepairable or short & screw your amp up.

 

 

Are those EVM12L's? for some reason ive never gotten along with them, cant dig the sound. but they are ROBUST as hell! And REEEAL heavy!

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Originally posted by Dramius

Dont those EV's have field replacable baskets? Also im sure u know this, but if u use the cab with that coil rubbing, it might make it unrepairable or short & screw your amp up.



Are those EVM12L's? for some reason ive never gotten along with them, cant dig the sound. but they are ROBUST as hell! And REEEAL heavy!

 

 

I am not worried about the speaker being unrepairable and at this point I don't think the coil is going to short, if it does than the cab will be 5.333ohms which shouldn't damage the amp on an 8ohm tap. I am taking the speaker out anyway and putting in an 8ohm G12M70.

 

I always thought the EV's were suppose to be robust, but obviously not if I got a bad one.

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Originally posted by blackba

I recently got a mesa halfback cab with the 2 EV's on the bottom and 2 C90's on the top.


The speakers weren't retained during shipping and while I was checking it out, I noticed that one of the speakers had a voice coil rubbing. Is there any way to adjust/repair this issue?


Also I was thinking of adding bolts and nuts to EV's to retain them. Is this a good idea, I might be able to find bolts where I won't have to drill out the wood?

 

 

Not really much you can do about this other than reconing. Eventually it will rub the coating off the wire and short the coil. I'd ditch the speaker before that happens, or have it reconed. You should be able to get a recone kit reasonably priced for that speaker.

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Originally posted by converge



Not really much you can do about this other than reconing. Eventually it will rub the coating off the wire and short the coil. I'd ditch the speaker before that happens, or have it reconed. You should be able to get a recone kit reasonably priced for that speaker.

 

 

The cone is not even moving so its not going to rub the Voice coil till it shorts.

 

I am just not sure what to do with it once I get another one.

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Originally posted by tlbonehead

No,there's certainly no way to physically adjust a VC.

 

 

Seems there's an article I read where you CAN reset it, with minimal potential damage.

 

I think Ted Weber wrote the article...

 

 

From: David Knechtges


I recently purchased a '62 Brown Princeton which has a noticeable speaker buzz. I determined the problem is probably a warped voice coil or something in the gap, because I can push in on the cone and hear a rubbing noise as the cone moves. The speaker is an Oxford, dated '62. Should I buy a replacement speaker, have the original reconed, or ?


David, congratulations on the purchase. Nice amp. The noise is definitely a rub, either from, as you suggested, a warped (from overheating) voice coil, or flakes of paper or other material stuck in the gap between the voice coil and pole or front plate hole. There is a way to correct that if it isn't too severe. I'll detail it here, then you can make the decision whether to try it or not. The result is that you correct the problem without reconing the speaker, thus preserving the value of the original speaker. First, since you will be performing this operation without demagnetizing the magnet, make sure your work area is very clean and you have plenty of light. Lay the speaker on its back with the cone facing up and with a scalpel, carefully cut out the dustcap, leaving about 1/16" of dustcap where it is glued to the cone. This is important because the voice coil wires pass through this point and you want to make sure you don't cut them. Next, use a vacuum cleaner or clean, dry pressurized air to suck or blow the dust and other debris out of the gap. If you hold the speaker upside down with the cone facing downward it will probably help getting the dust and debris out. Next, take a 3x5 index card and cut it into a strip that is the correct length so that you can form it into a circle and stick it down into the gap between the inside of the voice coil and the outside of the pole. This will help form the voice coil back into a circle. Next, lay the speaker back down on its back. Take a Q-tip or small paint brush and dip it into a bottle of acetone (finger nail polish remover). Spread a small amount of this acetone on a couple of the rings of the spider, which is the brownish/yellow corrugated disk attached to the backside of the cone at the base of the basket. Next, place a jar lid or other disk on the cone where the dustcap was and let the speaker set overnight. The lid or disk will prevent dust from getting into the gap overnight, and the acetone causes the spider to relax and reposition slightly, thus repositioning the voice coil. The next day, remove the lid and the index card strip and see if you still have a rub. If you do, try the acetone again, same procedure. If, after a couple of tries, it seems hopeless, then professional reconing is the only resolve. I think it's worth trying though, to preserve the value of the original speaker. If it works, contact me with the size of the dustcap and I'll send you one to replace the one you cut out and instructions on how to replace it. As far as using the speaker, if you plan to use it regularly, at high volumes, I would suggest packing the original away and install a replacement speaker. Many speakers would work well in that amp, such as a Mojo MP10R, a Naylor 10, a Kendrick 10, or a WeberVST P10Q. If you want some british tone, you might check out Celestion's new Silver series or WeberVST's Blue Pup and Silver Ten.


Footnote 02-17-97 David followed the procedure outlined above and corrected the rubbing problem, thus preserving the value of his vintage speaker

 

 

Linkage (3rd article):

 

http://www.webervst.com/sptalk.html

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Originally posted by blackba



The cone is not even moving so its not going to rub the Voice coil till it shorts.


I am just not sure what to do with it once I get another one.

 

 

I'd imagine that you have a warped frame on that speaker.

 

You might be able to have the cone reset (at the surround/spider) but that's something I would call Ted Weber about. Might be worthwhile, might not, but it never hurts to find out, but only if the frame isn't warped a lot.

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Originally posted by kannibul



I'd imagine that you have a warped frame on that speaker.


You might be able to have the cone reset (at the surround/spider) but that's something I would call Ted Weber about. Might be worthwhile, might not, but it never hurts to find out, but only if the frame isn't warped a lot.

 

 

Yea, I will check it out again. Part of the problem is I don't really know if I like the speaker or not yet as I only have one working so I don't know how much time I want to put into it.

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