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How to attach Neutrik NP2C 1/4" plug?


El Glom-o

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How does one attach the Neutrik NP2C plug to the cable? I printed the .pdf of the assembly instructions, but all it shows is how to strip the end of the cable, and an exploded view of the connector pieces. There's nothing showing exactly how the cable is arranged inside the connector. It's pretty obvious that the center conductor gets soldered into the cup in the center of what the instructions call the "insert", but where does the shield pigtail go?

 

Thank you.

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How does one attach the Neutrik NP2C plug to the cable? I printed the .pdf of the assembly instructions, but all it shows is how to strip the end of the cable, and an exploded view of the connector pieces. There's nothing showing exactly how the cable is arranged inside the connector. It's pretty obvious that the center conductor gets soldered into the cup in the center of what the instructions call the "insert", but where does the shield pigtail go?


Thank you.

I don't have an NP2C in front of me, but all 1/4" TS connectors have the shield braid run to the sleeve of the connector and the center goes to the tip as you've said. Switchcraft's 1/4" connectors are a little easier to see: http://www.switchcraft.com/products/pdf_files/jack-131_schematic.pdf If you look at the #184 diagram, you can see both the sleeve and tip terminal. I'm sure there is a solder lug or crimp connection for the braid. It should be obvious if it's in front of you. Make sense?

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What's the difference between the NP2C and NP2X. I checked their website, don't really understand technical details when it comes to connectors. Can someone help me out?

They are both 1/4" TS plugs, so either will work for guitar, FX, etc. The "X" in NP2X stands for "Extra slim 1/4" plug for highest packing density." Neutrik makes really good stuff. I also like Switchcraft. Sometimes, instead of buying the connectors and wire, you can get away with a standard cable from CBI: http://www.cbicables.com/product.htm and cut it to meet your needs.

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I'm sure there is a solder lug or crimp connection for the braid. It should be obvious if it's in front of you.

 

 

 

What's obvious is that there is NOT a solder lug or crimp connection for the braid. It looks as though the braid pigtail is supposed to be laid alongside the flange at the rear of the insert, then caught between the flange and housing when cable and insert are positioned inside the housing, with no solder being used. Is that correct?

 

Although it looks as though such a compression contact would be adequate, I still have reservations about using a non-soldered connection.

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What's obvious is that there is NOT a solder lug or crimp connection for the braid. It looks as though the braid pigtail is supposed to be laid alongside the flange at the rear of the insert, then caught between the flange and housing when cable and insert are positioned inside the housing, with no solder being used. Is that correct?


Although it looks as though such a compression contact would be adequate, I still have reservations about using a non-soldered connection.

Hmm... Well, if you have the NPC2 in front of you, then I'll take your word on the solderless connection. I also like to have a soldered connection, so I'd probably not choose that connector. However, Neutrik makes good stuff, so you'll probably be fine. It should be evident after assembling the cable and plug that it is mechanically rigid and makes a solid connection electrically.

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Hey man, you hear any tonal differences between NP2C and NP2X? What's your experience with Switchraft connectors? I mean, how does it compare with Neutrik and G&H?


I've checked through
www.lavacable.com
, sells pretty high end cable like Van Den Hul. Damn pricey though.

If you can hear the difference in a connector, you have some special ears. :) I like both Neutrik and Switchcraft, because they both make high-quality products. I've not used a G&H jack/plug before.

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