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Tube gurus! I beseech thee!

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  • #16
    Yes, I should have ended with "opinions", of course.

    Comment


    • #17
      10 years is a long time for new production (not US made tubes) so replacing them with the correct types may make a big difference. The power tubes wear out the fastest so installing new power tubes can help a lot.

      If the amp hasn't had a cap job done in the last 20 years or doesn't have the bias set correctly, doing these things can help a lot too.

      If everything is up to date, replacing V3 (for the normal channel) with a 5751, 12AT7 or 12AY7 will clean it up.

      I just had a cap job performed last week, but it still sounds too, I don't know, ragged. Waiting on the new tubes I ordered. The 6L6's are by Groove Tubes, installed by a tech in the late '90s who also biased the amp at the time of installation. This amp has been in mothballs since around 2002 (which is what I meant by limited duty on the power tubes) and I'm just now trying to restore some of its glory.
      <div class="signaturecontainer"><a href="http://codpiece.bandcamp.com" target="_blank">My rock band</a></div>

      Comment


      • #18
        10 years is a long time for new production (not US made tubes) so replacing them with the correct types may make a big difference. The power tubes wear out the fastest so installing new power tubes can help a lot.

        If the amp hasn't had a cap job done in the last 20 years or doesn't have the bias set correctly, doing these things can help a lot too.

        If everything is up to date, replacing V3 (for the normal channel) with a 5751, 12AT7 or 12AY7 will clean it up.



        listen to this man - he knows very much what he's talking about (and is a GREAT source for NOS tubes and info).


        Good power tubes can really help as well, but they are spendy and require biasing. Try the preamps first. For me, my '67 bassman head had a little "early hair" on it as well and a JAN 5751 in V3 (for normal channel) did the trick perfectly for me. I also like 12AY7's for taming gain channels on my 2 channel amps like my Mesa Boogie .22+. I think those tubes are very musical. Conversely, 12AT7's in driver slots sound sterile to me, but, again, all of this is very subjective.
        <div class="signaturecontainer"><font size="1">Main Guitars: ES339, '73 Tele Deluxe, '73 Guild Bluesbird, '74 Guild S-100C, Heritage H140, G&amp;L ASAT, Rick 330-12, SG Classic, Martin D-1R, Carvin C980</font><br />
        <br />
        <font size="1">Amps: bassmen heads (BF'65 &amp; SF '67), '68 Champ, '69 VibroChamp, '72 SF NM Super Reverb, '73 Deluxe Reverb, '72 Bandmaster Reverb, Mesa Boogie Studio 22+, Winfield Cyclone head, Traynor YGM-3 &amp; YGM-4, misc. cabs</font><br />
        <br />
        <font size="1">FX: Fender Reverb Unit, Keeley BD-2, Fulltone Fulldrive 2, Dano Fish N' Chips EQ, SD-1, L.R. Baggs PADI</font></div>

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        • #19
          never used or even seen the stuff. WD40 has done the trick and its readily available. Its what they use at the guitar shop here in town too. How different are the ingredients to DeOxit? If you think using WD40 for this is bad have a talk with the idiots who spray their fishing lures with the stuff cus some moron way back in the 80s convinced people that it worked wonders... I'm pretty sure that myth is what the episode of King Of The Hill was based on where Hank used crack rock to catch bass. Just imagine what it could do if you melt it down and soak it into your speakers. AWESOME TONE I TELL YOU WHAT!


          Don't use WD40 on electrical connections. Just. Don't.

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          • #20
            Don't use WD40 on electrical connections. Just. Don't.


            any specific reason? I've never had it not help things and nothing bad has happened at the shop that gave me the idea to use it and they have been around for well over 20 years. I only use it on inputs and volume pots not the circuit. How easy is it to find the other stuff? I'm in Canada so theres no way for me to get chemicals across the boarder without a huge delay/hassle.

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            • #21
              Aargh. Got the new tubes, plugged 'em in and the amp doesn't really sound any different. I'm at a loss.

              Also, I've got the volume dimed and it does not sound loud enough to be a 50 watt amp.
              <div class="signaturecontainer"><a href="http://codpiece.bandcamp.com" target="_blank">My rock band</a></div>

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              • #22
                I would also suggest rebiasing the amp. If you are having nasty harmonics, you are getting crossover distortion.


                +1
                <div class="signaturecontainer"><a href="http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1935393" target="_blank">The box pattern and arpeggio diagrams I made. Use em for whatever.</a><br />
                <br />
                <b><a href="http://www.myspace.com/sworntothegrave" target="_blank">My death metal band.</a></b><br />
                <br />
                <b><a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sworn-to-the-Grave/448918590314" target="_blank">Band's facebook page</a></b></div>

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                • #23
                  any specific reason? I've never had it not help things and nothing bad has happened at the shop that gave me the idea to use it and they have been around for well over 20 years. I only use it on inputs and volume pots not the circuit. How easy is it to find the other stuff? I'm in Canada so theres no way for me to get chemicals across the boarder without a huge delay/hassle.


                  You should be able to get contact cleaner at an electronics or auto parts retailer. The advantage is that contact cleaner evaporates completely. Some of the ingredients in WD40, including mineral oil, do not. The residue will, over time, become a home for dust & debris. Not something you want on electronic contacts or resistive strips.

                  The only time I would consider using WD40 on electronics, is if:
                  1) An electronic gadget got wet (say, on a boat).
                  2) I was positive that I could wipe away 100% of the residue.

                  "Water displacement" is what WD40 does best.
                  <div class="signaturecontainer">_______________________ _____________________<br />
                  The Homebrews!<a href="http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-rupertamp" target="_blank">http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-rupertamp</a><br />
                  <br />
                  &quot;The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair.&quot; -Douglas Adams, Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy</div>

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                  • #24
                    I'm trying to at least marginally improve the headroom on my silverface Bassman. There are also some ugly microphonics I'd like to tame. Here are the tubes:
                    Preamp: 7025 (2)
                    Power: 6L6GC (2)
                    Phase inverter: 12AT7

                    Any recommended swaps? It also might be worth noting that these tubes are all pretty old with the exception of the 6L6's, which are maybe 10 years old and have seen fairly limited duty in that time.
                    I have the same head. I use Sovtek LPS 12AX7s, a NOS Philips 12AT7, and SED Winged C 6L6s.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      +1

                      I guess I'll take it to a new tech and have them do that, too. I'm feeling pretty burned by that last place.
                      <div class="signaturecontainer"><a href="http://codpiece.bandcamp.com" target="_blank">My rock band</a></div>

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