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Would this work for mounting lights to my tops?


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That's what I do on my Mackie SRM450 speakers. I just bought a couple bolts that were the right size. (I forget the size right now.) It works fine and it's simple. I mount 1 Chuavet SlimPar on each speaker.

 

Cheers,

Frank

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That's what I do on my Mackie SRM450 speakers. I just bought a couple bolts that were the right size. (I forget the size right now.) It works fine and it's simple. I mount 1 Chuavet SlimPar on each speaker.


Cheers,

Frank

 

 

I do this also with my Carvin Tops, one slim par on each top, one on the sides and it works well. The bolt size for mine were a M10x1.50 but not sure if this is universal across the board for fly points. I welded small flags to the heads of the bolts to turn them into a sort of thumb or wing bolt if you will to speed up mounting.

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Once you've determined the correct bolt, you can do what I've done in the past. Mount two O clamps to the rigging points, this will allow you to mount a pre-loaded 4' T bar to the top of your speaker. This allows you to employ more fixtures and is quick to set up.

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Called QSC...seems I'll need M8x25mm bolts. They aren't always readily available, although the Lowe's in town has some. I will get them after work. I was told the reason they are M8 and not standard mm or " is because M-bolts are designed specifically for mounting. Since I am not mounting the speaker, it is no big deal, but there isn't a readily made equivalent to M8 from what I've found.

 

To add to the confusion, most people treat M8 as being 8mm. That being said, 8mm was too small for the top mounts. FWIW, the side mounts for the K10 is the M5-20mm.

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Alright, QSC was wrong. I needed 3/8" bolts. I went with the 1" in length. I used the bolts, washers, and those little furniture stick-on pads. I lined the yoke of each light so I could rotate it without scratching the speakers. Two fit on each speaker with no problem. I can still use the speaker's handle and it is still very light. Sweet!

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Alright, QSC was wrong. I needed 3/8" bolts. I went with the 1" in length. I used the bolts, washers, and those little furniture stick-on pads. I lined the yoke of each light so I could rotate it without scratching the speakers. Two fit on each speaker with no problem. I can still use the speaker's handle and it is still very light. Sweet!

 

 

Can either of you provide pics?

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Here's an example of mounting a pair of O-clamps the rigging points on a JBL-PRX612m. The screw on the O-Clamp is the right one for the rigging nuts so all you have to do is remove the bolt that comes stock in the rigging points, and screw the O-Clamps in.

IMAG0045.jpg

 

Then you can just drop your cross bar in like so:

4-82A98B81-1846119-800.jpg

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  • 6 months later...
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Hey goose, you have that poll running to the other 612 then? This is probably what I'm going to do. Screw buying another whole set of stands when I'm only using a couple of lights per side.... :) I've got LS801s on the bottom so I should be good on weight if you're using the JBL subs under those.

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Does anyone know where we can buy the bars? All I can find is full stands for sale. I have one that I think was left over from a broken stand. I have some QSC 121 tops and the O-Clamps fit in the fly points perfectly. Put a couple of cans on it and they will cover one side of the stage perfectly! So I need to source another couple 4' bars and I am all set.

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You can buy 2" o.d. aluminum tubing (6061 or 6063 alloy) in .125" wall thickness from a metal supplier. It is pretty cheap that way. As a comparison, Global Truss uses .080" (2 mm) wall thickness in its truss units. It will be unfinished silver. If you want it black, you can spray paint (rattle can) it; you can have somebody powder coat it; or find a firm that will annodize it. If it is going to be set up the same way every time, black gaff tape looks ok from a distance.

 

Depending on your speakers, you could probably mount the tubing vertically if you want more elevation of your fixtures. (Think box booms in a theater.). YMMV. Mark C.

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