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Rat fur carpet removal


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water/heat gun/patience.

 

most important...what cabs are you un-furring?

 

do you have any idea how much work it will take to get these prepared for a coating such as duratex? a pro may be able to do it in an 8 hour day, an amateur should plan for a week of everyday labor AFTER you get the fur off.

 

do you have a good sander? filler? and possibly a router with a round over bit with bearing?

 

none of your corners will fit anymore, all new holes need drilled and the wood possibly reshaped to allow for the corners.

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It's not a fun job, but it can be done in a week of free time (or, 2 days if you feel like working on it all day.)

 

I would say for an amateur, it is a 2 person job.

 

Using Mineral spirits and a rag and a metal 4" paint/drywall blade . Scrape the glue off - working on smaller areas - lightly wet the glue (and do this OUTSIDE) and after the spirits sit a few minutes, use the scrape o scrape a little of the glue off. Make sure you don't gouge the wood - let the blade and the spirits do their job.

 

Once you get the glue off, then you'll need to sand the cabinets with a jitterbug/palm (vibrating) sander.

 

Get some Durham's Rock Hard Putty, and working with small amounts of it, patch any holes that need to be patched.

 

Then sand the cabinets again.

 

I would then coat the cabinets with Zinsser Oil-based primer.

 

Then lightly sand again.

I'd put two coats of it on.

Cut the primer 50/50 with mineral spirits to thin it down enough to work with. I would only do 1 side at a time.

 

If you try to put too much on at once, it will run, and take longer to dry, etc. and will be an all around pain to work with.

 

You are better off doing multiple coats that are thin, than attempting one heavy coat.

 

 

Then you should be ready to put your finish coating on.

 

(I made cabinets for years and was a painter - both residential and commercial/industrial, so I dealt with finishing/painting cabinets for a long time.

 

I'm getting ready to do a pair of boxes, so I'll probably take pictures and do a detailed report on it.

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I tried to de-fur a cabinet once and failed. I pulled off the fur, used some chemical remover, scraped, and sanded with an orbital sander. After painting it with an oil-based paint, it still looked bad. I ended up giving the empty cab away and selling the components.

 

If you're committed, a chemical remover will take off the goo, but you'll still have to put in tons of elbow grease to get the rest off.

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water/heat gun/patience.


most important...
what cabs are you un-furring?

 

 

Exactly. Are they worth it?

 

You're not going to improve your street cred by de-furring a pair of old mid-line Peavey's.

 

I've got three (odd number I know) Yorkville Unity U15's w/ rat fur. These are probably at the minimum level of what people over at the "other" forum would consider using.

 

But even the U15's aren't worth de-furring. And if anyone turned up their nose at them, I would just laugh - after all I got them for less than a third of what they go for new.

 

If you are a PA company trying to get on the festival/concert circuit, than yes, you can't show up with rat fur - but then again almost anything suitable for those gigs wouldn't even be available in rat fur.

 

I say wear your rat fur with pride, to heck with keeping up with the joneses:)

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Well it sounds like more work than I am willing to invest. By the way the cabs are EV T18 subs and I have 8 of them. Here is a website I found http://www.citrusdepot.net/products.html and here is what they company emailed back to me.

 

"Our product should work well removing the glue. The wood will absorb some of the liquid but in time it will evaporate out. Since you are not using it on a concrete or no-porous surface, go with our Multi Purpose Solvent. It is pure 100% ultra refined. Our regular Adhesive and Mastic Removers have a rinsing agent added which you do not need."

 

Is it safe to assume they are just trying to sell me their product?

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I have four Yorkville EM168 monitors (nice little 10", lightweight, passive monitors). They are the last of the rat-furred cabinets in the rig I normally use. I looked hard at stripping, prepping and putting bedliner/duratex on them about a year ago. After careful consideration, I determined rat fur is not so bad.:)

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Without knowing the adhesive used, I don't think anybody can say this will or will not work. I would suggest that you at least try it before assuming it will work. I still think you have a bigger project on tap than you realize.

 

 

 

No I realize the job and believe me I don't want nothing to do with a big job like that. I tried pulling the carpet off of a set of cerwin vega subs and that wore me out. I was hoping this citrus stuff which I just found out about will do the trick and make the job much easier. I still have those Vega subs with half the carpet still on one. I might order a pint of this and try it on that sub first. If it comes off much easier I will report here how it went. And in the end these don't have to look like they are going into a church. They will still be loaded up in the trailer. The fur on my Yorkville EX2000's was just hanging on by the corner caps. I just pulled it off and painted it with a roller with black acryllic latex paint and so far it is holding up nicely. I think I might put a coat of that Duratex on those too.

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Ha HA maybe so but the Yorkvilles look 10x better so I guess my subs would too. I am only using 4 of the 8 subs but if I ever needed to use one of the spares they wouldn't match. I have 4 blacks ones and 4 gray ones. so I was trying to make them all match. But you just gave me the nickname for my PA. THE GHETTO PA!!! I love it! LOL Good to know about the different adhesives though. I didn't knoe that. I will qualify my findings by the brand I try it on as well. One of my gray subs has a piece pulling away so it cant hurt to try a little spot there.

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