Members Dra Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 I have an OLD raw frame speaker (unloaded). It has the silver aluminum dust cover. Does anyone know what the Cont. power rating might be on this thing?My intention (because the cone has a couple of holes in it) is to put duct tape over the holes and fire it up, purely for power testing. I will put a filtered (33-100hz) music signal into it. I'll probably start at 150% cont power and then step up to a larger amp.It will start on a PLX3102 (600w) dialed back to limit output voltage. If it survives, let the amp go to full output. Then move to a PLX3602 (800w) , then to bridged if nessessary.I realize that without the speaker being loaded that the suspension may fail before the coil, but whatever.I would rather load it in a cab, but all my cabs are 12 or 18. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members soul-x Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Power rating: I think 200W. But definitely not in free air at 33hz I don't get it. Why are you killing this speaker again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members soul-x Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Wait -- square magnet? Are these stamped frame (CTS or Eminence) jobbies? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Dra Posted December 31, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 I was about to throw it away, but thought..."Why not "learn" something from it first." It has been in my way for over ten years and space is a premium. I think (75%) that it came out of an old 2x15 + horn Peavey bass rig. I offered it on Ebay a year or so back and no one was interested. Now it has a couple of small "oops" holes. It is not a cast frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members soul-x Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 I was about to throw it away, but thought..."Why not "learn" something from it first." It has been in my way for over ten years and space is a premium.I think (75%) that it came out of an old 2x15 + horn Peavey bass rig. I offered it on Ebay a year or so back and no one was interested. Now it has a couple of small "oops" holes. It is not a cast frame. Ok. Not a Black Widow. Maybe good for 100 watts. The lesson you may learn from attempting blow it up in the manner you just described will be the cost of repair for your power amps. How well do you think your bridged PLX would like seeing a dead-shorted voice coil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tlbonehead Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 I'm guessing CTS. 100 watts maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Dra Posted January 1, 2010 Author Members Share Posted January 1, 2010 It's a P15FABA8CX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted January 1, 2010 Members Share Posted January 1, 2010 Not a BW driver, just a run of the mill stock speaker. Maybe 100 watts RMS. Unloaded, it will probably fail mechanically around 100 watts. Hope you don't damage your amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Unalaska Posted January 2, 2010 Members Share Posted January 2, 2010 Use an amp you don't care about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dboomer Posted January 2, 2010 Members Share Posted January 2, 2010 It will start on a PLX3102 (600w) dialed back to limit output voltage. If it survives, let the amp go to full output. Then move to a PLX3602 (800w) , You can't just throw anything at it and expect it to mean you have power tested a speaker. Do you have the proper band limited test signal with a guaranteed crest factor? Do you have a power source powerful enough to power those amps to full continuous power? You CAN'T do it from a wall socket. You need in excess of 20A and you must insure that the voltage doesn't drop below 120V. It will likely sag 6-12 volts. In order for a speaker to meet it's published ratings you need an amp that can cleanly deliver 4x the power you are testing for. BTW ... those amps are EIA rated at the power you mention. You need full range power for a test. http://www.peavey.com/support/technotes/concepts/THE_LOUDSPEAKER_SPEC_SHEET_GAME_2005.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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