jacket wire stripper

[scarecrowbob]

What various tools do you guys use to strip the jacket of coax and multipair wires?

 

I've been using pocket knives and end nippers for years, but surely there is a better way.

[samkokajko]

When I worked for a company that made lots of BNC video cables we had a special hand tool that you would sinch down and it would cut off the jacket, the inner shield and the center core at the correct lengths so you could just crimp on the connector itself. Something like this.

http://www.tecnec.com/Product.asp?baseItem=XCL%2D3CSKWH&cat=TESTTOOLS&subcat=&prodClass=CABTOOLS&mfg=&search=0&off=

 

Don't think that's quite what you're looking for though. For other jackets I either use a knife or if I can I use a wire stripper on a very large guage setting to rip the jacket off.

[jasps]

 

What various tools do you guys use to strip the jacket of coax and multipair wires? I've been using pocket knives and end nippers for years, but surely there is a better way.

 

I'd like to know about cutting the outer jacket on large multipair wire as well. My own procedure is down below.

 

For the various RG-type Coax, I usually use a tool that strips the jacket, insulation, and shield at the same time.

 

For large snake multis, I use a sharp blade and make a small cut in the jacket. Then, I bend that cut and slowly cut down, making sure not to nick any pairs. After that small incision I will bend around my cut, following with my blade until I have the outer jacket completely cut. Ends up looking very nice.

[agedhorse]

 

I'd like to know about cutting the outer jacket on large multipair wire as well. My own procedure is down below. For large snake multis, I use a sharp blade and make a small cut in the jacket. Then, I bend that cut and slowly cut down, making sure not to nick any pairs. After that small incision I will bend around my cut, following with my blade until I have the outer jacket completely cut. Ends up looking very nice.

 

 

This is the same way I do it.

 

For stripping smaller shielded twisted pairs, I use an Ideal tool and lots of experience. Since the pairs are often slightly oval in shape, it takes finesse. For 8451, i use the Ideal tool and cut down but not all the way through the jacket, then a bend will pop the remaining flash and it comes off clean without any dmage. I do thousands of these a year.

[The Chinese]

+1 On The above...seem that this technique is somewhat universal, except I use a Razor blade. Just what I came up on i guess, and I have it down to a science. Just make sure it's very sharp.

 

T

[RoadRanger]

FWIW I'll use an old soldering tip to melt through the jacket. The melting point of the jacket is usually way below the melting point of the individual wire's insulation so this eliminates any chance of nicking the wires. I bend the cable and melt the outside of the bend until the jacket opens up from the stress, then roll it to present another part of the jacket to the outside of the bend. Obviously a slow procedure but if you have the time and not many to do...

[agedhorse]

 

FWIW I'll use an old soldering tip to melt through the jacket. The melting point of the jacket is usually way below the melting point of the individual wire's insulation so this eliminates any chance of nicking the wires. I bend the cable and melt the outside of the bend until the jacket opens up from the stress, then roll it to present another part of the jacket to the outside of the bend. Obviously a slow procedure but if you have the time and not many to do...

 

 

This is generally untrue. Maybe you have some wire that this is true for, but definately not in general.

[scarecrowbob]

Yah, the melting thing is a little impractical for me at least, and I run my iron really hot ~900F.

 

I am glad to hear that my technique (same as everyone elses') is pretty standard, as I've done a couple hundred XLR connections last year and I'd hate to think I was wasting much time.

 

Are there any tools that I am missing out on?

 

The best setup I have found is this: a 2x4 that I drilled holes in to hold the connectors, and I use a largish pair of pliers to loosely hold the cable. I drilled holes for 1/4" and XLR M and F parts-- very fast and a cheap tool to make.

[RoadRanger]

This is generally untrue. Maybe you have some wire that this is true for, but definately not in general.

Well, the jacket "pops" open if you have it bent so the soldering iron never touches the wires anyways - pretty much like how you cut into the jacket then bend it open? Hey, works for me - I really HATE nicking wires .

[Craig Vecchione]

Chainsaw and a blowtorch.

 

 

[RoadRanger]

Chainsaw and a blowtorch.

You win !

[The Chinese]

 

Yah, the melting thing is a little impractical for me at least, and I run my iron really hot ~900F. I am glad to hear that my technique (same as everyone elses') is pretty standard, as I've done a couple hundred XLR connections last year and I'd hate to think I was wasting much time. Are there any tools that I am missing out on? The best setup I have found is this: a 2x4 that I drilled holes in to hold the connectors, and I use a largish pair of pliers to loosely hold the cable. I drilled holes for 1/4" and XLR M and F parts-- very fast and a cheap tool to make.

 

 

 

I use a Panavise - Check em out if you haven't already. Although that technique you developed is kinda ingenious, if I must say so... you can do a whole snake at one time, no?

 

T

[Dogoth]

Chainsaw and a blowtorch.

 

I have done that as well. It was amazing how the guy atoned for his sins (Opps! were talking about wire here)

 

For coax, larger diameter rubber jacket & Multi pair, I use a razor blade as well (with the skill of a surgeon I might add). For the individual conductors, I use small dykes (they work cheap & are fun to watch (OMG the PC police are going to get me for that one)). Once again carefuly. Occasionaly I'll loose a strand or nick a wire (it's about the type of insulation (the thermoplastic is the hardest to get just right) and knowing how sharp your dykes are (give them a math test first). If I loose less than 1 out of 10 strands, I figure by the time I "tin" it for soldering, it won't matter (I try not to loose any). If a lead is long enough (like for spade lugs on a backboard) I use a ratchet-like tool that Grips the insulation and strips the end in one squeeze (very fast & acurate), but the chance to use it is rare. For thick teflon plenum cable, I use a lot of explatives and a razor blade. I used to have a tool that would spin around the cable & then the exacto like blade would pivote 90 degrees as you pull it down the length of the cable splitting it open like a banana. When the diameter was adjusted right, it worked well. I try to do as little plenum cable as possible.

[sailorman]

our keyboard player IS a surgeon. But he sucks at stripping coax

 

I use a wire stripper, trying to put the coax through a hole that will just nick the outer jacket, but not the shield. Then do the bend/sharp knife trick. A bit of trial and error, but if I'm making up several cables with the same wire, the approach works pretty good once I find the right size.

 

I am really pleased to find out that I've been struggling with the same problem as all of you pros and that there's not a whole lot better method than my amateurish solution.

[Dogoth]

I've found that (as a rule of thumb), the better the quality of cable, the harder it is to strip and work with. Better cable has more fiber strain relief inside, uses a denser more highly woven shield, uses more but finer strands (more easily nicked). FWIW I usualy take a jewelers screwdriver and unweave the shield, sometimes trim about half of it off at the outer jacket cut point and twist & tin the rest (I'm talking twisted pair shield type for XLR or TRS).

[6Imzadi]

I like the ideal strippers in this site page. These are by far my choice for stripping cables of various sizes. Set the blade correctly and it produces a beautiful edge on the outerjacket.

 

I use them thousands of times per job. Never nicks a conductor. Now, if I could just get everyone in my shop to use them.

 

What I can't stand is someone using their dykes to strip the outer jacket or conductors. Especially on solid conductors. It produces a small imperceptable nick on the conductor that will, over time, lead to the conductor breaking at the strip point.

[W. M. Hellinger]

To stip the jacket off of larger cables (snake cables and larger power cables) I use Paladin Tools EZI-GRIP slitter shown here;

 

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=8891822

 

For really tough cable jackets (like on direct burial power cable) I use a small tubing cutter like this:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/new-ridgid-Tubing-Conduit-Cutters-32920-model-15_W0QQitemZ170426828737

[RoadRanger]

Occasionaly I'll loose a strand or nick a wire (it's about the type of insulation (the thermoplastic is the hardest to get just right)

Often that kind can be tinned without striping it at all - just put a small blob of solder on the iron and touch the flush cut end of the wire to the blob and the insulation shrivels up enough to give you enough to tin and solder into a connector .