Members Just Mike Posted May 3, 2012 Members Share Posted May 3, 2012 If I don't have room to set them up side by side I'm left with this. my problem is how to "clamp" the fronts of the cabinets together. I've thought about; 1. Some sort of low profile clamps. There's a 1" lip on the cabs. 2. Drilling the front lips and putting in 1/4" T-nuts and use wing nut type bolts. 3. A plate on top of the cabs with wing nut type bolts into t-nuts in the tops of the cabs. What do you think? The top cabs weigh 60 lbs each but when they're strapped together they're pretty darned stable on top of the subs like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Miko Man Posted May 3, 2012 Members Share Posted May 3, 2012 A couple of thoughts: 1. If you are willing to install tee nuts, I think a top plate (maybe a simple mending strap) is enough to keep the tops from walking apart. I would install tee nuts on the right and left of each top so that it doesn't matter which top gets put where. 2. If you prefer not to add holes to your cabs, a plywood plate, with quarter-round moulding to frame in the base of the tops (and the top of the sub, too, perhaps) would serve the purpose of keeping the tops from walking apart or off the sub. Low tech, but only minor carpentry skills required. Mark C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted May 3, 2012 Members Share Posted May 3, 2012 subs side by side, riser poles to the tops. You can make a tight pack riser pole set-up with just a little work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members scarecrowbob Posted May 3, 2012 Members Share Posted May 3, 2012 I dunno about that setup (doesn't appear stable, but then I'm not there...), but why not just put a longer black ratchet strap around the whole assembly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Just Mike Posted May 3, 2012 Author Members Share Posted May 3, 2012 subs side by side, riser poles to the tops. You can make a tight pack riser pole set-up with just a little work. I just can't envision this. Care to elaborate? I understand what you're saying, but one pole that fits in the sub cup can't hold 120 lbs. and it would have to be a pretty big plate with bracing to hold both hi paks in that configuration, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Just Mike Posted May 3, 2012 Author Members Share Posted May 3, 2012 I dunno about that setup (doesn't appear stable, but then I'm not there...), but why not just put a longer black ratchet strap around the whole assembly? There's always that, but it's not very clever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Special J Posted May 3, 2012 Members Share Posted May 3, 2012 I agree with scarecrow, throw a ratchet strap around the whole thing to make it stable. Agedhorse's suggestion is good also, but will take more work. Or just put them on stands and snug the subs in there. Or stack the whole thing vertically. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members oldschooler Posted May 3, 2012 Members Share Posted May 3, 2012 How about a simple piece of ply for the tops to sit on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted May 3, 2012 Members Share Posted May 3, 2012 2 poles in 2 holes. To change the spacing of the poles on the sub, you will need to build a plate with threaded inserts. Could be out of 1-1/8" plywood and recessed (counterbored) threaded inserts from the back. Inserts will need to match pole threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Just Mike Posted May 3, 2012 Author Members Share Posted May 3, 2012 2 poles in 2 holes. To change the spacing of the poles on the sub, you will need to build a plate with threaded inserts. Could be out of 1-1/8" plywood and recessed (counterbored) threaded inserts from the back. Inserts will need to match pole threads. DOH! I didn't think about moving the pole sockets on the subs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Shovelhead Posted May 3, 2012 Members Share Posted May 3, 2012 I posted this in another thread, but here's what we did: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Just Mike Posted May 4, 2012 Author Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 I posted this in another thread, but here's what we did: I saw that when yo posted it. Unfortunately, my cabs are old skool and they weigh 60 lbs each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Pro Sound Guy Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 If I don't have room to set them up side by side I'm left with this. my problem is how to "clamp" the fronts of the cabinets together. I've thought about; 1. Some sort of low profile clamps. There's a 1" lip on the cabs. 2. Drilling the front lips and putting in 1/4" T-nuts and use wing nut type bolts. 3. A plate on top of the cabs with wing nut type bolts into t-nuts in the tops of the cabs. What do you think? The top cabs weigh 60 lbs each but when they're strapped together they're pretty darned stable on top of the subs like this. Safety is always #1. This setup you have is NOT safe in anyway. Do not butcher the sub cabs by moving the pole sockets. Make something so you can use the same pole sockets and mount your loudspeakers up on a plate closer together. Just one of those cabs falling or both onto someones foot will break their foot. At that point you become liable. Keep in mind that two loudspeakers in ONE socket can be unstable because of the weight. A lot of top hats are cheap plastic and not meant to hold more then one loudspeaker. Whatever you choose to do keep safety in mind! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Audiopyle Sound Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 Those cabinets probably will comb filter badly if they are tight packed like that. If I needed wider coverage I would put one cabinet on a stand next to or behind the subs and aim it where it's needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jwlussow Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 Those cabinets probably will comb filter badly if they are tight packed like that. If I needed wider coverage I would put one cabinet on a stand next to or behind the subs and aim it where it's needed. I was thinking the same thing. The comb filtering would kill the sound FOH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 Those cabinets probably will comb filter badly if they are tight packed like that. If I needed wider coverage I would put one cabinet on a stand next to or behind the subs and aim it where it's needed. No, they do not. I have tested and the comb filtering is totally acceptable in almost all applications that I can think of (that this kind of rig would be used). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 I was thinking the same thing. The comb filtering would kill the sound FOH. Nope, testing verifies that this line of thinking, while "theoretically correct" does not translate into the real world. Much like many of BFM's theoretical diatribes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Unalaska Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 Generally people use to MI grade speakers will throw out the term comb filtering more that it actually is a real world effect. What gets me is I don't want people's eyes to notice anything unusual about the speakers, infact if they didn't see them at all I'd be fine with it. The trussing is very cool but I'd be more inclined to stack horizontal, and poles are smaller/lighter than trussing. Save the trussing for lights too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrcpro Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 I was thinking the same thing. The comb filtering would kill the sound FOH. Since you've got them all set up, fire 'em up, move around the front of the stack, and see how it sounds. Still no matter what I wouldn't set up like this. Two 4718s stacked is just four feet tall. The 4722s aren't high enough. Those horns have got to be right at ear level. Personally I'd either set them up as JBL intended (two subs plus tops on poles on either side of the stage) or the other common alternative (all four subs lined across the front of the stage with two tops per side on stands). ... and if the room isn't big enough to set up like that, you've probably got too much for the room Just use 1/2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 Those horns have got to be right at ear level.Only if you intend on killing folk's hearing . The horns should be at least over their heads and I personally like to have the entire top cab at least 6 feet up so the audience doesn't block any of it's output. All boom and sizzle at the back sounds like arse to me . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrcpro Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 What I was saying is don't set up like this because the horns are going to be at ear level. Sorry if I wasn't clear... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Tomm Williams Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 My first thought is tri-pod the mains and center cluster the subs. Much safer and you're not attempting to modify or build anything. Stacking has it's place but if the needed dimensions don't exist................................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 What I was saying is don't set up like this because the horns are going to be at ear level. Sorry if I wasn't clear...I gotcha now - the English language can be confustercating, especially the regional variants . Mains too low is a pet peeve of mine . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members twostone Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 What about heavy duty crank stands with dual pole cross bar section? they'll even custom build if you got the cash. I don't see why you just don't use 1 speaker pole per sub? That's what I would do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted May 4, 2012 Members Share Posted May 4, 2012 I don't see why you just don't use 1 speaker pole per sub? That's what I would doBut they only go to 11 when stacked - poles reduce the output to 7.5 at best . Seriously the marketability of a SOS rig 'round these parts for R&R is quite low so I understand the OP's dilemma. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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