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Best style sub for low end punch, front loaded vs folded vs....

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  • Best style sub for low end punch, front loaded vs folded vs....

    Was just wondering on opinions on what style/type of sub do you think gives the best punch, front loaded vs folded horn, vs manifold or......... Play mostly medium sized venues, the subs that I have now are are falling short of what I'd like to have.

  • #2

    There are tradeoffs with all designs - what do you have now and what style of music do you pump through them? How mush do you have to spend? Size and weight limits?


    "We Have Met the Enemy and He is Us" - Walt Kelly​

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    • #3

      What roadranger said.

      The wheel is an extension of the foot

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      • agedhorse
        agedhorse commented
        Editing a comment

        Enough of any sub to do the job appropriately.


    • #4
      Have a pair of Yamaha Sw118's, play in a rock band use an Audix D6 kick drum mic, running just the frequency range of 40hz to 100hz, with only the kick and my bass going through them, pushing around 1,200 watts into them, (pv 2000 bridged but only turned up 60% of the way. No size or weight limits, have a budget of around $2,000 for upgrades. Was debating loading them with omega pro's, but I also gave a friend selling a pair of EV T18's loaded with omega pro's, was wondering if that was a better direction to go in.

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      • RoadRanger
        RoadRanger commented
        Editing a comment


      • Bobby1Note
        Bobby1Note commented
        Editing a comment

        Get yourself one of these, and you'll never have to ask this question again;

        http://www.yorkville.com/products.asp?type=29&cat=2&id=382

        http://www.yorkville.com/products_photos.asp?id=382

         

         


      • RoadRanger
        RoadRanger commented
        Editing a comment

        Alien Radio wrote:
        Have a pair of Yamaha Sw118's, play in a rock band use an Audix D6 kick drum mic, running just the frequency range of 40hz to 100hz, with only the kick and my bass going through them, pushing around 1,200 watts into them, (pv 2000 bridged but only turned up 60% of the way.

        Them knobs only control sensitivity, not power - you're still putting up to 1000w into each of them poor little 300w subs. Unbridge the amp, put one on each side, turn them knobs all the way up, and turn the system up until the DDT lights start flashing, then 6db past that. If it's not loud enough now you need more subs, maybe another pair of the SW118's used if you can get them cheap.


    • #5
      But mostly looking for any suggestions, but am curious would I benifit getting away from front loaded and getting into a different design.

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      • dboomer
        dboomer commented
        Editing a comment
        The design style is probably less important than the execution. You've got cheap subs and are pushing them too hard. I would avoid boxes that have been reloaded with alternate woofers. Unless the box has been correctly retuned you might be going backwards.

        What high pass filter are you using with your current setup? You can probably help clean them up by raising it a bit. You don't need 40 Hz for a kick drum. Most of the punch will be at 70 Hz.

      • Mogwix
        Mogwix commented
        Editing a comment

        Alien Radio wrote:
        But mostly looking for any suggestions, but am curious would I benifit getting away from front loaded and getting into a different design.

        The type of design isn't as important as it's quality. It's silly to generalize front-loaded subwoofers based on your experience with the entry-level SW118.


    • #6

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      • #7
        Thank Bobby1note, I will def check into that!

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        • #8
          The amp is set to cut under 40hz, plus I gave an eq on the kick insert and I have it pulled down totally down for 40 and under . I will def try what you mentioned. If I were to invest in higher wattage subs, Bobby noted the Yorkvilles, any other suggestion for subs? Or maybe thoughts on if I got a qsc gx7 which seems like a good match for the yamaha subs.

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          • agedhorse
            agedhorse commented
            Editing a comment

            Alien Radio wrote:
            The amp is set to cut under 40hz, plus I gave an eq on the kick insert and I have it pulled down totally down for 40 and under . I will def try what you mentioned. If I were to invest in higher wattage subs, Bobby noted the Yorkvilles, any other suggestion for subs? Or maybe thoughts on if I got a qsc gx7 which seems like a good match for the yamaha subs.

            Don't use 2 filters, the eq filters are very shallow by comparison so do not use the eq to cut 40Hz.

            Your subs can not safely handle any more power than your amp can deliver in stereo mode. You are lucky your subs still work, though I would suspect that the drivers may be damaged already. I see plenty of these come through the shop for reconing.


        • #9
          Gotcha, I did the eq mostly so I could try to adjust different frequencies to try to see if I could dial in the kick at all, it seemed to have help. You may be right on having some damage, hope not. So I will try all suggestions, but with theses being "entry level" I am wondering if I should just get something better, taking all suggestions on different subs.

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          • RoadRanger
            RoadRanger commented
            Editing a comment

            The LS801P mentioned is great if you don't mind the weight . The PRX618S-XLF is lighter, goes lower and probably has better "client appeal" and resale value. The LS801P may have a bit more absolute output.


        • #10
          But now I am curious, I know I'm from the train of thought of running what speakers are rated at for program. So what is a good ratio?

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          • dboomer
            dboomer commented
            Editing a comment
            "Running what speakers are rated at program for" is too much power. Using an amp that is rated to deliver the program rated power is something different. Rated and delivered are two different things. The reason manufacturers recommend using program rated amplifiers is that with music as the source that amplifier will never deliver even the continuous power rating of the speaker. Even heavy, compressed sub material is likely to deliver about one third of that amp's power. The bigger risk of damage to subs is delivering frequencies below the -3dB cutoff of the box. The power handling capacity falls off VERY quickly below that point.

        • #11
          Sorry Abzurd asked the last question before I saw your post.

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          • #12
            Just finished reading your post thanks!

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            • #13
              I am using a comp/limiter on the kick. For tops I have Harbinger Hx152's. Not the greatest thing but get the job done, use two but own four. I am going to try everything suggested and I have started looking at some of the subs suggested. I have glanced at the jbl's before and I am hoping to find a somewhere I can check out the Yorkvilles. Jbl also has a passiveprx series now, has anyone had any experience with those, 418 models I believe.

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              • #14
                Oh I can relate to the heavy bass cab's, my Eden is the heaviest cab that my band has to load in and out.

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                • RoadRanger
                  RoadRanger commented
                  Editing a comment

                  The pair of 212MBE's I have are 34 lbs each  . Two 12" 300wrms neo drivers in each. I want to use them as subs at the next smallish sound gig I have  .


              • #15
                Mine are a little older and I could swear that on the back of the cabinet it says 8ohms but I will double check it as soon as I can.

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                • abzurd
                  abzurd commented
                  Editing a comment

                  I'm almost certain they are 8 ohm cabs. Wynn must be thinking of the double 18's, but Yamaha IV and V version 118 cabs are all 8 ohms as far as I know.



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