Members Mogwix Posted July 10, 2013 Members Share Posted July 10, 2013 My dad's mower hasn't been working correctly, so I decided to check it out. It's old and somehow the wiring is trashed but everything else is fine. I took it upon myself to tear apart all the wiring, trying my best to sort through all the safety garbage and find out where I need voltage to get the engine running and to control the PTO. The engine is a briggs and stratton "407777-0128-E1". There's a red lead coming from the engine which was connected to +12V of the ignition. There's a connector with white and black leads that connected to the display, and another black lead coming from the bottom that connected to the display. I've got the starter and the PTO figured out but I don't know what the other leads are for. I can't find any literature that says what they are. anybody have any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Axisplayer Posted July 10, 2013 Members Share Posted July 10, 2013 In my best Sgt Schultz voice " I know nothing...nothing!!!" Except this might be of some help...found a number of threads from a search by model number.http://en.allexperts.com/q/Small-Engines-Lawn-1746/2009/4/Briggs-Motor-Swap-1.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mogwix Posted July 10, 2013 Author Members Share Posted July 10, 2013 so far I think the red lead is the alternator output for charging the battery. still trying to figure out the rest. edit: looks like I was off again. reading your link, axis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Audiopile Posted July 10, 2013 Members Share Posted July 10, 2013 Post a picture of the machine and a picture or two of the engine, ok?I suspect I likely have something similar around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Audiopile Posted July 10, 2013 Members Share Posted July 10, 2013 Mogwix wrote: There's a red lead coming from the engine which was connected to +12V of the ignition. I suspect that red lead is for the fuel shut-off selinoid on the carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mogwix Posted July 10, 2013 Author Members Share Posted July 10, 2013 Audiopile wrote: I suspect that red lead is for the fuel shut-off selinoid on the carb. literature seems to state that the red lead is output from alternator, there was a fairly large connector on it which seems to be a diode. the black and white leads were connected to a control relay with all of the safety shut-offs... I'm assuming that's the shut-off. I've read others that agree with you, though. I'll post some pics tomorrow. I need to get some clip ends. Oh, and something else. I'm trying to use those crimping connectors but I can never get them to crimp very securely. What's the best way to crimp them? edit: I was watching some youtube videos and looks like I just need a better crimping tool. mine is a cheap piece of crap I bought for one lab in college :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Pro Sound Guy Posted July 10, 2013 Members Share Posted July 10, 2013 You mentioned Power Take Off?That would indicate it being a lawn tractor?What is the brand/model of the lawn tractor?My buddy had a Simplicity lawn tractor issue, and I found him a service manual online, and ithad all the wiring diagrams, and parts, and exploded views.Just sayin................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members wesg Posted July 10, 2013 Members Share Posted July 10, 2013 What is the make and model of the tractor? Does this help? Look at page 252 http://www.scribd.com/doc/58597495/Lawn-Tractors-L100-L110-L120-L130-Technical-Manual Wes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mogwix Posted July 10, 2013 Author Members Share Posted July 10, 2013 I had typed out a long detailed post, but when I attempted to post it "authentication failed" and it didn't post. So I guess I summarize. 1. bought a new crimp tool. works good. 2. took apart the engine. black lead is magneto ground, to kill the spark and stop engine. white lead opens the carb with an audible "clank" when 12V is applied. red lead appears to be connected to a small metal box, which in turn appears to be connected to the alternator coil. I assume it's a rectifier. 3. I had previously tested the ignition switch and it worked as expected, although when I attempted to start the engine the 12V start line (which activates the starter relay) somehow got shorted to the magneto ground line... and cause a splice inside the engine to melt. pulled that line out and replaced it with a new one. I have a new ignition switch but it's stupid, it doesn't have a "start" position. guess I also need to wire up a push button for the starter. 4. I removed the PTO clutch and set up a test circuit, but I could not get it to engage. Appears to be busted. I'll take it to my friends at their shop and see what they say, maybe order a new one. Internet tells me they cost about $250. my air compressor isn't working. cylinder in my floor jack won't pressure up. it's too damn hot in my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mogwix Posted July 11, 2013 Author Members Share Posted July 11, 2013 Mogwix wrote: 4. I removed the PTO clutch and set up a test circuit, but I could not get it to engage. Appears to be busted. I'll take it to my friends at their shop and see what they say, maybe order a new one. Internet tells me they cost about $250. After some thought and an immense onset of boredom, I returned to the garage and decided to disassemble the PTO clutch and see what's up. I got out my DMM and read 3.5 ohms across the leads... so the coil must be good. I cleaned off all the crap and checked it out. The friction plate looks fine. The clutch plate looks fine. Nothing's loose... so I put it back together and adjusted the top plate to leave some slack. I set up my test circuit and CLANK CLANK. PTO clutch works! I installed it back onto the mower and applied power. With a clank it happily engaged and grabbed onto the driveshaft. That saves me $250 and some time. Tomorrow I go shopping for a new ignition switch and clean up my wiring with some flexible conduit and zip ties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted July 11, 2013 Members Share Posted July 11, 2013 I have an L120 myself, the ignition switch is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Audiopile Posted July 11, 2013 Members Share Posted July 11, 2013 Wiring diagram for L120:http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/motoforge/2011-05-25_143433_112_electric_lift.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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