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Phantom power with hard wire split


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Coaster wrote:

 

 

drop pin one (which isnt 100% preventive but usually is good enough) or use transormer splits

 

Agreed. Some hard wired splits have a ground lift switch next to each channel (not sure if this is for the source device or just the split side though). I'm suprised an AH GL series had an issue with it though. Most high end gear doesn't (although if you don't know for sure, It's NOT RECOMMENDED to run phantom to an input because a poorly designed board can release puffs of magic smoke this way).

If it's a problem, open the snake head and lift pin 1 on each channel (as coaster suggested). Do it at the snake head to the split (monitor) side as this will keep the integrity of a grounded shield for that short run to your monitor console. WARNING - In doing this you will no longer be able to provide phantom power from your monitor console. The logic being that usualy all channels go to FOH and sometimes monitors don't need everything (there are exceptions like click trax & audience mics for IEM's - you make the choice).

Transformers are the best way to go BUT decent ones (cheap ones will suck) are D***ed expensive.

hope this helps

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Yup, I thought the AH board would take it to.  When I powered up and checked mic I got a few warning pops and crackels.  Powered down ASAP and put back dynamic mic.  Ran rest of night w/o problem so - looks like no magic smoke was released.  Yeah!

Until I gain more confidence/understanding of pin 1 drop, I'm shopping for a transformer splitter.

Thanks all for info.

 

 

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There will be NO problems with a hrad wire passive splitter and phantom power with any reasonably well designed mixer. Pops and crackles are the result of a bad connaction or cable rather than the split.

That said, there can be small hums and buzzes depending on grounding schemes, that can be made worse with phantom power.

When in doubt, a transformer isolated split is the best for isolation of these problems.

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