Van Interiors, gear packing, etc.

[wesg]

Hey, all!

 

I recently bought a used Chevy Express 2500 cargo van for use with my music equipment. Does anybody have any awesome tips or tricks to share when outfitting and packing this type of vehicle?

 

The van holds everything it needs to -- barely -- with no cargo management other than a rubber floor. But throwing everything on the floor is a total disaster, and I need to do better. My typical load is

 

- 6 Yorkville NX55Ps (12" powered speaker)

- Sometimes rental subs (PRX 618S)

- Mackie Onyx 244 in Road Ready Case

- 6U shock mounted flight case

- 6U SKB Case

- 4U Levy nylon bag

- Small suitcase full of microphones

- Gator 4-mic bag

- Couple of blow-molded ABS pistol cases with SM57s etc

- Large Gator gym bag (1.5 times size of milk crate) full of cables

- Whole bunch of loose microphone stands, mostly on round bases

- Cheap lights mounted on Yorkville lighting Ts -- loose

- One large (100") Yorkville speaker/lighting stand -- loose (very light!)

- Two Yorkville speaker stands, normal size, heavy, in a bag

- A large Rubbermaid bin holding my lighting controller, ADJ Revo Burst, DMX cables, etc

- Hammond Organ (split spinet now, changing to console organ on ROKs this summer. Might change to spinet on ROKs sooner if it loads better)

- Leslie 147 (actually want to carry two 145s) with a mover's blanket on it

- Yamaha CP4 in Gator GK-88-SLIM (rigid case with wheels)

- Roland VR09 in Gator GK-61 bag (with original packaging poly foam)

- Briefcase-like suitcase holding keyboard rig cables, pedals, etc.

- VERY VERY heavy folding 8' x 28" ramp

- Convertible Hand Cart

- Old-school suitcase (oversized briefcase) with stage clothes

- 1990s Targus Laptop bag full of sheet music

- 24" Stool (thinking about a drum throne)

- Spinet Organ bench (used to hold one rack and mixer)

- Couple of loose keyboard stands

 

Any clever suggestions for changes to my load, or how to manage it better? The biggest problem is that everything is on the floor, with the delicate stuff (keyboards) thrown on top of less-delicate stuff. This is really no good, and I need to spend (hopefully not too much) money to keep my investments safe.

 

The van has plywood and insulation on the interior already; bolted to the ribs. I got some E-track from a friend the other day and am planning to buy some more. Was thinking that maybe I could stack speakers two high, lashing each to the wall with 2" cam buckle straps. Anybody have any experience mounting E-track in a van like this? Was planning to bolt the E-track through the existing thin wood panels, right to the van's ribs, with #12 self-tappers. Thinking about mounting 1x4 SPF lumber above and below the E-track, also screwed to the van's ribs, so that the equipment rubs on softwood instead of metal when it is strapped down.

 

Not sure what to do about wheel wells. Make them big and flat so I can sit stuff on them? The wall curve adds complexity here also.

 

Have been thinking about building a "receiver" for my stage piano bag, kind of like the receiver for a box truck's ramp, only inside the van. This way, I could stack stuff safely on top of the piano, but pull the piano out first. I often need only the piano and a speaker. And stands and a mic. You get the drift.

 

Is there a good way to pack loose lightining Ts, or should I be taking them apart every show? (time consuming). Maybe strap them to the ceiling somehow?

 

Is there a good way to manage mic stands that doesn't involve taking them apart?

 

I don't currently have a divider between the cab and rear, but I am planning to buy one. I don't want a mic stand knocking me out as I hit the brakes to avoid a deer... Other work on the van, I've already bought OEM mirrors for the newer vans, the two-piece kind; they work better. Have ordered a third-brake-light camera but it hasn't come in yet. Parking a windowless vehicle has its challenges.

 

Thanks,

Wes

[RoadRanger]

The only problem I see is that you don't have covers for your speakers so they look pretty banged up . Covers and bags for everything works for me. I'd think that strapping everything down would take time and not be of much value if it's packed tight anyways?

[wesg]

I've made a few more short trips since this post. I definitely need to do something about the organ and Leslie. They shift under braking and are putting excess pressure on the driver's seat. A lot of the other stuff is staying put okay -- you may be right about the limited value of strapping this stuff down. I'll prioritize getting E-track and lumber where I think I want the organ equipment to live.

 

I've been meaning to invest in covers for those speakers, but they were already banged up when I got them. They were rental stock. I'm curious why it's the top of the speaker that seems to get banged up the most. At least you can't really tell when they're in use.

 

Wes

[Craig Vecchione]

I see a huge problem. I know you mentioned it, but you really need to protect yourself first, and get a partition. I don't know if you've ever seen the results of even a minor accident in a van with boxes in the back, but it isn't pretty. Your seat will NOT protect you at all.

 

https://www.inlad.com/gm-full-size-v...sv?page_id=847

 

Next, #12 self-tappers might work to install E-track, but they don't handle much of a load and can tear out. With the plywood already in place, there's also the issue of how you'll locate the steel ribs accurately, and how you'll determine the clearance between a rib and the exterior sheet metal. You really don't want to dent or worse, drill through the exterior!

 

All things considered, you might be better off installing E-track in the floor and then installing plywood between the tracks. You can then drill through the floor and use stainless bolts and washers from underneath...this is a lot easier than it sounds, as there's a lot of exposed and easily accessible floor area. The fuel tank area is an exception, but look underneath and you'll see that there are ways to get around this too. If you're really determined, you can lower the tank temporarily for access, and the tank does not actually touch the floor...there's usually about 2" clearance....plenty for a bolt and nut.

 

I've been upfitting my work van, a 2014 E 250, and have done a lot of research with this, and comparisons with a friend's 2500 van. All of these "older" vans are tougher to work with than the newer style like the Sprinter, Promaster, and Transit vans with tall straight sides.

 

The wheel wells are a challenge. Boxing them in seems to be a good solution, and if you do this, you can spray foam the tops of the wells, including the area outside the interior panel, to greatly reduce road noise...no doubt you know how loud these vans can be. Don't be afraid to use bolts into the wheel well, just cover the exposed with undercoating...I use black roofing repair sealant in a caulk gun. It's exactly like undercoat, and really protects the hole and bolt from water. If you work carefully, it's possible to use t-nuts on the interior so the fastener is completely flush inside.

[Craig Vecchione]

I forgot to mention that a good resource for this project is freight expediters....the folks who transport small but time-sensitive loads in vans. A Google search will reveal forums that have threads about exactly what we're discussing.

 

Here's a link to a company that does modifications for expediter vans. Check out the E-track mounting on the walls. I actually removed similar framing that supported 1x4 runners...my van was a U-Haul rental (they sell their vans after only one year...I got a fantastic deal on mine, only 14K miles).

http://www.midwayspecialtyvehicles.c...gsolutions.htm

[JIM683]

I have a Ford Cargo van E150. I used E-track on both sides, but was careful to not put holes in the sides. A partition is really needed and allows for a place to tie the load against. I love mine. The only thing I would add is I bought a folding aluminum wheelchair ramp to load and unload gear. I have wheels on most of the gear and this really helps when loading and unloading by myself.

[Craig Vecchione]

I have a Ford Cargo van E150. I used E-track on both sides' date=' but was careful to not put holes in the sides. A partition is really needed and allows for a place to tie the load against. I love mine. The only thing I would add is I bought a folding aluminum wheelchair ramp to load and unload gear. I have wheels on most of the gear and this really helps when loading and unloading by myself.[/quote']

 

Jim, got a link to that wheelchair ramp? I'm interested to see it.

[Audiopile]

Something I've done to the vans I've had and have that seems worth the effort: I install disconnect switches in the vicinity of the cargo doors to over-ride the door actuated interior light switches... so if the doors are going to be hanging open for more than a bit and I don't need the interior lights draining the battery, I can switch the interior lights off to save the battery for starting the vehicle.

[One_Dude]

I don't have any first hand experience with packing a cargo van with sound gear, but I do have a lot of experience packing trucks and hauling loads. I drove an over-the-road truck in the military and we had extensive training in safe loading, and how to secure loads from shifting. Tight packing is one of the methods and strategic strapping is another. Loads that are capable of moving during transit probably will move, and possibly fly around in an emergency situation. You might also think about using cargo netting tied down over the entire load.

 

I have often thought that the perfect truck for the type of loads we musicians haul are the 10 foot box trucks that Uhaul rents. They have a flat floor (except for wheel wells, but they are squared off) and flat straight sides and front and back. They are also tall enough to walk into for most folks. I have been using a conversion van which is far less than ideal; they are built to haul people not cargo.

 

One_Dude

 

[RoadRanger]

Something I've done to the vans I've had and have that seems worth the effort: I install disconnect switches in the vicinity of the cargo doors to over-ride the door actuated interior light switches... so if the doors are going to be hanging open for more than a bit and I don't need the interior lights draining the battery' date=' I can switch the interior lights off to save the battery for starting the vehicle.[/quote']Usually the panel dimmer has "clicks" full on to force the interior lights "on" and full off to disable the interior lights. I've not needed to use it as much since I finally bought a new battery, the old one would not start the engine from the interior light being on after 20 minutes or so .

[Craig Vecchione]

Huh, in my experience, I've never had a vehicle that had a full "off" position for the dash dimmer, and always wished they had this feature.

[Audiopile]

Our Tahoe has a button on the dash, that I believe is suppose to over-ride the interior lights/ option to shut the interior lights off when a door is open... I think that's what it's suppose to do... 'cept it won't stay "in"... so it's functionally a momentary switch... shuts the interior lights off for as long as I care to stand there holding the switch "in". Once it actually did stay in, maybe like it's suppose to, but then it wouldn't cycle back out... permanently disabling the interior lights... till I "fixed it" by pushing the button lots of times till it happened to come out... and then I put a piece of gaff tape over it so I'm not tempted to use it. I guess I could replace the button... Chances of getting around to that are likely slim.

[wesg]

Thanks, good feedback all!

 

Craig - divider has been updated as my #1 priority for this vehicle. I've found a couple of good used candidates within 150 miles; I've decided to buy one which was purpose-made for my vehicle rather than a generic one-size-fits-all. I haven't decided if I care about a divider window (since there are no rear windows in the van), and I'm a bit perplexed about the large supply of dividers with a square hole in them, near the floor, between the seats. I guess for long boards?

 

I spent the weekend working on minor interior issues, such as trimming the rubber floor to fit this van correctly, painting the insides of the doors, coating the tail of the bed in bedliner, etc .... this meant unloading and loading my gear a few times, since much of it lives in the van. I've loaded the organ onto organ dollies now (instead 2 halves on a hand truck), and was surprised to see how much room that creates (although it's a lot more work to push up the ramp!).

 

I was originally thinking Craig might be nuts for suggesting floor-level E-track, but now that I'm getting organized, I'm thinking it might be the way to go. I have to decide how/if it should play with the rubber floor - I like the rubber floor. I could potentially put plywood under it, and cut it to take E-track somehow...or maybe I could just cut out the 1/2" underlayment where the etrack will go, and bolt through the rubber. Lots to think about! Having a look through freight-forwarder forums is helping.

 

As for door switches.........I wish mine had sensors! I have to walk to the driver's door and turn the lights on every 15 minutes or so. Dang battery-saver!

 

My old van, Montana SV6, has both an interior lights override (turn them all off) and ability to completely dim the dash. Except for the warning lights and the highbean indicator.

 

I have also been eyeing those aluminium trifold ramps. Hoping to get one someday, waiting for something used to come up within driving distance. My galvanized steel + wood ramp works well, but is HEAVY and awkward.

 

https://www.therapysupply.ca/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1310&language=en&currency=CAD

 

Wes

[onelife]

I agree that protecting yourself is the priority and, from my perspective, strapping things down is well worth the effort.

 

I rolled a Toyota station wagon with a Twin Reverb laying down flat in the back and I consider myself lucky to be able to make this post today.

[JIM683]

here is the link to the one I bought. http://www.discountramps.com/bariatric-multifold-ramp/p/BAR/

 

they have several lengths. I think mine is the 8 foot length

[dbMontana]

here is the link to the one I bought. http://www.discountramps.com/bariatric-multifold-ramp/p/BAR/

 

they have several lengths. I think mine is the 8 foot length

 

So can we assume the use of the term "bariatric" here refers to its load rating? Interesting marketing strategy if so.

[Craig Vecchione]

Yeah, it's made for "big-boned" folks to be wheeled into and out of vehicles. Kinda sad that there's any market for this at all.

[Craig Vecchione]

Thanks, good feedback all!

 

Craig - divider has been updated as my #1 priority for this vehicle. I've found a couple of good used candidates within 150 miles; I've decided to buy one which was purpose-made for my vehicle rather than a generic one-size-fits-all. I haven't decided if I care about a divider window (since there are no rear windows in the van), and I'm a bit perplexed about the large supply of dividers with a square hole in them, near the floor, between the seats. I guess for long boards?

 

I spent the weekend working on minor interior issues, such as trimming the rubber floor to fit this van correctly, painting the insides of the doors, coating the tail of the bed in bedliner, etc .... this meant unloading and loading my gear a few times, since much of it lives in the van. I've loaded the organ onto organ dollies now (instead 2 halves on a hand truck), and was surprised to see how much room that creates (although it's a lot more work to push up the ramp!).

 

I was originally thinking Craig might be nuts for suggesting floor-level E-track, but now that I'm getting organized, I'm thinking it might be the way to go. I have to decide how/if it should play with the rubber floor - I like the rubber floor. I could potentially put plywood under it, and cut it to take E-track somehow...or maybe I could just cut out the 1/2" underlayment where the etrack will go, and bolt through the rubber. Lots to think about! Having a look through freight-forwarder forums is helping.

 

As for door switches.........I wish mine had sensors! I have to walk to the driver's door and turn the lights on every 15 minutes or so. Dang battery-saver!

 

My old van, Montana SV6, has both an interior lights override (turn them all off) and ability to completely dim the dash. Except for the warning lights and the highbean indicator.

 

I have also been eyeing those aluminium trifold ramps. Hoping to get one someday, waiting for something used to come up within driving distance. My galvanized steel + wood ramp works well, but is HEAVY and awkward.

 

https://www.therapysupply.ca/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1310&language=en&currency=CAD

 

Wes

 

I would definitely floor the van with plywood. Yes, it's a bit of a project, but the long-term bennies far outweight the time spent to do this. If you've got the rubber mat cut to fit well, you can use it as a pattern. I did this, and it worked better than I anticipated.

 

E-track and ratchet straps can easily deform the body side panels, which is another reason for floor mounting the track. If you space it above the frame bolts, it's a good compromise of strength and strap placement. Don't assume you have to use the mounting holes on the sides...you can also put carriage bolts through the slots...you don't need every slot, so if that's more convenient to mount, use the slots.

 

I would go with 3/4" plywood floor, and put the e-track on whatever ply will result in the track sitting just below the plywood.

 

If the van had a windows in the side doors, get a partition with the 'window' cutouts. Makes right turns at stop signs a bit less adventurous... The hole at the bottom of the center panel on some partitions is exactly as you guessed, for long materials.

 

Oh, and be sure to get the 'wing' kit with the largest setback. The wings determine haw far back the seats can be tilted or slid.

[Dendy Jarrett]

Replacing the lights with LED bulbs will help. They draw significantly less amps from the battery

[WynnD]

I have a 760 Leslie and put some holding straps attached to the wall so it wouldn't roll around on it's wheels. I don't have that van anymore, but wish I did. It was huge!