DX11 for $25

[trevcda]

I was at a pawn shop today and ran across some gear. I bought an Alesis D4 drum module for five bucks as is no power supply. Got it home, where I've got a box full of old Alesis power supplies, and it works fine. Apparently you just have to know the difference between an AC and a DC transformer. Who knew? I did, that's who! It's been my mission to get even with pawn shops after losing so much gear to them in my usually broke youth. My favorite is the Yamaha S-08 I got for $20 because it wasn't making any sound. Probably because it didn't have speakers like the rest of the Casio junk on the shelf!

 

Anyway, they also have a Yamaha DX11 that I've got them talked down to $25 on. It has a broken key and, according to the start up display, needs the ROM battery changed. The broken key is not a huge deal as it will most likely get used as a module more than a perfomance keyboard. I don't know how big of a deal the battery is to change, although I can't see it being any more difficult than the batteries on my other gear. I've always wanted a DX7. I don't know. What do you guys think?

[piano39]

Go for it. That's a steal. The pawnshops in my neck of the woods charge twice the going ebay rate.

[McHale]

Based on the age, it should be a CR2032. Whether it's a solder in or pop in, I have no idea. It's a simple change either way. I'd jump on it.

[DINpluggedIN]

 

I've always wanted a DX7. I don't know. What do you guys think?

 

Just keep in mind that the DX11 is 4-operator, 8-algorithm, 8-waveform FM, while the DX7 is 6-operator, 32-algorithm, sinewave. It's possible to make similar-sounding voices on the two types in some cases, but the there are definite differences. If you want a DX7, the DX11 may not be your best choice. On the other hand, the price seems right.

[trevcda]

Soooo... I went back, fully intending to bring this thing home. This time I brought a good pair of headphones with me as I wasn't even sure it would make noise. I fired it up and it was basically unresponsive and was displaying erratic characters on its display. After it had been on for awhile, I finally got to bring up its A and B preset banks, making me suspect that the odd behavior was a result of the battery issue. Then I realized that there was more than one key broken. There were two C# keys an octave apart on the lower keys along with C on the upper keys that were broken. One key I was okay with. I can work around that. Three- now I'm not so sure. Many of the buttons need to be pressed really hard to make them work. This thing probably needs a major cleaning on top of everything else. But it's twenty-three years old, right? Once I got it playing, I found the factory sounds to be uninspiring to say the least. So once again I'm on the fence about adopting yet another keyboard that's needs a fair amount of repair and TLC. Maybe I can talk them down to ten bucks?

[sprinklerhead]

I have a DW-6000 that I picked up for $50 including an ATA flight case. I knew the keyboard was pretty beat up when I tested it, but didn't really care. I was getting a nice flight case for $50 with a free DW-6000. I've since opened it up and discovered just how bad it is inside. Surface rust on the bottom of the case, super dusty and about half the programming keys don't work. It still works fine when controlled via midi though. Now I'm on the fence in tearing it apart and converting it into a module. Sure, it's only a DW-6000 rather than the preferred DW-8000 which I regret selling 10 years ago, but it still functions and I can't bring myself to toss it or sell it for parts. For $25, pick it up and convert it into a module. Might just inspire me to do the same with my DW-6000.

[Acid Hazard]

Replace the battery and use it as a large tone module =o]

[mikelpanky]

I have a DX11. Lots of fun, once you get past the ChgRAMBatt screen

 

I still haven't gotten around to changing it, but I know it is soldered onto the board. I would recommend installing a clip when/if you replace; that's what I plan to do.

 

It's a pretty fun board, very interesting sounds to be made. No fun to program of course, but you get the feeling of accomplishment when you're done!

[less_cunning]

 

Go for it. That's a steal. The pawnshops in my neck of the woods charge twice the going ebay rate.

 

 

yeah that's stupid IDK pawn shops do that.

[Suilebhain]

The odd characters and quirky response I would say is definitely the battery. Problem is those old Yammies have the battery soldered in. I should know, I just changed the one on my V-50 not that long ago.

 

Make sure to buy a battery holder and solder THAT in so that future battery changes are easy. Also allows you not to apply heat directly to the battery.

[wildpaws]

 

The odd characters and quirky response I would say is definitely the battery. Problem is those old Yammies have the battery soldered in. I should know, I just changed the one on my V-50 not that long ago. Make sure to buy a battery holder and solder THAT in so that future battery changes are easy. Also allows you not to apply heat directly to the battery.

 

 

If you buy a replacement CR2032 with solder tags already attached to the battery, then you don't have to apply heat to the battery. CR2032s with solder tags attached can be found online for $3 US or so. Battery holders are a good option provided you find a way to secure the holder inside the synth.

Clyde

[xanderbeanz]

the DX11 is no holds barred my favourite synth, it has exactly (or nearly exactly)the same FM chip in as the Sega Megadrive, the brass preset on it is the same as the brass sound from Green Hill Zone for godsake! It does all your usual cheesy FM distorted electric guitars, a few nice pads and leads, but then it does CRAZY DIRTY bass sounds, heavily distorted FM madness and sample and hold poly sounds.

 

It is 8 part multi-timbral, and, combining this with the pitch envelope (a feature only the DX11 has, and is absent from the TX81z) you can turn it into a CRAZY FM DRUM MACHINE.

 

100s of patches available online (it can load both DX and TX, which when you search through, you'll find plenty of those megadrive-like sounds, or even highly original weird ones) it is very easy to edit using some free editing software available on the web (i believe i used a TX81z editor and then programmed the pitch EG stuff from the front panel)

 

crap, i need to go and make a demo of this thing!

[Suilebhain]

 

If you buy a replacement CR2032 with solder tags already attached to the battery, then you don't have to apply heat to the battery. CR2032s with solder tags attached can be found online for $3 US or so. Battery holders are a good option provided you find a way to secure the holder inside the synth. Clyde

 

 

I soldered the holder in place of the battery. had to do a little macgyvering using the old tags, attaching one to the post on the holder because the holder has a greater diameter than the battery, but it worked (did this twice on different synths).

[kpatz]

I wouldn't turn down any working synth for $25. Even if you don't like it, fix it up and sell it for profit.

 

The DX11 does have one thing that makes it worth the $25. "Lately Bass". If you've heard of the TX81Z, that's just a rackmount DX11.

 

All the Yammies of that vintage had soldered in batteries. They aren't that hard to replace once you get the board out, if you know how to solder. I usually put a battery holder in to make future battery changes easier.