How to set this up

[Mikeyxcore]

So I have a lot of questions, and I can't find any answers to this.

 

I am okay at playing keys, and coming from a guitar background, I purchased a Korg Microkorg like every other guitarist. I've had experience using Reason 5 for a long time, but things seem so different when they get physical, haha.

 

I currently own:

Yamaha PSR-190 (That I learned to play on a decade ago, but do not plan on using)

Korg Microkorg

Quik-Lok Z-726

QSC K12

MacBook Pro

 

At first I was looking for a MIDI controller just to make playing the MK easier (octaves, key size, etc.), but now I need it mostly from playing softsynth from the MBP. I really really like the M-Audio Axiom Pro 61, but if you guys have a better suggestion, I'd love to hear it.

 

Here's where I'm most lost:

I need a controller for

1) Softsynth from the MBP

2) MK

 

I don't need to be able to control the MK, but it'd be nice. Is it possible to make it shift between the two?

That aside, how would I even go about connecting the three devices through the same sound system? For practice, for example, I only have my K12 (that I am sharing with our vocalist), so how would I hook these up?

I need something good for a live setting.

 

I've tried doing research and asking around, but no luck. /:

I'm sure you guys get a lot of lolguitarists who suddenly purchase a MK and come begging for answers, but I'm legitimately confused and need a good explanation. Thanks in advance. (:

[gregwar]

midi controller to mbp - usb cable

midi controller to microkorg - midi cable

3 audio sources - small analog mixer or multi channel amp/pa

 

the midi controller depends on preference and budget.

 

I suggest to go try them out at the store

 

shopping second hand on craigslist or whatever can be either good or bad, but especially for noobs it's not the safest bet. especially cheap plastic midi controllers check that all the knobs, sliders and keys work.

[MikeyParent]

I am a very happy Axiom 61 Pro owner. I find it to be a nice board but you will have to do some tweaking and menu diving if you want to get the most use out of it. I am using it to control VSTs on a Receptor.

 

Also, IIRC there is a Hyper Control profile specifically for Reason should you go that route. What are you using for software on the MBP?

 

Slightly OT - I am curious to hear how your QuikLok 726 holds up because mine did not hold up well at all. {censored}ty build quality IME.

[Mikeyxcore]

 

I am a very happy Axiom 61 Pro owner. I find it to be a nice board but you will have to do some tweaking and menu diving if you want to get the most use out of it. I am using it to control VSTs on a Receptor. Also, IIRC there is a Hyper Control profile specifically for Reason should you go that route. What are you using for software on the MBP? Slightly OT - I am curious to hear how your QuikLok 726 holds up because mine did not hold up well at all. {censored}ty build quality IME.

 

 

I don't have a full version DAW on the MBP yet (Reason was what I used on my PC). I may or may not get reason for the laptop, as well. I think I'm going to experiment with some other ones first. Any recommendations?

 

So far I'm liking the stand. I got it because it was one of the more inexpensive two-tier Z-stands, and so far it's been doing a fine job. It can definitely hold my weight, although that's not much at all! :b

 

Thanks for the help you guys.

[ChristianRock]

I'm using Reaper on my Macbook Pro and I'm pretty happy with it.

 

If you like the Axiom Pro 61, go for it! It looks cool too, I think.

 

You say you have 3 sound sources but it's only two, the Macbook and the MicroKorg, right?

 

I think that once you start controlling your Macbook synths from the Axiom you will feel less and less need to play the MicroKorg with both hands and you'll mostly use it for leads and pads, maybe bass. But with only 4 notes of polyphony I don't think you'll be wanting to control it from the Axiom. Just my opinion.

 

As far as mixer, that little Behringer looks good. If you want stereo outs ART makes a similar one which also has headphone outs, for a few bucks more.

[MikeyParent]

 

So far I'm liking the stand. I got it because it was one of the more inexpensive two-tier Z-stands, and so far it's been doing a fine job. It can definitely hold my weight, although that's not much at all! :b

 

My issue is that I am finding it is not withstanding setup/tear-down very well.

[SpaceNorman]

 

My issue is that I am finding it is not withstanding setup/tear-down very well.

 

 

I use a Z726L as part of my rig. If I had to tear it down completely for transport - I think I'd find that to be an issue too. Fortunately, I'm using a full size Ford Econoline E150 van for transport - and have enough room in the van to transport the base without disassembling it. I simple remove the 2nd tier support arms and throw the (intact) base on top of the rest of my gear. The base is a little cumbersome to carry - especially when negotiating tight spots (like going thru doorways). However, once you figure out the positioning - even that's not a big deal.

 

Taking the transport issues out of the equation - it's a great stand! It's stable as a rock, plenty of wide open space underneath it for pedals (and legs if you're a "sitter"!). The 2nd tier support arms support a ton - and provide the mechanism for vertical, horizontal placement of the top tier - as well as control of angle of the top tier. I also like the fact that armed with a couple of velcro straps - the structure of the base allows you to "dress" cables along the supports such that it really adds to the aesthetics of the rig.

[MikeyParent]

I *slightly* over-tightened one of the screws for the 2nd tier and the casting inside that accepts the screw thread simply came off the main tube... rendering it useless

[wesg]

Are you a "car guy"? Do you know any?

 

I bet you could fix it with a Timesert or Helicoil. Timesert is probably a better choice in this application. The trick will be finding one small enough, these are normally for fixing threads in oil pans, engine heads (spark plug holes), that sort of thing.

 

Another option is to get a welder and drop some slag down the hole, then re-drill and re-tap. Easy job for a good welder and machinist but if you have to pay to get it done then it will NOT be worth your while.

 

A final option of the "half-assed but maybe enough" variety would be to re-tap to the next size up, or half-size if you can, i.e. change from metric to UNC or UNF sizes. Like if the original is M6, you can maybe re-tap to 0.25" which is 6.3mm. At least it would be cheap to try -- free if you own a tap and die set.