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20mm in depth tremolo system


supertester

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Hello,

 

I own an old EL Degas guitar and need to replace the tremolo system (The original one is missing) on it but I seem to be having some trouble finding a tremolo system with 20mm in depth.

 

Can someone here point me in the right direction to buy one or offer any advice on what other non original model I could use if I cannot find one?

 

Thanks

 

Steve

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I have no idea what kind Tremolo you need without a better description or some pics posted. That company makes a gazillion different copies of popular guitars.

 

If its a fender type bridge that's a pretty simple fix. The length of the block isn't that big a deal so long as the springs are fairly level. You can even use a longer block and simply cut or grind it down to whatever size you need then drill new spring holes.

 

What you do have to worry about is the string spacing. Many imports use a narrower string spacing then a traditional fender. Even there I know Kramer and I believe Warmouth has some narrower spacing's. The mounting screws can have different spacing too. I've had to fill in the old holes with epoxy, sand it flat and drill new ones before.

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I have no idea what kind Tremolo you need without a better description or some pics posted. That company makes a gazillion different copies of popular guitars.

 

If its a fender type bridge that's a pretty simple fix. The length of the block isn't that big a deal so long as the springs are fairly level. You can even use a longer block and simply cut or grind it down to whatever size you need then drill new spring holes.

 

What you do have to worry about is the string spacing. Many imports use a narrower string spacing then a traditional fender. Even there I know Kramer and I believe Warmouth has some narrower spacing's. The mounting screws can have different spacing too. I've had to fill in the old holes with epoxy, sand it flat and drill new ones before.

 

Hi WRGKMC,

 

Thank you for the reply....Here are a couple of pictures of a guitar exactly like mine before it got gutted of its entire bridge.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

fetch?filedataid=123144

fetch?filedataid=123145

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Nice guitar, real unique 👍.

Three years ago, I had a plexiglass 70's Strat styled head stock with 22 stainless steel frets and modded out the head stock to use a Wilkinson roller bridge.

I traded it for some Kramer Knight Swan neck and some extra Floyd Rose parts.

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Super, it look like you've been looking for a bridge for 6 months or so, probably about time you found one.

 

First, I don't think anyone on this forum can look at that picture and tell you what kind of bridge will work. If you have access to that guitar then obviously you should look for brand names, model numbers, etc on the bridge). If you can't do that here is the way I would approach it in my shop.

 

Put some masking tape on the guitar around the area of the bridge cavity. Measure the scale length and mark it on the tape (two times the distance from the nut to the 12th fret). Measure all of the mounting holes (particularly the front ones or the center of studs if that is the way it mounts. Most manufactures reference mounting position to the front outside screws or the studs. Note that they might be asymetrical - some are so measure carefully. Measure and draw the layout of the cavity relative to the front mounting screws on a piece of paper.

 

Now start surfing thru every manufacture's web site looking for their routing template and installation instructions. Some vendors such as Steward McDonald will publish these on their website - but what you are trying to do is find something that fits your hole location AND your scale length. The bridge you choose will probably have the farthest forward location of the saddles roughly at the scale length position - this is critical. Double check that the back route is at least close to yours.

 

Last, but not least, put a straightedge on your fretboard and measure the height off the top of the guitar at the scale length position. Compare that with the manufacturer's recommendation - that will tell you if you have enough travel in the saddle height adjustments to get the action you want.

 

Here is one manufacturer's layout sheet just to give you an example of what you are looking for (I chose the Kahler because it is about 20mm in depth, It does not use screws and claws like your picture, however)

 

https://www.kahlerusa.com/public/pdf/6200RIMA.PDF

 

And here is a simple router template that I made to install one of those bridges. It helps me locate scale length, mounting holes and cavity relative to the guitar center line and scale. What you are trying to do is reverse engineer that.

 

IMG_3786_zps1og3jqmr.jpg

 

If none of this works then you may need to either make an adapter plate and/or to route the cavity bigger (people have to do that all the time when they put Floyds in Fenders)

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