Is my Stratocaster Series / Parallel Switch Wiring Correct?

[NateCordova]

Hello dear forum users.

 

I would like to get some advice from guitar wiring “experts” out there, because I want to do the following on my Stratocaster:

 

Wire a Series/Parallel 2DPT On/Off that allows me to switch between Parallel or Series in Positions 2 and 4. Also, I want a single Master Tone, Star Grounding and 50s wiring (tone after volume).

 

This is a schematic of the Series Parallel switch on a REGULAR strat:

 

 

But like I said, I wanna do it with a master tone, stargrounded and with 50s wiring. So I tried to “convert” the schematic and ended up with this:

 

 

Is my converted schematic correct? If not, can you “experts” give me any advice?

 

Thank you very much.

[WRGKMC]

The the third leg on the volume pot needs to be grounded to the can and the can needs to be grounded to the plug sleeve/ground. Also the two legs coming off the tone pot are backwards.

 

The center leg on the tone pot connects to the cap and then the other side of the cap connects to the hot lead from the jack.

 

You have the outside leg on the pot connected to the cap, then it going to ground. It works but the hum is much worse.

 

The outside leg of the tone pot goes to ground.

 

Be sure you add a ground wire to the tone and volume pots to shield them from hum. The cans may be mounted on foil on the pick guard but its a poor electric conductor. Always add the hard ground wires. You'll likely want to add one to the DPDT can as well. Otherwise when you touch the switch it will induce hum. Soldering a ground wire to the switch can is tricky because those cheap switches melt so easily. Be sure you heat sink the leads on the switch too. Use hemostats between the base of the switch contacts and the end of the eyelet so when you solder the wires on you don't melt the plastic. When you heat up those switch leads the plastic melts before the solder does do take the extra time to heat sink. Otherwise you wind up with a dead switch.