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mounting Weber 12" Alnico Blue Dog with wood screws


blindopher

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Hi, i'm nearing completion of my DIY speaker cabinet. Total noob question: i'm noticing the holes on the speaker frame are partially covered by cone paper. What is the deal with that? I can only assume this bit of paper is meant to be punched through by whatever mounting device I use. Is this correct?

 

I realize the consensus these days is a T-nut mount, but i'm going for the wood-screw-from-the back-into-the-baffle approach as I've seen in the link below. My baffle is 18mm birch ply. What screw length is recommended? Since the holes in the speaker frame are obviously WIDER than the screws i'll use, i'm assuming I will need to hold my speaker and give it a final alignment over the hole before tightening the screws? But then I won't be able to see it from the front for accurate alignment...

 

kindly advise

 

thanx!

 

 

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Yes the paper covering the holes is simply a manufacturing technique when the cone is made. You simply punch through the paper.

 

If you're worried about rear alignment with the hole you should give it your best guess, then use a pencil and draw a circle around the speaker

with it set in place then lift the speaker and see if the circle is even around the hole. If not make corrections.

 

I suggest you use washers on those wood screws. It helps even up the tension on the wood screws and helps prevent damage to the basket.

Be sure the screws aren't too long and come out the front and tighten them down slowly when you get close like you would a drum head one side

than the other working in the order of an 8 pointed star.

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Thanx!!! A few more if I may:

 

1. The screw holes in the basket being as big as they are, where is the best screw placement? The outer or inner side of the hole? (e.i. towards the speaker, or away from it?)

 

2 Speakers are not really SUPPORTED and CENTERED by the screw, but rather HELD by the tension created between screw head and baffle - is this correct? (Hence the need for slight alignment over the baffle hole). Sorry for being anal, but I really need to understand this.

 

3. Is no. 2 true also when using the Fender reverse-screw and bolt system, or a T-nut based mounting scheme? (Meaning I would still need to align the speaker when using these mounting schemes?)

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If you're using wood screws to hold it in I suggest the outside. If you get too close to the hole you cut the more likely you are to have the wood chip away.

Pre drill the screw holes with a bit smaller than the screw is good too. Less chance of screwing the screws in at an angle.

Washers should equalize the tension across the basket edge.

 

It would be better if you used machine screws though. If you haven't put the grill cloth on yet, you simply drill a hole all the way through,

Then use a flush mount screw from the front and use a nut to hold the speaker in place. A Flush mount screw has a V shape on the end.

You just ream the wood out a little with a larger drill bit so its even with the baffle front. This way your cloth lays flat on the front.

You can even put a little wood glue on the bolt under the head which

keeps the screw from spinning around when you put the nuts on the inside to tighten the speaker in place.

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Hear me now,.... believe me later.... ;^) Mark where you want the four screws to be. Screw-in the screws before mounting the speaker (pre-threaded). Remove the screws, mount the speaker with screws. MOST IMPORTANT Get a thick piece of cardboard and hold it against the speaker frame while screwing. This will shield the cone from being punctured when your screwdriver slips off the screw.head. No BS, seen this happen too many times.

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