Members mfc_pj Posted August 23, 2010 Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 I need some help wiring a footswitch with led for a fender reissue amp. I have the enclosure, 2 dpdt switches, 2 led's, cables, everything partswise. Now could somebody help me wire this thing? Input on the Amp is a 1/4 jack.A little wiring diagram/layout would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Fred Buzz Posted August 23, 2010 Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 You have to be a bit more specific about the amp type, but this is widely used diagram Another one here http://www.stratopastor.org.uk/strato/amps/prii/footswitch/footswitch.html and this one has a lot of diagrams: http://www.blueguitar.org/schems.htm#Fender Also take note of this: "The switching is done through adjusting the voltage. It's actually not too complicated, but the switch sends a signal to the amp and depending what LED is on drops the voltage and tells the amps internal IC chips to swtich. " So it is not a straight-forward switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PermaNoobie Posted August 23, 2010 Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 do you have a regular,n non-led, footswtich now or are you brewing it up from scratch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mfc_pj Posted August 23, 2010 Author Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 I haven't got the amp yet so the footswitch isn't here either but it's a Princeton Reverb Reissue with this standard "vintage" type footswitch for vibrato and reverb without led's. It gets plugged into the amp by one 1/4 jack (stereo i guess) and I want to build a switch with led's in hammond case connected with a stereo jack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Fred Buzz Posted August 23, 2010 Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 I haven't got the amp yet so the footswitch isn't here either but it's a Princeton Reverb Reissue with this standard "vintage" type footswitch for vibrato and reverb without led's. It gets plugged into the amp by one 1/4 jack (stereo i guess) and I want to build a switch with led's in hammond case connected with a stereo jack. What do you want to do, build a new switch or customize the one you haven't got yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members fatusstratus Posted August 23, 2010 Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 mfc - does the current footswitch have resistors or anything in it?or is it just grounding the tip and sleeve to turn stuff on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Fred Buzz Posted August 23, 2010 Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 mfc - does the current footswitch have resistors or anything in it?or is it just grounding the tip and sleeve to turn stuff on? "I haven't got the amp yet so the footswitch isn't here either" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members fatusstratus Posted August 23, 2010 Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 erp - whoops Ok "when you get it..." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Fred Buzz Posted August 23, 2010 Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 Actually, if does have transistors or flipflops or zener diodes in it (which isn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members fatusstratus Posted August 23, 2010 Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 A voltmeter will give you the answer. "I haven't got the amp yet so the footswitch isn't here either" :poke::poke::poke: :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members SomeoneYouKnew Posted August 23, 2010 Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 I haven't got the amp yet so the footswitch isn't here either but it's a Princeton Reverb Reissue with this standard "vintage" type footswitch for vibrato and reverb without led's. It gets plugged into the amp by one 1/4 jack (stereo i guess) and I want to build a switch with led's in hammond case connected with a stereo jack.This amp is not wired to be able to supply DC power to LEDs in a footswitch. It's meant to kill the tremolo and reverb by shorting the signals to ground. Tip to sleeve will short the oscillator for the tremolo. Ring to sleeve will short the reverb audio. To power LEDs you will need double pole switches, some resistors, and a battery in the new footswitch. Replacing batteries is always a nuisance. Or you could do some major-league modification to the amp and use relays inside the amp to do the switching and a DC power supply to provide the current. Current would flow through each relay through the cable, through the switch, through its associated LED, then finally to the sleeve connection. (ground) A mod like that is not for a newbie. http://support.fender.com/schematics/guitar_amplifiers/65_Princeton_Reverb.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mfc_pj Posted August 23, 2010 Author Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 To power LEDs you will need double pole switches, some resistors, and a battery in the new footswitch. Replacing batteries is always a nuisance.http://support.fender.com/schematics/guitar_amplifiers/65_Princeton_Reverb.pdf That's what I wanted to do from the beginning...no midification to the amp or the original footswitch, just build a new one. I have everything ready. Have a case here, two fotswitches (dpdt) 2 led's, 2 resistors, cables, a stereo jack plug. As the amp uses a stereo jack I could use a stereo cable. I just need to know how to wire it as I'm not shure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members lerxst1031 Posted August 23, 2010 Members Share Posted August 23, 2010 I too am interested in this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members SomeoneYouKnew Posted August 24, 2010 Members Share Posted August 24, 2010 Okay gang, here we go... The ground marked at the top center can be a machine screw with a solder lug or some other method of connecting to the metal box. If you use a jack instead of a cable pigtail you can just ground at the sleeve connection of the jack. Resistors, maybe try 1.5k ohms. This will give you about 4.7 mA of current through each LED. If you don't need as much brightness try larger values for the resistors. Less current = more battery life. I arranged this so the LEDs will illuminate when the signal is not shorted, allowing the effects to work. Illuminated = effect on. The rest should be self-explanatory. I'll answer questions if needed. Have I put a smile on anyone's face? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mfc_pj Posted August 24, 2010 Author Members Share Posted August 24, 2010 That's great, thank you very much! I'm gonna use a jack plug so i'm gonna solder everything that goes to ground to the sleeve, right? thanks again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members SomeoneYouKnew Posted August 24, 2010 Members Share Posted August 24, 2010 That's great, thank you very much! I'm gonna use a jack plug so i'm gonna solder everything that goes to ground to the sleeve, right? thanks again... yep. The sleeve connection will make contact with the metal metal box through the bushing of the jack. This will help shield the wiring to prevent hum from getting into the reverb signal. Choose a stereo cable that's long enough to reach but not excessively long. The longer it is, the more you'll have an opportunity for hum to get in. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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