Members Tomm Williams Posted December 24, 2012 Members Share Posted December 24, 2012 Thought of an idea for the "signature" on my headstocks. Have a buddy who owns a jewelry store and does stamped engraving on jewelry items with metal stamps. Any problem doing that on a wooden headstock, filling the engraving with color and sanding off the excess? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Kazinator Posted December 24, 2012 Members Share Posted December 24, 2012 Design your lettering, print a mirror image onto transfer paper, transfer with clothing iron. Then clear-coat. Easy, cheap and can look very good!I haven't tried it on wood myself but I've read some success stories from people who have done it on wood. I've had great success transferring to a one-sided PCB: the circuit artwork to the copper side, as well as the silkscreen layer to the component side. I use pages torn from a glossy magazine make decent transfer paper, and use water to dissolve and gently peel it away, layer by layer.Needless to say, try it on a scrap piece of maple first, or whatever wood you are using.I'm currently struggling with toner transfer to smooth (400 grit sanded) aluminum, so far with disappointing results.If you screw up and need to try again, toner will remove with acetone. Isopropyl will do next to nothing to it, which is useful if you want to clean up around the artwork without damaging it before coating it.You can do colors by using a color laser. There is also something called "thermally reactive foil" (TRF). With TRF, you can change the color of an existing toner transfer. It's basically a film which sticks to toner (and not to the substrate). So for instance you can transfer regular black toner, then turn it white with white TRF. There exists metallic TRF also.Quick google finds this:http://howaboutorange.blogspot.ca/20...with-free.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted December 25, 2012 Members Share Posted December 25, 2012 Waterslide decals are the most common. Stamping wood works OK for serial numbers. Dont think it would work very good for a larger label What is usually used on guitar is a dremil router jig and cut the area out precisely. Then you'd use inlay to fill in so theres a contrast between the wood and the name. Just punching the wood and compressing it is going to crack the wood fibers and look jaggad around the edges, plus there isnt a whole lot of contrast between it and the untouched wood unless you fill in the punched area with something of a different color weather it be paint, epoxy or inlay. to cut the Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Bryan316 Posted January 7, 2013 Members Share Posted January 7, 2013 Burn the logo. Ask your buddy to make the logo, and then you propane torch it, and hold it down. Done. Burning is fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members larryguitar Posted January 8, 2013 Members Share Posted January 8, 2013 If you go the inlay route, consider 'Inlace' rather than epoxy; can do MOP and similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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