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  • #46
    After the fight of my life, I got the diamonds in, and managed to find a way to get past the impossibility of putting a clear gloss back on sanded-down epoxy. Here's the neck as it sits.

    Getting here involved a lot of headaches that are detailed on my AGF thread the insanitarium, but at one point I thought the whole thing was scheduled for a "unfinished guitar project" listing on ebay. Now, not so much.

    In other news, the front and back, and neck have begun getting cleared. Used a whole can in multiple mist coats on the neck and body. The headstock got extra coats, I would say equal to about six solid coats, after the misting, so that I can get it properly leveled to receive the waterslides.

    Thankfully, NO issues using krylon acrylic clear, over the enamel paint - you just have to be careful by misting, and let the enamel cure for a good two weeks before, (though I admit on the headstock, I gave it maybe a week less than I should, but I had it outside in the heat for a few days too.

    So, despite all the naysayers, and stern warnings and laws of science, religion, and nature - yes, I believe it is entirely possible to use lacquer over enamel. I'm such a rebel. :grin:

    Hope to get at the headstock decaling tonight. While that was all curing, (need 48 hours before I continue the clearing process, I was thinking out loud. Originally I bought the Austin DC to make myself a light relic replica of this '59 dc special, but with a wrap. She's a beauty, ain't she?

    Man everytime I see that one, the gas fumes overwhelm me! However... I wonder if I need a replica... I really covet guitars that nobody else has, or will ever have.

    A couple of weeks ago, I found myself at my fave thrift shop, once again, skulking around the ladies' clothing section. They are beginning to look at me kind of wierd over there! Anyway, I snatched up a pretty blouse, (without even trying it on) for a dollar, stuck it under my trenchcoat, and immediately took it home, drew the curtains, and tried it on... my Austin, of course...

    Kind of serendipitous on the similarities on the three above photos, it's like the big guy is trying to tell me something here

    I had the can of krylon, and the wrap bridge left over from stuff I bought for the glaminator but didn't use.
    I'm thinking I would still do a light relic on the DC, but this fabric is extremely mega-cool. It's got some metallics to it as well, might not show up so good in the photo... That with a metallic burst, paisley headstock and bursted paisley neck, I don't know - I'm still undecided, I also have a tobacco strat that would take this fabric nicely too.

    So many ideas. So little time. So goes a modders' life.


    • #47
      You shouldn't have tangle issues even when using different thicknesses of thread. If you are threading it correctly AND NOT INSTALLING THE BOBBIN BACKWARDS, you may have a timing issue with the sewing machine.

      A timing issue will cause the needle to get snapped off underneath the top plate. It happens when the bobbin thing gets out of time from the needle puncher up and downer thinger. Sorry, I'm too tired to try to remember the part names. Some machines only allow you to put the bobbin in one way, so we'll have to ask voodoo what type his is.

      Usually, if it's tangling up, it's caused by incorrect thread tension. The top thread tensioner is easy to adjust. Some machines, like my mother's old Singer, have an adjustable bobbin thread tensioner, too. It's always best to use the same thread for top and bobbin. Otherwise, it's a bitch to get the right combination of thread tension and presser foot pressure.


      • #48
        we've been distracted by the strapmaking adventures, and the man-cave reconfig, but after some trials and tribulations, the Glaminator is moving along nicely.

        while earlier I proclaimed my dominance over the laws of nature, it was perhaps a bit of a premature exclamation... while about 90% of the surface took the lacquer on the enamel with no issues, there were a few spots where, either I did not put enough mist coats on, or I got to aggressive with the "wet" coating. I did suffer some of the dastardly wrinklies, two spots on the front, and one on the back. This was the very worst part... here on the neck which will be unseen in the pocket when the guitar goes back together, so I chose not to fix it, just to to show you more than worst-case what I have been dealing with. Maybe about 30% as bad as this.

        I had small 1" x 2" areas similar to the above, (though not quite so intense) near the vol/tone pots, and on both the front and back upper bout.

        Because I had many coats of lacquer already down, I simply wet sanded the wrinklies out, about half at a time, (depthwise), recoating with maybe six/seven coats of lacquer each time, finally allowing me to level them out, saving me from having to sand through, and re-burst. Phew! Looks like they never happened.

        so here's some more recent refin porn. Please disregard the lint!
        That's one of the hazards of black guitars - gloss black being touted by many as the absolute hardest of the hardest finishes to pull off well. I know understand why.

        I still believe it is possible to do lacquer over enamel, but much care is required. You cannot overshoot in the number of mist coats, and you have to go very carefully after that. not deep wet coats or you will have problems.

        The glaminator waterslide logo did not work out as well as I had hoped. It's silvery, but my gel pen did not go on as smoothly or get even coverage - I've decided the silver or gold gel pens seem to work better with thinner lettering fill. The diamond dots and fretboard will still need a little finessing. That's the other let-down for me on this one, but I believe we will have it looking respectable with a little TLC later on.

        These bits will now go into exile for a while before we bring them back out for final 1500/2000 wetsand, buff, polish etc. There is a bit of orange peel, nothing to keep me from sleeping at night... I also should note these are shade pics, but when this thing is in the sun, those reflective foil bits can nearly blind a fella. the whole inside burst just lights up...

        Quite reluctantly, I'm resisting the opportunity for a mockup at this point.


        • #49
          Wow, I just saw the pictures of the Austin LP. That's photoshop right? I didn't get from the post whether or not you'd actually made it or were still planning it. It's really trippy looking with the paisley against the solid colors of the hardware, I feel like I'm looking at a magic-eye poster. I don't know how fabric that thick is gonna sit right on top of a guitar, that's quite a talent you've got there.
          <div class="signaturecontainer">Overdone, Overdrive, Over-live, Override</div>


          • #50
            love ur efforts and ideas!
            u go gurl.
            check out my stuff http://youtu.be/Buya2j06WwU<div class="signaturecontainer"><font color="red"><font size="1"><font face="Comic Sans MS"><b>Read your Bible, son. Genesis 6:6, Isiah 55:8, John 14:6<br><br></b></font></font></font></div>


            • #51
              Well that was a photoshop mockup - plenty of people have fabric covered guitars, it's a whole refin sub-genre.

              I'm not sure if I'm going to do that, or try an antigua effect. Heck it's already yella


              • #52
                Very interesting. I guess you do it the way you did the wrapping paper? Some thin glue and a buttload of clear coats? I wouldn't have imagined that working, but I guess it must. Sweet.
                <div class="signaturecontainer">Overdone, Overdrive, Over-live, Override</div>


                • #53
                  Very interesting. I guess you do it the way you did the wrapping paper? Some thin glue and a buttload of clear coats? I wouldn't have imagined that working, but I guess it must. Sweet.

                  If you are interested, this is one of the better tutorials on how to do this...


                  Some swear by modge podge instead of glue, however, in my experience modge podge is too soft to sand properly - I'm experimenting right now with fabric soaked in sanding sealer, and weldbond glue which seems to work pretty well in my tests.

                  The trick is to keep bleed through on the fabric to a minimum, (in my case, the fabric soak method is to force the whole thing to bleed through evenly) and use an adhesive compatible with lacquer. Then, most typically a burst is applied to hide the edge.

                  Yes, quite similar to the paper wrap method, though a much thicker finish. Tone naysayers will shudder.


                  • #54
                    I alluded above a major man-cave project I had been putting off and wanted to get done. So when a couple of a rainy days rolled in it was perfect for what I had planned.

                    Look at this friggin' mess. I'm such a disgrace. It's been this way for three years. Sure I been gettin lots of ya-ya's out in here, I have a fairly basic DAW going, and I also have been using the space to slowly digitize my vinyl collection. But I can't turn hardly around in this 5 ft. by 7 ft. space, without smacking the headstock against a wall or a hanging item. Not good at all. You can't RAWK while you are ********************-footin' around.

                    Starting to look a bit like Yngwie's place. Except no room left for NGD's, and no garage full of ferraris

                    Tearing it all down and cleaning it out took two hours.

                    Shortly before my break, I picked up this old entertainment centre thing for $30. It also had a couple of drawers and a slide out media shelf, and all kinds of goodies. I had lots of dreams about how I was going to configure it. I took it apart almost immediately, and it's been leaning against the wall in pieces upstairs for the last three weeks. I have a patient wife. first, I built a basic shelf.

                    This shelf really is not much use, though it is about 20" deep, I will only have about 6 useable inches when I am done... hopefully just enough for a nice LED monitor - someday.... :grin:

                    Then, I built another shelf thingy, but this one is about 5 inches lower than the other one, and is on casters. Because I am a righty, I had to reconfigure the whole thing, because playing at the DAW requires room on the left hand side, that's where most of the other niceties will go. It's on casters, so I can roll it out frontwise and easily get behind, at the patches. The long end will typically only have the keyboard, maybe my V-amp on it, papers, charts etc... - the jutty out thing on the bottom part is for the computer...

                    I'm going to house the my main amp, the princeton chorus on a small stand on the floor underneath where my feets will go. I run the RP-1000 through it clean, so I don't fiddle too much with the controls on that one.

                    Then I got to organizing the gits, (sort of)... - I made a rack last winter, after I was inspired by my dad's gun rack design (it's detailed in the insanitarium on AGF)...

                    two big-a** screws, as well as a couple of 3/8" lag bolts direct into the studs oughta hold 'er. ( I hung on it myself for ten seconds before I started laying in the fiddles). If it handles me at about 170 lbs, should do pretty fine with the gits I figure. There was one guy on AFG who lost a whole wall of guitars after the mounting system failed... the pile of damaged guitars on the floor that he posted was a site to behold.
                    I do not wish to endure such a man-cave calamity.

                    She's filling up. I did screw up on the measurements. I probably should have left at least another half inch between the slots - they go in pretty tight - I'll have to organize them - because each one wants to hang a little differently, some want to skew... also, I was hoping to hang my daughters bye-bye kitty bass, but it was 2" longer than my longest git. oh well, maybe that one will hang on the wall - not like we need it really handy - don't play much bass, anyway.

                    I installed a roll-out shelf for the mixer, on the top of the electronics bay, hooked up a powerbar to the back of the slide-out, shop vac'd it all and loaded the rest of the electronics components into the bottom. rolls in and out real nice, but I better put some felt on the sides - it's built so close, the walls are taking a pounding.

                    Since these photos, I've built a CD shelf that goes behind the guitars, and built a sweet little rolling tool/cord and whatnot cart that slides under the counter out of the DVD storage part of the entertainment centre- I also dove in and untangled the the rats' nest. Yeesh!

                    Most everything is hooked back up, but I won't have the DAW back until I get a new monitor - the 20" tube monitor just had to go... and it seems I have a buzzy xlr cable coming out of the RP which will need to be addressed. Also, I need a nice comfy chair...


                    • #55
                      Wow, lots of pictures!!

                      1.) On the antigua mock-up (great Photoshop work, by the way!), I like the effect, but the colours are icky. Did you just start with a pic of the guitar and "airbrush" over it? What about using a darker version of the base colour, or a corresponding one?

                      2.) What type of sanding sealer did you use on the fabric tests? If this works, I may buy some of whatever it is and try it myself. I really like those paisley swatches!

                      3.) I checked the MSDSs for Mod Podge, Weldbond, and Elmer's Glue-All. None of them are specific enough to tell, but I have worked with Mod Podge before and it smells exactly like Elmer's, which is very similar to Weldbond, if not the same. I've watered down Elmer's before and it comes out just like Mod Podge. YMMV.

                      4.) As I mentioned in my PM to you, I had a comment about the lighting in your Man Cave. What type of bulbs do you have in those lights? I think usually they're incandescent or, heaven forbid, halogen, which heats up a LOT. Have you thought about dumping the spot lights and going with something in a fluorescent? You could even get a neutral-range fluorescent to avoid the old-fashioned-fluorescent depressing yellow hues. Just a thought. Plus, they spread the light more evenly.


                      • #56
                        Hey, that antigua was a photoshop job, and yes the colours are icky. I was trying to approximate the krylon "nickle" metallic I have in stock, but it was a fail. It seems pretty close to some of the dye in the fabric, when I colour sampled it, that is what came up.

                        I've been experimenting with two kinds of sealer, both seem to perform well, but the best seems to be one I picked up at a specialty woodworkers shop in Saskatoon... it's the one on the left - water-based, so I can work with it in the wintertime in the shop. the seller assured me it is very sandable, and compatible with nitro, which would be the eventual top coat, though I am someday hoping to wean myself from nitro, due to it's overall nastiness as far as health is concerned.

                        3. My modge podge will probably dry up before I ever use it again. Too soft. not sandable. No big. it was cheap, and acts that way.

                        4. Lighting in my room kind of sucks I agree. Those were 50 watt spotters in the pots, which was pretty good in the old cave, but don't work too well now. Though in the past, if I stood in one spot, I was pretty sure to get a little hotheaded
                        NOw, the one pot light is too close to the headstocks, and throws too much heat, so I subbed in a 25 watt chandelier bulb - I may just put a mood light in there, or move them around. For that, I'd need to get another ceiling tile and cut new holes, do a little rewireing, no big,. cheap fix - I have the wire on hand. As an ex-TV/film lighting guy don't get me going on the mind-sucking, creativity-sapping power of flourescent lights. I hate them. Hate them, HATE THEM! That said, I'm thinking I will use the portable flouro light bar I used to keep in my kit, and just do a mood fill from the bottom, screw it to the end of the top shelf.

                        The room looks a bit different now that it's pretty much together - found a suitable chair today for $15, so I hope to get a pic or two up later - thanks for your interest!


                        • #57
                          We're getting a bit more adept at the strapmaking... here's most of what I have created so far...

                          I am now using 14" X 3" x 1/2" of memory foam in the shoulder padding. soooooo comfy. I've also acquired some tools that allow me to make the adjustable kind. all are still totally reversible. Plans ahead to make a black denim one, and I found a cool leather skirt for $1 at the goodwill the other day, featuring a whole bunch of really glove-soft black pigskin? maybe lamb? it's buttery. Probably dress that up somehow for the Glaminator


                          • #58
                            Are all sanding sealers clear, or is that something to specifically look for? In the latest session with the Kat-o-Caster body, I've left it with the grain still showing and I like it, but in the future if I get another guitar like it, I'd like to have the finish smooth.

                            On the lighting, how long has it been since you bought fluorescent bulbs? There are some great ones that've come out in the past 10 years. Sure, you can still buy the old, dingy yellow light ones that kill any creativity, but they have bulbs on the other end of the spectrum and even full spectrum bulbs. I like your idea of a mood light for the recessed spot light by your guitars. They make LED bulbs that screw into standard sockets that change colour, and there are some that are programmable with remote controls where you can change the colour at your whim. Get with the 2010s, man!


                            • #59
                              no I don't believe all SSs are clear. According to what I've seen on refin threads grain filler/shellac is a good idea before the sanding sealer on raw wood.
                              If you are painting, you can just use primer, and sand that down.

                              Wow, I need to check into those LEDs - that sounds pretty funky... for the bedroom ;-)


                              • #60
                                If you are painting, you can just use primer, and sand that down.

                                True for the most part. But if you're painting an open grain wood like, say, mahogany you still need to grain fill and S&S. If you don't, your bootiful finish will eventually soak in and look like feces.
                                I haven't used Tru Oil yet, but it reportedly can fill the grain all by itself with proper technique. What can be put over Tru Oil?:idk:
                                It's 4am woman make up your mind. EITHER SPIT IT OUT OR SWALLOW IT!!!