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TVvoodoo's Area 52


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  • TVvoodoo's Area 52

    Just changed this thread title to better reflect the variety of gear experiments, failures, victories going on in my shop/man cave and elsewhere. I like to have one thread per forum to document my wide-ranging adventures, helps keep me organized.

    We first start with my ongoing project on a $45 first act, but then, as my mod-jects tend to do, it will jump around to all manner of other stuff. If it's too much for you to handle, might I recommend solitaire, which can by found by going to start/programs/games/solitaire

    first off we begin with a First Act Headstock reshape - a very simple re-branding mod -

    Before you ask "Why bother?" this is just one of many small mods on an ME537 I'm refinishing and rebranding. Before you ask, "Why bother?," once again, I'm doing it partially for just for refinishing practice, partially to explore a new technique with paper rather than cloth - much faster finish line, less cloth saturation levelling time...

    Will it work? Time will tell. But, I thought some modders out there might like to see a very simple and effective headstock reshape, that takes mere minutes, and is pretty foolproof - try it if you may be turned off by the First Act Pompadour headstock shape. I really wasn't personally, I've seen worse, but I wanted to make this one as much my own as I could.

    So, here you go....

    remove neck and at least the top tuners. You can leave the nut in.

    Trace your headstock face down, on some paper. Take that tracing, and transfer the lower inverse curve to the right side, front of the headstock, nixing the bump by repeating the curve down. You'll need to find the centre of the top of the headstock, and measurement from the nut, to the low end edge, to get it even on the other side. I think in the end I might have been a millimetre off with my centre measurement, but no big deal. Hey. $43 dollar guitar.

    glue the paper with regular white glue where it needs to be, and protect the rest of your headstock with a couple layers of masking tape so your jigsaw won't scratch it all to hell.
    You need to put tape on the bump as well, to make sure your saw deck will be as level as possible.

    Go for it....nice and slow- no hurries, no worries. I clamped my rag protected headstock in a vice, making sure the top of the headstock was sitting level, but above the jaw tops.

    remove tape, rub off the glue with a damp rag, give it a little sandpaper to touch up the edges so they match nicely. You should probably seal the end with satin clear, or sealer. I'll be painting and clearing mine.

    There you go - easy, peasy. Suggests a crown, and doesn't look to bad with the rest of the body shape, in my opinion.

  • #2
    nearly a hunnerd views, not one comment. well farg you all! She's all cleared. waiting for it to cure before the burst.

    I was going to attempt a chrome outer burst, but after much research on the matter, that is not the direction forward.
    Digi mockup of the new directon, (without matching headstock). This week we shall burst the neck.

    Also considering a wrap bridge. But how do you ground one of them thingies? Maybe I need to get some Loooooong bits.


    • #3
      As I mentioned in this thread, or a similar one somewhere else... The headstock is now covered in the metallic gift wrap. I used about 4-5 parts weldbond, to one part water and painted the sheet, then laid it on the headstock. Probably easier to do with a small piece, but it worked WAY better.

      Baby sat it for about 20 min, to make sure no bubbles came up, Let it dry overnight
      Then the next day I laid on about 10 coats of clear on just the headstock face and sides to seal in the paper. Let that dry for a couple days.

      Yesterday was a day I shall remember forever more. Kind of a rite of passage for guitar refinishers, I expect. I attempted my very first po' boy's burst based on info I found on, I dunno, maybe project guitar forums. I never saw much on how to do a neck burst, but I figured I'd just modify body bursting methods for the neck, by raising a mask off the area, and spraying down at an angle.

      Well, I think I had two problems. Number one, I decided to used the black enamel that was on hand, in the workshop, some cheap no-name thing, and the spray tip turned out pretty terrible compared to some others I have tried. Number two, I surely did not mask off the area as closely as I should have. I used the push pin method, but also wanted to secure them with a bit of gaffer tape, so I had even more height than normal.

      The result was a dismal failure that I didn't even bother to take a photo of. Number one, the burst went too far in, and nearly obscured the glam wrap, number two, there were way to many larger paint specs. Anyone want to know the name of this particular style,
      I call it the Failburst :grin:

      So first burst applied...

      First burst de-applied! I got some thinking to do. While I was thinking, I figured I need to end the weekend on some kind of a positive note. So,

      Well it's not DARK DARK like Mark Morton's favourite colour, the minwax ebony is a definite improvement. That was coatings, thrice.

      So, we shall soldier on. But, it happens to be TVvoodoo's birthday this Friday!
      Any ideas what I should ask for? Other than a nice bottle of scotch? I have one. :tumble:


      • #4
        This morning I got the air compressor and air brush broke in. After watching dozens of tuturials online from various talent airbrush artists I felt I was ready. I also did a ton of research on thinners and found out how to properly decant paint from a spray bomb. This provides you with a relatively inexpensive form of airbrush paint, especially when compared to what the real airbrush paint manus want.

        Then I undertook a bit of practice on the back of a chunk of drywall - this took me a whole three minutes. If you look close, those with very sharp eyes might be able to tell. :grin:

        Then we get down to work. No stupid paint shield masks, no dicking around.


        While my gun seems to be a bit intermittent, (probably my choice of compressor), it is 1000X better than rattle canning such kinds of things IMO. Imagine you have a teeny tiny rattle can that you can control. Takes awhile. But that is good. One bad hit on a regular can and the whole project is mucked. I would never advise anyone try a burst with a rattle can when these little brushes are only $15-20. That's my final answer.

        I also did the headstock burst but forgot to take a photo. As far as pics during the process, it's a bit involved so having a camera there, and stopping to take pics would be tough. I might try that when I go at the body in a couple of days.

        For my first try, I am quite pleased. There is a tiny bit of overspray that mineral spirits will pick up nice, and it's not near a perfect burst, but whatever - this whole project is an experiment and a practice round. While I probably won't be earning any extra cash painting naked warrior/sorceresses on the side of my buddy's boogie van anytime soon, airbrushing a guitar gets a huge double thumbs up from me.


        • #5


          • #6
            Looking good!
            "Does whatever a Spider-pig does!"


            • #7
              Are you ready for more adventures with my new toy? It's a drama, it's a comedy, it's an epic adventure into the unknown....

              I'm a bursting freak today. So excited about this painting tool. So I head out to the paint shop/wood shed after supper to do a little more. I look up to the shelf where I stored my leftover paint this morning when after I drained the can. WTF??? It's gone! Then, I see the drippage...

              This can't be good. Luckily due to the way the siding laps, it didn't go through the outside...
              Check this!

              I got the idea to store airbrushing paints in larger pill bottles from the internetz. Not this kind of paint apparently. :grin: total solvent meltdown. That was all I had left from that old bomb.

              Luckily, I had another bomb of black krylon standing by... Guess we better decant a little more if we want to keep a-going...

              You'll note I made the switch to a GLASS baby food jar... I ain't the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I do ok. All loaded and ready to go...

              Just so you know, seems to me a fella can get about three and a little more baby food jars of paint out of your typical krylon bomb. To do all that I did here tonight, took about one and a half jars full, or about half a can.

              started on the back, because I wanted to practice more, before I went after the front... I'd already used up about half a jar by this point, and that's just going around to about 1/4-1/2 inches in.

              I started from the edge moving inwards, but for technique, after a while I found what seemed to work pretty well for me, was to cut in with make my faded burst line, then move back towards the edge of the guitar, as the safety zone. Then go around the edge, and move back in towards the burst line. YMMV. This is a pretty long process. I was working with a spray width max about the size of a dime, and when you first go over, it's so faint, you can hardly tell you did anything. Took about four or five passes to get to black.

              That's not to say there were not challenges to overcome. I kept finding myself wanting to shake the brush lightly, (unnecessarily so), like you might do with a rattle can, (and you're not supposed to do that either). One time I shook, and I had some paint spill out of a little eye-hole in the top of the paint bottle - oops... Don't Do That!

              Took some mineral spirits to it, tried to finicky-fix it, then ended up just wiping most of the bad off and starting again on the whole top back corner...

              Sheesh! The paint wiped off pretty easy while it was still relatively uncured, and due to the finesse of the airbrush, it wasn't all that hard to re-blend it in with the stuff that was still good.

              I did have to stop a few times to clean the nozzle. After a while paint builds up in the tip, and begins to affect the spray in a bad way - I found removing the paint bottle, and just putting the end of the brush into a container of thinner and spraying air so it bubbled a lot cleaned it the tip pretty OK.

              So here's the results of about an hour and a half, earlier this evening...

              Back burst...

              Front burst...

              Not too shabby. There is a lot of powdery overspray residue still on even in these pics. It's not really sticking to the finish, about 90% of it just rubs off by hand. I figured I'd wait until it cured before I took a rag, or maybe some steel wool to it, to get rid of all that gritty bumpage. We'll be going slow on that, don't want to take anymore steps backwards. Now, I'm contemplating another coat, or just clear right over it, once I get it cleaned up. I'll probably muck it a bit, cleaning it, and it will give me a chance to get an even smoother graduation - we shall see.


              • #8
                I ain't never seen anything like that. Many here @ DIY will tell you that I'm in to unique. You'll have something unlike anything else. IMO that's what DIY is all about.


                • #9
                  I ain't never seen anything like that. Many here @ DIY will tell you that I'm in to unique. You'll have something unlike anything else. IMO that's what DIY is all about.

                  That's the plan. I can sincerely say I don't like off the rack, so to speak, but I do own some 'lectrics that are about as classic "off the rack" as it gets. But you know, sometimes a classic... is a classic.


                  • #10

                    I agree. Here's an example of what I've done. I think it's a genetic trait with some of us DIY'ers. My father is still just as bad and he turns 84 this year. And don't even get me started on pack rat syndrome a.k.a. PRS.


                    • #11
                      ^ I like that look - would be even hotter with a maple neck


                      • #12
                        ^ I like that look - would be even hotter with a maple neck

                        I can't stand maple fretboards. I've since put white knobs and switch tip on. The blue was just overkill


                        • #13
                          That's the plan. I can sincerely say I don't like off the rack, so to speak, but I do own some 'lectrics that are about as classic "off the rack" as it gets. But you know, sometimes a classic... is a classic.

                          Okay, I just need your address and your work hours.


                          • #14
                            Har! Unfortunately for you, (and me) I am self-enslaved, so I work from my home office. ;-)


                            • #15
                              So how was your birthday?

                              I don't know if it's in this thread or your thread on this guitar on another board, but I was thinking about this while working on my guitar last night. In particular, it was about the overspray you had - the splatters, or what I call spittle. I remember from my days of hanging out with airbrush artists I knew from a few radio control boards that the spittle dust is caused by holding the brush too far from the surface, too low of pressure, clogged nozzle, too thick of paint, too wide of spray pattern, or any combination of those. *Usually*, it's from holding the brush too far back. You can tell that by it being really small dust-like particles that brush off. The spittle stuff is more like splatter. That's caused by a clogging nozzle and/or too-thick of paint. Amazingly, I still retain a lot of information I learned from those guys, in spite of still having not used an airbrush yet. Those who can, do... you know the rest. One of these days, I will. Lil' ol' perfectionist me wants the perfect compressor for this stuff first, and I plan to sell my double-action airbrush for something a bit less fancy.