Members CME Posted November 17, 2016 Members Share Posted November 17, 2016 Hello. It's been a while since I've been around here much, but I definitely trust your opinions. Anyway I've been a long time mac user, but am in the process of switching to windows. For the most part it's been quite smooth sailing. However I realized that DSP Quattro is mac only. It's what I've been using for my CD authoring for a while now. Before that it was Bias Peak. Anyway I don't need too many features. I've been watching some videos trying to figure out which software would work best for me. My main feature request is the ability to take a 60-70 minute stereo audio file, split it into the separate tracks, and burn them into a CD. Most of my work is recording the church services. I normally just export the service as one long audio file and cut it up later. FWIW I have added StudioOne Pro to my collection of Daws. But the project section won't burn a CD for me for some reason. I need to look into that more also. But I wouldn't mind something just for the CD authoring work. So hit me up with any recommendations. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 1001gear Posted November 18, 2016 Members Share Posted November 18, 2016 I've done that with Audacity and a freebie but that's probably no help. This is more like what you mentioned. http://www.harmonycentral.com/forum/forum/Forums_General/acapella-50/31856936-best-cd-writing-software?p=31858722#post31858722 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 I've used Sound Forge and CD Architect for years. Steinberg's Wavelab also has really good CD authoring tools built in. As far as a stand-alone, I'm not really sure what's out there for the PC today... CD Architect used to be available as a stand-alone (or add-on), but it's included in Sound Forge now - at least the PC version. I'm not sure if the Mac version includes it or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members CME Posted November 21, 2016 Author Members Share Posted November 21, 2016 Thanks for the tips. I seem to have a bit of a hardware issue also. I downloaded the demo of Wavelab, and for some reason it won't finish a burn either. Right now I'm demoing Hofa's CD&DDP burner software. It does what I need it to right now, but is pretty basic. I guess worse come to worse I could make the DDP in StudioOne and then burn it with Hofa. I also downloaded the Sound Forge demo, but am waiting for the Hofa demo to expire before trying it. I did like what I saw in Wavelab. Just need it to actually burn the CD. Thanks for the tips. I'll let you know what I decide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 1001gear Posted November 22, 2016 Members Share Posted November 22, 2016 What kind of OS/burner/media? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members CME Posted November 22, 2016 Author Members Share Posted November 22, 2016 I'm on Windows 10 Pro 64-bit, external Pioneer BDR-XD05s, Staples Generic CD-R's. Not the best Media I know, but all that's readily available around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 1001gear Posted November 22, 2016 Members Share Posted November 22, 2016 Imma take a wild guess and say it's the media. Tried Amazon for CDs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 1001gear Posted November 22, 2016 Members Share Posted November 22, 2016 What file format and what burn settings are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members CME Posted January 12, 2017 Author Members Share Posted January 12, 2017 After much experimentation I finally found the culprit. USB 3.0. My laptop only has USB 3.0 ports (well and a TB3 port). So I had added a USB 3.0 hub, and plugged the drive directly into that. This was specially handy since USB 3.0 can power the drive with only one port (the drive came with a cable what has two connectors on the end that plugs into the computer for extra juice). Turns out if I plug a USB 2.0 hub into my 3.0 hub and then the drive into the 2.0 hub, it works. And yes I tried plugging both connectors to make sure it wasn't a power issue. Hopefully someday this will get worked out and I can plug it directly back into USB 3.0, but until then, I have lived and learned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 1001gear Posted January 13, 2017 Members Share Posted January 13, 2017 Shot in the dark. Might be something called UASP. It's a transfer protocol that among other things lets USB work more efficiently; faster in this case. It was implemented as of Win 8 and is standard on Win 10. Your drive probably doesn't speak UASP and was unable to burn anything. Win 10 may provide a way to disable UASP. If it doesn't, new DVD drives are pretty cheap. Maybe try that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members CME Posted January 16, 2017 Author Members Share Posted January 16, 2017 Could be. I can't find anything about whether it supports UASP or not, but I bought it because it was also a Blu-Ray burner and I need that for archival purposes. And while not expensive per se, there not inexpensive either IMO, having a second external optical drive is just getting a bit carried way IMO. haha. Anyway their site does say it's compatible with Windows 10. I've made sure it's got the most up to date firmware. And it works with some software. Just not all software. Unless I use it via the USB 2.0 hub. So it does have something to do with the USB 3.0/UASP support. I would just think that at this point these things should be pretty much plug-n-play. Anyway I have it working. I'll check every once in a while and see if it begins to work over USB 3.0. Thanks again for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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