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Anybody heard about the anti-cables?


Esoteric7

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That's droll.

 

$80 for an 8 foot 12 gauge interconnect with speaker "spades" on the ends marketed as an "alternative" to bogus, overpriced "miracle" cable.

 

I suppose it beats $800 for 8 feet -- or $8000.

 

 

Audiophiles... it just keeps getting harder and harder to take these airheads seriously. [uPDATE: Now, I apologize for that. There are a lot of very knowledgeable, down-to-earth audiophiles. Mea culpa.]

 

 

 

Here's a LONG thread on that repackager...

 

http://gearslutz.com/board/showthread.php?t=98209&highlight=cables

 

 

 

HERE is an item that ought to tip anyone with half a brain off to just how much "science" there is to this company's marketing -- it's a "cable-lifter" to keep your carpets and wooden floors from interfering with the electrical signals going to your loudspeakers:

 

isolators_straight.jpg

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There was a thread on cables over at GearSlutz that had THE post on "cable reality" as far as I was concerned... I searched a bit for it, but I couldn't find it, I'm afraid.

 

The author pointed out the realities of the cable supply business -- there are only a handful of actual wire makers anywhere and the "high grade" cables repackaged by many audiophile type suppliers typically cost a tiny, tiny fraction of what is ultimately charged to gullible audiophiles --and, heaven forfend, recording "engineers."

 

 

Converter design legend Dan Lavry had some PITHY things to say about "magical" claims for "high-end" cabling in this thread at his old PSW forum:

 

http://recforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/m/160008/15450/?srch=cable#msg_160008

 

The thread starts off with an absurd set of claims quoted from a digital interconnect "supplier" (who shows up to try to defend his claims -- utterly hilarious) but winds through a lot of cable issues...

 

 

Of course, it's not just the "little guys" who pull this kind of hooey... Monster marks many of their speaker interconnects with arrows purportedly showing the "direction" of signal flow... Wotta JOKE those people are! (And, in my personal experience, the handful of Monster cables I've owned have been among the least reliable. I have RADIO SHACK cables that FAR outlasted the unreliable Monster cables I used them next to... in fact, the Radio Shack cables still work great and the Monsters are mostly long gone. I still won't buy Radio Shack cable except in a dire emergency, mind you. But I'll buy it over MONSTER. Think about that.)

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Originally posted by Esoteric7

Go DIAF spammer.??


cool ur avatar!
:eek:

 

Profile For Esoteric7

Date Registered: 12-28-2006

 

You registered this account today, and the first thing you do is post a spam link for some snake-oil cables - therefore you are a spammer. Also... You're barking up the wrong tree on this forum - most of us know better.

 

DIAF == Die In A Fire

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man u are nuts! why should I be a spammer?

What do u want me to do?

to don't post anything?

i just wanted to know what people think about them...not to buy them or not!!! I did not even tried them!!!!!

be as blue2blue! he contribute with a great answer..no like you that you just talk bull.

 

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Originally posted by Esoteric7

So basicly that means that any audio cable that the gauge size is ok would sound the same?

Funny thing about that. They DON'T all sound the same. At least I've heard some differences with mic cables that I can't explain. But differences are pretty small and are likely to be overshadowed easily by other things (like the quality of the music you're recording).

 

I like cables (assemblies) that have good quality connectors, that are reasonable for the application. For example, for mic cables, I'd want adequate shielding but good flexibility. For a fixed installation, I'd go for foil shielding because it doesn't have to flex and it's a better shield than any flexible braid (and you never know what you're going to find in walls that you might want to shield against). It used to be that ready-built mic cables had Switchcraft XLR connectors because that's all there were. Then there were Neutriks, and there have been dozens of Neutriks over the years, some better than Switchcraft, some far worse. I still prefer Switchcraft because I know what I'm getting.

 

The last thing I'll worry about is how it sounds. I've never heard one that worked at all that I felt had to go because it didn't sound good. But I suppose it's a good thing that there are audiophile cables that people can spend too much money on. There's always something they can buy to make their system sound better in their mind.

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Originally posted by MikeRivers

Funny thing about that. They DON'T all sound the same. At least I've heard some differences with mic cables that I can't explain. But differences are pretty small and are likely to be overshadowed easily by other things (like the quality of the music you're recording).


I like cables (assemblies) that have good quality connectors, that are reasonable for the application. For example, for mic cables, I'd want adequate shielding but good flexibility. For a fixed installation, I'd go for foil shielding because it doesn't have to flex and it's a better shield than any flexible braid (and you never know what you're going to find in walls that you might want to shield against). It used to be that ready-built mic cables had Switchcraft XLR connectors because that's all there were. Then there were Neutriks, and there have been dozens of Neutriks over the years, some better than Switchcraft, some far worse. I still prefer Switchcraft because I know what I'm getting.


The last thing I'll worry about is how it sounds. I've never heard one that worked at all that I felt had to go because it didn't sound good. But I suppose it's a good thing that there are audiophile cables that people can spend too much money on. There's always something they can buy to make their system sound better in their mind.

 

 

The things in cable construction that affect the sound are not things you see in ads.

 

The basic 3 factors are capacitance per foot, DC resistance, and wire stranding.

 

DC resistance is probably most important, since it controls how much of the wattage the amp puts out actually reaches the speaker terminals. If a given wire is 1 Ohm and the speaker is 4 Ohms, then only 64% of the power (80% of the voltage) is delivered to the speaker.

 

The wire stranding: more strands of finer wire is generally better from a durability standpoint. It is also more flexible.

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Originally posted by Esoteric7

man u are nuts! why should I be a spammer?

What do u want me to do?

to don't post anything?

i just wanted to know what people think about them...not to buy them or not!!! I did not even tried them!!!!!

be as blue2blue! he contribute with a great answer..no like you that you just talk bull.

 

No pal, you're full of bull. You really should go back to "street-teamer school" and study the basics - the most important thing is to blend into the community that you are trying to spam before you start your speil. You blew it this time, but better luck in the future.

 

 

Not.

 

 

:freak:

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Originally posted by kurfu

No pal, You really should go back to "street-teamer school" and study the basics - the most important thing is to blend into the community that you are trying to spam



:

 

I think the real and bigger spammer is giving a lesson how to spam!

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Thanks, Philbo!

 

I'd like to add that good connectors, well-soldered will contribute to reliability. And, though it sounds like work, clean connectors and jacks are very important, as well.

 

 

Esoteric7, kurfu is just being ever-vigilant (or maybe over-vigilant, just a little :D )...

 

A lot of times when you see someone here who just registered and the first thing they post about is a company or vendor it's someone doing a little guerilla marketing.

 

So you probably just looked like an "enemie bogie" on his screen... ;)

 

 

I've done the same thing. You just caught me on a good day. ;)

 

 

Welcome to our little home away from home!

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Thanks guys for your positive and helpul answers!!

how much do you think will vary the quality of a standard economic cable agains a 'expensive one'.

 

I am just curious about it....because that is a subjet that is very hard to measure o difference! :

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Funny thing about that. They DON'T all sound the same. At least I've heard some differences with mic cables that I can't explain. But differences are pretty small and are likely to be overshadowed easily by other things (like the quality of the music you're recording).

 

There is a difference in cable quality - I agree completely with Mike and philbo. Cable resistance, capacitance, construction quality (soldering, the quality of the connectors used, etc) and shielding can all make an audible difference. But I don't buy into the whole high-end, "audiophile", snake-oil approach to audio. A good Belden, Canare or Mogami cable with Neutrik or Switchcraft connectors is good enough for me - and a lot less expensive. Heck, if a lot of audiophiles could sneak into the studios where some of their favorite music was recorded and have a look at the cables that were used in the process of recording and processing their treasured recordings, they'd have a heart attack! ;):D

 

If you can't hear the difference a statistically significant percentage of the time (IMO, better than 75% of the time) in double blind and carefully controlled listening tests, I call "blarney" on the claims. And either my ears suck, or their ears are MUCH better than mine, but I can't hear a difference between a well made Mogami / Neutrik cable and some $800 / foot "wondercable", so I'm not interested in paying for them.

 

IOW, test things under controlled listening conditions, then trust your ears - not what everyone else tells you. :)

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Originally posted by blue2blue


Esoteric7, kurfu is just being ever-vigilant (or maybe
over
-vigilant, just a little
:D
)...


 

 

Actually, I'm just answering his questions concerning my initial reaction, and providing some helpful advice for the next marketing campaign that is assigned to work.

 

:D

 

/This bulldog is off-duty now... :wave:

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Originally posted by Esoteric7

cool Phil! thanks!


I always wonder if you compare for example a cable like a Mogamy , Moster cable and a Hosa do you think you would hear a difference?

 

 

I've got cables from all three of those companies in my studio right now. Remember, companies frequently make different types of cables, and often at different price points and quality levels, so I don't think it's fair to make sweeping generalizations based solely on "brand names" without speaking about specific products. Having said that, some brands seem to be more consistent across their product lines than others. I've had poor luck with Monster cables in general - mostly reliability / quality issues, and therefore they're not the first brand I'd personally consider for future purchases based on my past experiences.... OTOH, that doesn't mean that some of their other products might not be good.

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Pricing:


* Jumper set (Spade) = $25

* Jumper set (Banana) = $45

* 1 foot Stereo set = $25

* 2 foot Stereo set = $25

* 3 foot Stereo set = $30

* 4 foot Stereo set = $40

* 5 foot Stereo set = $50

* 6 foot Stereo set = $60

* 7 foot Stereo set = $70

* 8 foot Stereo set = $80

* etc...


We will make a Stereo pair set of them

any length you need at $10/foot

($25 minimum).


We have customers running them as long as 40 feet with excellent results.

 

Good Lord!!!!!

 

TECHNICAL:


The Name:

Since these simple red wires virtually eliminate the most common problems of typical speaker cables (usual sonic signatures, hyperbole, and high prices) they have been named the "Anti-Cables"


Handling:

The Anti-Cables are flexible enough to loop around a Magic Marker size pen, yet stiff enough to hold that shape after you let go. Because of their unique malleability, they can be drawn and formed into virtually and shape you need, but don't expect them to lie flat on the floor like typical snake sized cables; it's not in their "Anti-Cable" nature. This is a good thing, as like any other cable, they might even sound better when kept from lying flat on the floor or carpet.
Huh? And what, pray tell, does the ability to be bent and maintain that shape have anything to do with conductability, particularly when multi-strand conductors are more efficient than a solid conductor? And, "might" sound better? What the hell? That's a reason to buy these cables? They might sound better?


The Difference

The Anti-Cable wire is made of one solid piece of highly annealed, super long drawn, Continuously Cast Oxygen Free Copper. They might look skinny, but that is because the insulation (dielectric material) is a very thin red coating instead of the typical thick plastic insulation. They are actually a heavy 12 gauge wire, even thought they look much smaller.
Is it not fact that multiple small wires in a conductor are more efficient and transfer more energy with less loss than a solid cable? Is this difference then a detriment to better quality?


We believe the Anti-Cables are sonically transparent and neutral because they virtually eliminate the most common source that give speaker cable their sonic signature, the plastic dielectric material. Beyond the extremely thin red coating, there is nothing left but air, and air is a near ideal insulation dielectric because it causes virtually no dielectric effect! Air is also why break-in time is not so nasty sounding with the Anti-Cables. This is because "break-in" is actually the bad sounding plastic dielectric material, which simply sounds less bad with time. Since the Anti-Cables have much less dielectric material, the break-in period is easier to get through. If you have ever experienced a typical speaker cable breaking-in, you understand how much the dielectric material affects the sound. Again, it gets better with time, but the dielectric effect will never fully go away (unless you mostly remove it, like the Anti-Cables).
This last contradicts the the idea that air is the perfect insulation and the dielectric material causes the bad "break-in' sound. If air causes less sound deterioration the normal cable with strands and air between them and the insulation would be better than the direct contact insulation of these cables.


Here is some text from AudioQuest's Cable Theory web pages:


"The problem is that any insulating material next to a conductor acts like a capacitor which stores and later releases energy. This is true of circuit board materials, cables, resistors and of course capacitors. The ideal wire is one with no insulation except for air."


Although "air" is not so good, since the copper will quickly oxidize. The thin red coating on the Anti-Cable wire is the best solution: Very very little insulating material, and air tight!!!


Doesn't it seem like typical speaker cables have it all wrong?

Lots of insulating material, not air tight, and over priced.
Over priced? These red wire aren't?


The Spades:

We use an industrial grade, solid copper, lightly tinned (to prevent oxidation) spade that is not excessively over sized, yet built for high performance and high reliability. Each Spade is "cold welded" (extreme high pressure crimp) to the copper wire.
Cool! Now I can call my crimped wires "cold welded" because I use a very good crimper that exerts estremely high pressure. And, virtually all the connectors in my box are lightly tinned solid copper. So, I must be buying the best as well.


Managing the run:

As with any audio cables, they tend to sound better when kept a few inches away from everything, including the carpeted floor. The stiffness of the Anti-Cable wires can help you to keep them suspended in the air. Extra long Anti-Cable runs can be better managed using cable isolators. Twisting the (+)&(-) wires together (3-4 full twists per foot) also works well as a free "tweak". As this will turn two separate wires into one twisted pair (easier to manage), and the lower inductance (see specs below) may provide additional top end extension.
They work better when separated but have lower inductance when a twisted pair??? Would you not be more efficient with lower inductance and thus be "better" with a twisted pair, not separated?

 

 

:freak:

 

Must be the cranberry color.

 

I gotta say, if you believe all that hype, do I have a deal for you.

Write me and I'll get you "taken care of".

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This is another closed thread of Electrical Engineer Dan Lavry

who came from the medical equipment and communications field

where digital was established long before digital audio was.

 

http://recforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/t/3979/0/

 

overall construction has more effect on quality of sound through the wires more than anything else, snake oil included.

microphone cables are more susceptible to construction differences than speaker wires.

 

silver vs. copper difference in a 20ft. cable is so minute its actually absurb.

 

Any correct size good ol' belden and good quality connectors like switchcraft or original neutrik(not the taiwan or china types) will give you great results.

 

If snake oil companies really want to sell technological advancement they should sell optical cables, that is the only real advancement in cable design.

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Originally posted by kurfu

Actually, I'm just answering his questions concerning my initial reaction, and providing some helpful advice for the next marketing campaign that is assigned to work.


:D

/This bulldog is off-duty now...
:wave:

 

It's deeply reassuring to know I'm not absolutely the most cynical/wary person here...

 

:D :D :D

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Originally posted by blue2blue

It's deeply reassuring to know I'm not absolutely
the
most cynical/wary person here...


:D
:D
:D

 

I know it's a bit of a cliche' but... the most fantabulous wires, plugs, vintage, warm, whatever... don't mean shiate if your song sucks donkey nuts, now does it?

 

Perspective, my friends.

 

:cool:

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