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Vocal booth, help with insulation etc...


chrisgil

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Just bought a vocal booth which is basically the same as this.

 

http://www.dolphinmusic.co.uk/article/3726-vocalbooth-series-overview-the-silver-series-.html

 

without the window on the door.

 

 

 

Theres no handle so basically a big gap where that should be,

 

 

 

also the window is terrible.

even with the hole where the door is I can hear planes going past, and the slightest noise in my room.

 

 

 

So, what is the best way to get it more sound proof.

I.e. what shall I shove in all the corners, and what shall I put in the hole when I put a handle on it

 

etc.etc....

 

 

 

Cheers

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Seal it. All holes must be airtight. Then if there is no ventilation, ventilate with a long and winding path. Just snake some flex vent tubing longer and windier than you think. Right? Sound is going to lose interest before the air does. :) But putting foam or fiberglass in the corners or anywhere for that matter, won't do anything for your isolation. Seal it up. Then ventilate with insulated, flexible tubing in a long, winding path.

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only thing im concerned about that is selling it on if I ever need to.

and also If i move taking it down.

 

 

Where's the concern? They are supposed to be airtight. If it's not, it can be easily. The only thing hurting its value is its lack of being sealed. Don't do a hack job, do it right. There's no concern. BTW, there is nothing here I'm suggesting that would effect it's ability to be moved. If it has an opening where the handle was, seal it. Is that window really all that bad or is it other breaches? You won't know until you start closing off the openings.

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I didnt expect it to be completely soundproofed, but it is absolutely pathetic.

when you are inside it, you can hear someone clicking there fingers outside it.

 

 

With something 90% sealed you will still be able to hear fingers clicking. The difference between sort of air tight and 100% air tight is huge. And if the glass is just a thin sheet, or even worse a thin sheet of plexi, it will never stop the sound of planes or traffic. Regardless such a product will almost certainly never stop the lower frequencies of such noise. There's just not enough mass to achieve that.

 

Just by way of example, the cross section of a wall in my studio is 13 inches thick, with 2 and 1/2 inches of sheetrock total, 9 inches of insulation, and two complete sets of framing so that the walls in opposing rooms do not even touch each other. The doors are air tight and weigh 300 lbs a piece. The two panes of glass between rooms add up to a solid inch. And if a heavy truck rolls by outside, or an ambulance with the siren on, you can still hear it.

 

You can read about wall ratings here. By the way these assume that the barrier is completely air tight. Mass is what stops the sound... for your box to be effective enough to stop traffic noise or something like that, it would have to weigh something like 1000 lbs.

 

Anyway if you want to seal up all the cracks and see how far it gets you, you should look at latex or silicon caulk. Latex is easier to clean up or remove, while silicon remains more flexible and will stay sealed better if the box shifts and flexes.

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I don't know how the thing goes together... but before you start looking there, what about the this: "Theres no handle so basically a big gap where that should be".

 

What do you mean by big gap? It sounds like you're saying "There's a hole in my souind proof enclosure".

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moving to a missile base was my next option.


Yep theres a big hole where the handle is, but even when I temp fill it in you can hear the sound is coming from all the corners etc..

 

I want that $2.8M one outside of Denver. If I get it, I'll send you a PM.:cool:

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Yep theres a big hole where the handle is, but even when I temp fill it in you can hear the sound is coming from all the corners etc..

 

 

Don't "temp" fill it. Fill it. If you're not going to put a handle on, patch the hole with whatever material is surrounding it. Is it some sort of ply? Patch it with even a slightly oversize ply piece. Use Liquid Nails etc.

 

You seem to be implying that there are gaps where the walls go together? If so, use foam insulating strips. Partially disassemble and put in the strips. Then screw it back together. Seal the holes. All of them except your ventilation.

 

You'll never know if the glass is any good if you've got holes in the thing.

 

You can use a Radio Shack SPL meter with build in mic for this search and destroy. Just point it a the various possible breaches and see if you've got some sound leaking through. Once you got everything sealed up. Point the meter at the glass. The patches. The solid wall. Get close and consistent. Is the glass giving a higher reading? Then plug it. Screw it.

 

But if you do this with the glass first... you are going to be very frustrated.

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An airtight 4'X4'X6'10" vocal booth......?


"Okay, that last one was good, although I think take 32 was the one. Just one more for luck Johnny................. Johnny? JOHNNY!!! {censored}, call 911."

 

 

Airtight, then ventilate. The ventilation is long and winding flex tubing with soft absorbent inside lining.

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no matter what you record in a low ceiling isolation cabin, you have to sit down, or the reflections from the ceiling sound like doodoo




Schnittplatz%20Sprecherkabine.jpg

 

Those ceiling tiles are anything but reflective. Lay fiberglass batting out over the top and they're close to 1.0 Sabine, providing there's space above. That's like an open window. Total and non-reflective. Angelo, if you're getting refections in that room, it's most likely the table, window, or an out-of-picture untreated wall.

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The table has some influnce on the ambience, but isn't the problem. There aren't any tables anymore in the cabins. That was a failure of the cabin designer. I changed that on the first day.

 

When we recorded the first voice-over in the new speaker cabins with the speaker standing, from his head 20 inches to the ceiling, it sounded somewhat strange. The problem was solved after we had the voice-over artist sitting on a chair.

 

I still don't like the sound of those small cabins. The studios with a controlled reflection and great ambience which are quite large and high, sound way better.

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I still don't like the sound of those small cabins. The studios with a controlled reflection and great ambience which are quite large and high, sound way better.

 

 

Absolutely. Regarding the OP's booth. Man, I hate those little things. Unless you have to have isolation due to your local environment, you're always better off in a bigger room that has no refections. For VO I mean.

 

The BBC minimum for VO is something like 1500 cu. ft. That's pretty big. Anything smaller and your room modes are in voice frequency territory.

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Wait a minute! Is this a real vocal booth from the Vocal Booth company? Or is this some knocked-together thing that you got "for a good price on eBay" from someone who had no idea about how to make a sound-tight booth? From your description it appears to have some important parts missing, like a door knob, which probably means that the door seal, if any, isn't working. And the window? Is there double pane glass in it?

 

You might have something that you can build a vocal booth out of easier than building one from scratch, but it sounds like you don't have anything resembling a real vocal booth yet. Get a book on studio construction and learn what works.

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