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  • #16
    I found my part at Mouser.com. $5 for the part, $5 shipping... pretty typical.

    I picked a Cornell-Dublier polypropylene part:

    940C6W1K-F

    Besides the correct capacitance and DC voltage, I selected it for it's lead termination style (axial leads), Ripple Current (Irms = 8.9 Amps), equivalent series resistance (ESR = 6 mOhms), and expected lifetime (60,000 hours). It's size was also appropriate: 1.33" L x 0.8" Diameter (about 1/2 the size of the original).



    If I have to pay double price due to shipping, I want to only buy it once if possible, so this extra checking will hopefully prove worth doing.

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    • #17
      Just FYI in case you do have to replace a multisection cap: some of the vendors who cater to tube enthusiasts still carry a small selection of multisection caps.



      For example:



      http://www.tubesandmore.com/

      http://www.vibroworld.com/
      <div class="signaturecontainer">&quot;There is no best in music.&quot;<br />
      -- Neil Young, 1987<br />
      <br />
      <a href="http://lamkins-guitar.com/" target="_blank">My music pages</a></div>

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      • #18
        Wow... Thanks for the tip! I wish I'd known that when I restored my '63 Fender Vibrolux amp...

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        • #19
          You're welcome. :-)



          Sometimes all it takes is knowing the appropriate term for which to Google... ;-)
          <div class="signaturecontainer">&quot;There is no best in music.&quot;<br />
          -- Neil Young, 1987<br />
          <br />
          <a href="http://lamkins-guitar.com/" target="_blank">My music pages</a></div>

          Comment


          • #20
            Well, I got the new cap installed, and everything looks good. I need to let the thing run for at least an hour before calibration and balancing (Gates recommended all day, but that's a little bit much). So this will be a weekend task...



            Hopefully, everything will go good on that. After than I can try running some audio through it & see what it sounds like!

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            • #21
              Yeah,hook it to the chassis. And congratulations on getting it running! When you can, post some photos of it

              Comment


              • Danielaustin
                Danielaustin commented
                Editing a comment

                so I let the unit run over night and I followed the instructions to balance it but either im doing it incorrectly or somethings different because of the caps I put in... anyways it says to put a volt meter on the amplifer output. I assume that means on the output of the unit, on the positive and negitive leads on the back. so thats what I did, but the meter always reads zero or very very close to zero no matter what I do. sometimes it changes a (very) little when I turn some of the knobs or R67 but it always goes back to zero or very close... I also tried putting the meter between the positive contact or negitive contact and the ground and still either zero or very close to it. The weird part is that the unit sounds really good, I tested it out at work (I run live sound) and everything seemed fine. I ran it through a good 5 hours of use and everything seems to be in order. Could it be because I put in non polar caps? (mostly mallory 150's and a couple orange drops) also I replaced the 5749's in V1 and V2 with a matched pair of sylvania 5749W's I'm not sure what the W indicates but maybe it has something to do with it. oh and here are a couple of pics leveldeviloutside.JPGleveldevilinside.jpg

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