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Peavey T-40 Truss Rod Adjustment Tool ?


P.Bagley

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Just bought a Peavey T-40. Got a great deal from a guy who's wife wanted it out of the closet, the closet where it's sat unplayed for 20 years. Story is that the guy bought it from the original owner who'd had it for 7 or 8 years and never played it.

 

So it's a virtually new bass that is 28 years old. And it looks like it with only a few small nicks and light scratches. Pick guard is warped a little, and the neck is a little more bowed than I like.

Which brings me to the subject of this post - What do I need to adjust the truss rod?

 

Peavey says you need a special tool in the on-line manual to adjust the "torsion bar". I tried my 1/4" sockets and none will reach down into the cavity to grip the nut on the end of the truss rod.

 

So what do you Peavey T-40 owners use to adjust your truss rods?

 

Thanks!

 

-Paul

 

PS: It sounded great last night at practice through my Bassman 10, especially with the pickup phase switch tripped for a '60s tic-tak sound.

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Originally posted by P.Bagley

Just bought a Peavey T-40. Got a great deal from a guy who's wife wanted it out of the closet, the closet where it's sat unplayed for 20 years. Story is that the guy bought it from the original owner who'd had it for 7 or 8 years and never played it.


So it's a virtually new bass that is 28 years old. And it looks like it with only a few small nicks and light scratches. Pick guard is warped a little, and the neck is a little more bowed than I like.

Which brings me to the subject of this post - What do I need to adjust the truss rod?


Peavey says you need a special tool in the on-line manual to adjust the "torsion bar". I tried my 1/4" sockets and none will reach down into the cavity to grip the nut on the end of the truss rod.


So what do you Peavey T-40 owners use to adjust your truss rods?


Thanks!


-Paul


PS: It sounded great last night at practice through my Bassman 10, especially with the pickup phase switch tripped for a '60s tic-tak sound.

 

 

Last I checked, you can still purchase the tool directly from peavey for something like $5. Congratulations on buying the manliest bass ever created.

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Thanks Lug.

 

Manliest? To be honest, it felt a little less manly than my G&L L-5000, and that isn't just the low B string talking. But the tonal variations are _MUCH_ broader than the L-5000. If it had a low B it could be my new main rock bass. For now it will be one of my backup basses.

 

- Paul

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While I typed many also replied.

 

Thanks!

 

Except for J. You are despicable. :D

 

I checked the Peavey site, and there are dealers near by. I'll make a few calls, see if I can get one local, and failing that I'll contact Peavey directly.

 

Thanks again! Except for J.

 

- Paul

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Originally posted by P.Bagley

Thanks Lug.


Manliest? To be honest, it felt a little less manly than my G&L L-5000, and that isn't just the low B string talking. But the tonal variations are _MUCH_ broader than the L-5000. If it had a low B it could be my new main rock bass. For now it will be one of my backup basses.


- Paul

 

I have an L2000 as well, Both weigh an absoulute ton. :D I do have a question for you. Was the main diff in the 2000 and the 5000 just the pups? BTW, I string my T-40 BEAD. :D

 

...adds J to the short list for the Minister of Despicable position :mad:

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Difference between the L-2000 and the L-5000:

 

One more string.

One less pickup, and it's a different shape.

One large metal pickguard.

 

The L-5000 was Leo's first 5 string offering from G&L (1988). The neck is 1-3/4" and the bridge spacing is a little tight. The neck radius is a 7-1/2", just right for me. The pickup (1) is a P-bass-like z-coil in a 3 and 2 configuration. It's a little overwound. Controls are volume and tone. The bass is solid ash, and it's a little heavy. Overall it's a solid bass in a 5 string P-bass style. Simple is good.

 

- Paul

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Originally posted by P.Bagley

Difference between the L-2000 and the L-5000:


One more string.

One less pickup, and it's a different shape.

One large metal pickguard.


The L-5000 was Leo's first 5 string offering from G&L (1988). The neck is 1-3/4" and the bridge spacing is a little tight. The neck radius is a 7-1/2", just right for me. The pickup (1) is a P-bass-like z-coil in a 3 and 2 configuration. It's a little overwound. Controls are volume and tone. The bass is solid ash, and it's a little heavy. Overall it's a solid bass in a 5 string P-bass style. Simple is good.


- Paul

 

Wow, I was confused. Which G&L offered EMG's instead of MFD's? I got the the number six 7-1/2" radiused neck on my L2000. My absolute favorite neck of any bass I've ever owned or played. :D

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Don't feel too sorry for my Bassman 10. It came to me with two trashed speakers, and another two in a box with blown voice coils. I put in two Eminance 10's, a Dayton 10, and an other Eminance Legend 10 guitar speaker. It's what I had at the time. Wired it series-parallel to get 8 ohms.

 

First time I switched on I was sure the speakers were not wired correctly. Silent, dead quiet. Quietest amp I've ever owned. And it works great. The Bassman head has no problem with the low B, the limits were the stock Fender speakers. The Eminance bass 10"s are good to 40, the Dayton lower than that, and the Legent 10" gives a lot of highs. Too much really. The blended sound is pretty good, and no farting at R&R volume down to low D.

 

- Paul

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Lug asked "Which G&L offered EMG's instead of MFD's?"

 

I don't know. I've only had the one G&L bass. I have to say that the G&L MFD z-coil is one hot pickup, and it's a little hard to amplify. I've taken this bass with me amp shopping. If it sounds good through an amp then any other bass will sound good, at least in my limited experience.

 

So what amps have I kept?

Fender M-80 bass.

Fender Bassman 10.

Hartke 5000.

Mesa Boogie Buster 2-10.

 

and the Hartke is for sale, being replaced by the Mesa Boogie.

 

- Paul

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