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Help wiring an ampeg 8x10 from the 70's


thefyn

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Before I leap in, I just need to know what goes where on the top 2 speakers.

 

Whoever owned this cab before me, replaced a speaker (top left) with am eminence 10324a 100watt 32 Ohm Bass Guitar Speaker.

 

The thing is, he wired it directly to the input jack, bypassing all the other speakers.

 

Basically making it a 32 ohm 1x10 cab.

 

At first I was thinking it was done because the other speakers are broken (they look fine physically), but then again if he thinks a 32 ohm 1x10 the size of a fridge is a good idea, I am hoping it is a case of village idiotry.

 

I'm no good at wiring cabs, so I'm hoping all I need is a pair of solderless speaker wires? Or do I need just one?

 

Presuming the new speaker is wired the usual way in a 1x10 format, where do I run the pos and negative wires from the left speaker, to the top right remaining pos/neg connectors?

 

I have a Hartke bass head with 8 ohm outputs. I did a quick (risky) test and the new speaker works. I shut it off quick when I realized all the speakers are not firing.

 

 

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You wire them in parallel to get a 4 ohm cabinet, all of the positives together and all of the negatives together. I would first test each speaker by putting a 9V battery across the contacts and watching for the cone to move. There's a good chance they're all blown since they can only handle about 25 watts each. This is why Ampeg specified 2 cabinets for the SVT. Magnet shape has nothing to do with power handling capability.

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You wire them in parallel to get a 4 ohm cabinet, all of the positives together and all of the negatives together. I would first test each speaker by putting a 9V battery across the contacts and watching for the cone to move. There's a good chance they're all blown since they can only handle about 25 watts each. This is why Ampeg specified 2 cabinets for the SVT. Magnet shape has nothing to do with power handling capability.

 

 

So that is how it is for the 7 speakers right? They should already all be hooked up originally in parallel right? In other words, I just have to make sure the top 2 speakers are connected in parallel, and the rest of the speakers wont have to be altered?

 

I'll try the battery thing if I get desperate. It was quite a pain to remove just 2 speakers. The hex bolts are so close to the speaker rims, I can hardly get a tool to lock on one.

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So that is how it is for the 7 speakers right? They should already all be hooked up originally in parallel right? In other words, I just have to make sure the top 2 speakers are connected in parallel, and the rest of the speakers wont have to be altered?


I'll try the battery thing if I get desperate. It was quite a pain to remove just 2 speakers. The hex bolts are so close to the speaker rims, I can hardly get a tool to lock on one.

 

 

Yes, they all should be connected in parallel. You can connect the battery to one of the speakers you removed and they all should move if they're connected. If not you'll need to find out why (disconnected or dead?).

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Yes, they all should be connected in parallel. You can connect the battery to one of the speakers you removed and they all should move if they're connected. If not you'll need to find out why (disconnected or dead?).

 

 

Thanks!

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Update. I did the battery test, and all 7 old speakers popped. So that is a good sign. I'll hook it up tonight and see whats what.

 

It is a fascinating cabinet. The speakers are in 4 sections all boxed off. So it is like playing through four 2x10's all stacked on top of each other.

 

Then the inside is lined with what looks like dacron. Pretty friken neat. I'm also glad that the replacement speaker is a quality one.

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Update. I did the battery test, and all 7 old speakers popped. So that is a good sign. I'll hook it up tonight and see whats what.


It is a fascinating cabinet. The speakers are in 4 sections all boxed off. So it is like playing through four 2x10's all stacked on top of each other.


Then the inside is lined with what looks like dacron. Pretty friken neat. I'm also glad that the replacement speaker is a quality one.

 

One of the best bass cabs made in the history of music... here's my '72 (cab) w/ original CTS 10s...

 

 

 

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